I am after a set of cheap wheels for the 80 just so I can mess about addressing vibrations. My current tyres are too noisy and I don’t want to swap tyres around.
The most important thing is that the offset is either the same as stock (ET0 - no offset) or are negative offset and stick out. I...
My understanding is the bars are the same and are interchangeable. You are right the chassis links are different. Also, the bracket and/or bush that attaches to the axle is larger but again interchangeable.
If you regularly articulate the rear the older pre 94 chassis links won’t be up to the...
You just want someone you can trust to troubleshoot it properly. There isn’t anyone I could recommend in the South. I have a good local mechanic who is also a friend. I trust him to work on my 80 but I’d probably want a diesel specialist for this.
I had white smoke and loss of power come on...
This company might do just the shocks Suspension Ironman For TOYOTA PRADO120-RZJ / VZJ LIFT 45mm 2 inches | eBay - [Leaving Land Cruiser Club]
OFM do stock the Foam Cell Pro just not for the 120. May be worth asking if they could get them for you.
West Coast are who I got my shocks through...
The kit you linked above is just the standard Foam Cell, not the Pro. I have no experience of them.
Shocks and springs do not need to be matched. Your existing springs will be absolutely fine with any brand of shock. All that matters is the shock is the correct length for the amount of lift you...
It’s not your springs that will be giving your that jar/bang when you hit a square edge, it’s the shock compression damping. Switching to a shock with softer damping will make a big difference even with the same springs.
I can comment on OEM but OME are well known to have firm damping giving a ‘sporty’ but often harsh ride. Ironman are an example of a comparable ‘budget’ brand that have much softer damping. I swapped my OME nitro charger shocks for Ironman Foam Cell Pro and the ride was transformed - much...
That’s good to know. Yes I’ve got a 1” body lift. I am basically just removing the lip on the back arches with a little extra profile at the rear to stop the rubbing you can see below. Fronts are being cut 1” and the arch profiled again to address minor rubbing at full stuff. Will help if I want...
He has asked that I don’t post his details just yet as he wants the work to be finished first.
I had several quotes for the work from various body repairers in the area. One example being Tricket Welding who are known for quality work. What they all said though is that the quote isn’t fixed as...
Sunroof doesn’t drain into the rear quarter. The drain hose exits through a bung. My sills are also pretty good. Only rust is at the rear well away from the sunroof drain and likely spread from the rear arch.
Yeh absolutely. I am removing all plastic trim and filling the holes. Also replacing all rubber bungs.
The rear windows are gullwings on mine and they leak! They are coming out and being resealed.
A few extra holes are also being added to facilitate application of wax oil.
Arches being clearanced. This is being done for three reasons. It removes some rust without needing to be rebuilt. It removes the lip that fills with mud and is a rust trap. And it provides clearance for me to run a wider tyre without having to drop my bump stops.
This last one is because the...
Thought I’d document my repairs here. I’ve known for a while I had a few areas of rust but they took a turn for the worst last year. Truck is now having all rust properly repaired. I am also having the arches clearanced so I can run a wider tyre.
Rear lower quarters first.
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