Search results

Thanks Diggerdave - I agree the plastic shield is pretty tough, although mine has a small crack but not broken. Just not sure if my LWB truck is missing any other shields. There are various unused M8 threaded holes on the chassis which suggest maybe there should be other shields, like yours, but...

Both the transmission and the power steering use Dexron II/III. I would thoroughly clean and degrease the whole area, then run the truck for a week or so, so you could be more sure where any fresh leak came from. Then you can be sure what area to focus on. Check your power steering fluid level...

My apologies - I didn’t notice the original post date. The intention is that the pressurised part of the system (everything except the expansion tank) should remain full of fluid at all times. You should only ever see fluid when you open the pressure cap. The expansion tank fluid level will rise...

I don’t know for certain about the SWB version but I expect you are right that it doesn’t have the rear heater. The OP has a 95 so could still be relevant for him.

On the front of my 1999 KZJ95R, I have the standard steel 2-piece shield under the radiator, engine, front diff and steering rack. Then there is small plastic shield to the left of the transmission pan (not quite sure what it shields though???). Should there be any other shields on the underside...

Here is mine, which definitely has a rear heater. The two hoses marked with red ‘x’ go down to the chassis and run along the inside of the RH chassis leg to the rear heater matrix. Originally, there is a combination of rubber hoses and metal pipes, but the pipes rot as MODVRS said, so most...

Hi Tony - I’m glad this worked out easy and cheap for you - and lucky you noticed the leak before the corrosion perforated your filter completely, causing all the oil to be lost when you were driving along. I favour using a rubber/canvas strap wrench or a chain wrench (the type with a 1/2”...

Hopefully, it’s ‘just’ the cables and re-routing the warning light. Will you try a repair to the cables? Genuine cables are about £150 each although pattern ones are about £50 each.

Hi - good to know you’re making progress and found something. There is old thread on here ‘ABS light stays on’, which includes a link to a YouTube video. That shows codes 31 and 32 relate to the ABS sensor cable malfunction (31 is the right front, 32 is the left front). For reading the ABS...

Hello - welcome to the forum. On my 95 series, there is a plate on the bulkhead under the bonnet near the windscreen which contains the codes - see attached. I expect yours has something similar. Sounds like yours has the 1KD-FRV engine. Permanent 4wd, yes, but you can decide to lock the centre...

Well spotted. You could potentially have lost a lot of transmission fluid if you’d not noticed that. I’ll check mine too.

Equally stumped! I can’t think of anything else to check. I believe decel sensors can be checked by raising the rear of the car but you’ll need to search on google about what to procedure to do. If the ABS light has been wired to something else, I suppose you’d have to carefully watch which...

Hello - I don’t know your specific engine but, in general, there are only a few places coolant can go: leakage outside the engine, leakage to other fluids, or out the exhaust. Your mechanic has ruled out external leaks. It could mix with engine oil but that would be obvious by inspecting the...

Yes - That’s exactly what I was thinking. Tony - I would still recommend being sure what the fluid is. If it’s dripping, you can collect it and check. Then you can narrow down your search. That’s how l would start. Good luck with it.

Hi - I don’t know if yours is petrol/diesel or manual/auto. I think the first stage is to know what the fluid is. I suppose there a few general possibilities: 1. Engine oil - tends to be dark in a Diesel engine (unless it’s new). Cleaner in petrol engines. 2. Gearbox oil - manual gbox has a...

Hi - if you have the rear difflock engaged, then the ABS light should come on anyway - ABS is disabled when the rear diff is locked. (I thought Prado’s didn’t have a rear difflock, but had an LSD instead). I listed out other fuses in my previous post, but just from looking through the wiring...

My 95 series box section is 3mm thick and would expect the same on a 120. I did some welding recently. The repair patch went round a corner , so I bought 3mm box section steel (rather than try to bend a long, neat radius) and cut the repair patch from that.

Hello - my doors would not stay open either in the slightest wind or if facing slightly uphill. New door strap checks are ~£44 each from Milners and obviously much more from Toyota. I purchased this repair kit ~6 months ago on eBay for all four doors and am really pleased with it. Doors stay...

I really don’t know. I doubt it was an optional extra but it could have been a change in safety legislation, maybe. For a diesel, there is no vacuum generated by the engine so the vacuum is provided to the brake booster by a separate pump. Perhaps they had to add a switch to warn the driver of a...

Hi - If the pedal is going down, the fluid has to go somewhere. You say it’s braking ok but then the pedal creeps down. If there is no external leak, then it could be an internal leak inside the master cylinder. If so, the fluid will be bypassing the pressure seal and going back to the...

Strange that my 3L diesel should have the switch but not yours. Maybe it was phased in (or out) during the production run...? Mine is November 1999. The Max Ellery manual clearly shows the switch in their photo and wiring diagram (as per my photo) but the Haynes manual does not show it fitted -...

The switch is located on the right side of the auto box a couple of inches above where the dipstick tube enters the transmission pan. The switch can also be called ‘neutral start’ or ‘neutral safety’ switch. If you’re just starting to get involved in the mechanics/electrics of your car, I would...

Hello Steff Welcome to the forum. On the auto box, there is an ‘inhibitor switch’ which prevents the starter circuit from operating in any position other than P and N. From what you describe, your inhibitor switch may be faulty or in need of adjustment. Perhaps an intermittent wiring fault on...

Hello Andre - I don’t know what your previous experience of Landcruisers is or what you are comparing against but they clearly aren’t as quiet as a regular road car. I’ve been spoilt driving Lexus for ~15 years and so I also thought the Landcruiser was pretty noisy when I first got it ~2.5 years...

Just means 7th one down on the list “Drive shaft retaining nut”.

The thing you brace against doesn’t have to be on the truck itself - You could park close to a lamppost (or similar) and use that to pull against. A good ratchet-strap might well do it.

Hi - it’s the connector for the brake vacuum warning switch - see photo of mine. I believe this switch is only fitted to diesel models.

Your mate may have been referring to the thickness of the EP layer that forms on the gear teeth and he would be right that GL5 gives more protection than GL4 for the gear teeth. But those same EP compounds cause erosion of the synchro rings over time. The GL rating only refers to gear protection...

Just after writing my rant, I noticed a 2010 thread “Brake fluid explained”. Says much the same as I did. Have a read there too.

No, it’s not the case. DOT 5.1 starts with a higher dry boiling point than 4 and 3 and degrades more slowly than 4 and 3, so its wet boiling point remains higher too - much higher than 3. I use 4 because it’s perfectly adequate for these vehicles in normal conditions and I change it regularly...

Hi - I wouldn’t agree with the earlier replacement comment - if anything, it’s the opposite way around. The higher number fluids have been specifically developed to improve their initial properties and maintain them for longer. But all these fluids degrade as they absorb moisture over time, so...

Hi - if the manual says GL4 or 5, then Toyota have already determined that either one is acceptable. In my opinion, you made the right choice for your gearbox. The main difference between 4 and 5 is the amount of Extreme Pressure (EP) additives - 5 having a lot more in it than 4. Gearboxes don’t...

Hi - I don’t know about the actuator test. Once the ECU is removed, you can test the earth continuity of the connector lead to a known good earth using a multimeter. Earth will be WB (White Black). I imagine the earth connection inside the ECU will get checked by your electronics guy.

Hi - I don’t have an answer for you. It doesn’t make sense that the ABS light doesn’t come on when you disconnect things, but the light is clearly working when the car starts. I looked on the wiring diagrams for what feeds into and out from the ABS ECU. Perhaps something sparks a thought...

MisterCruiser - where was the siren located? Thanks

Ok - I just found mine. It’s on the side of the A-pillar, up and to the right of the accelerator pedal - see photo. The blue Aisin label on the ABS ECU can just about be seen.

According to the Haynes manual, the “typical location” of the ABS ECU is above the brake pedal - see photo. Mine is a UK spec RHD Colorado 95, but my ABS ECU isn’t there. I am not sure otherwise.

Hi - if you disconnect/remove one of the sensors, you should definitely get an ABS warning light because the sensor won’t detect the ridges/troughs on the ABS ring. I think this is the easiest step to finding out if the system is connected. You’d get the ABS light on if one or more sensors was...

Hello - which kind of surfaces are you driving on? Can you feel that the wheels have locked up during braking? Or maybe a friend could watch from outside? I deliberately provoked my ABS into working when it last snowed but I was surprised that the pulsing felt through the pedal was relatively...

Mine is a 1999 Long wheelbase Auto, no intercooler. I get 22-27mpg. I use AC only when needed - ie hot weather or demisting. OD should be on for normal driving. I’ve added the relevant page from the owners manual.