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Cheapest car is the one you already own.

One d3s is much as another. I would steer towards a decent brand just for longevity sake though.

I think he'll struggle to get one that cheap that isn't rusted to death. Prices are strong right now. Why is he selling the Lexus?

Today's "maintenance" is a trip to Krown to keep things solid underneath. Not much to report so far, they have nice biscuits. Update, treatment finished. He said "there's something wrong, there's no rust!" Pleased with that.

New shocks are on. It rides a lot better, but I'm still getting the judder. It comes and goes without any obvious cause. I'm thinking getting the wheels aligned is probably a good next step?

Fitted as supplied. They are Toyota discs from rough trax.

Today's fun. Rear brakes. I had noticed the pads wearing a little thin, and the discs didn't look too clever either. I checked them with a caliper and got 15.4mm which is below minimum thickness. Offside got really wedged, finally popped it off and found one handbrake pin had popped loose. Bit...

Got it. In a manner of speaking...

The maximum weight for the towing vehicle is 3500 kg as per the normal B licence limitations. The limit for the trailer under the new rules is 3500 kg also (unless the towing vehicle has a maximum train weight, in which case it is the lower of the two). So your maximum train weight is 7000 kg at...

I tried, I couldn't snap it. Any ideas on how to snap it or undo it?

Attempted to change my rear shocks as one had snapped. First one came out easily since the top stud was snapped off already. In a real state. I also pulled a huge amount of dirt out of the top mounting plate. Seems the drain hole was well blocked so it just built up. Felt smooth despite that...

A Google on that part number suggests M10×1.5 which should be easy enough to source also.

Good mot history too.

My take on hammer vs tool is that I'd rather not belt it and cause damage from the shock impact of a hammer. A splitter applies just enough force in the right place.

I imagine many will have already seen this as its been in the news, but it might be relevant to some. From some time this autumn those of us who passed their test after 1997 will be able to tow a trailer up to 3500kg without an additional driving test...

For anyone near Manchester I can recommend him. I'm pretty blown away that there is no filler in that, it's all metal.

Finished article in primer and underseal. Just needs a dab of paint now.

I parked in a multi-story with a1.8m max height which is only a hair over the roof bars. There was a light fitting that had come loose and slipped a bit and it hit the bars. So not much clearance over the posted height!

@BobMurphy I have a few more pics from the welder, not sure if these help? Looks butt welded to me.

I haven't been standing over his shoulder, but there's no overlap on the patch, just fitted to the hole. Patch then butt welded in with a mig.

Not had an mot for two years, so not driveable anyway. Presume it's knackered so he's trying to punt it assuming it's not an outright scam.

More progress today, almost finished until a massive downpour halted things.

The welder, who is a veteran of series land rovers, commented on how good the condition of the chassis is. :)

Progress on this today. Friend recommended a local welder, he's got cracking on it, looking good so far. I sourced a replacement wheel arch from a local panel place which was a bonus, it fits nicely. He's fabricating inner arch and sill patches to go with it. Rust not too extensive, think I...

Mine is a bit fiddly to engage sometimes, especially if the vehicle is not level. But pretty much as described by Beastrider, give it a firm push and it should engage.

Could be that, there's a fair amount of oil around. How much of a pain to fix?

I might take that radiator off your hands, mine is a little tired. Any discount for collection? I think you're Manchester, right?

I have a possible coolant leak from something, but I'm not really sure what. I have oily residue on this which I assume is the atf sump. I would think it's atf, but it looks and smells like oil. Fluid levels are normal, oil is full, atf is full (but not overfull). Not really sure what it...

Got a friend of a friend who is a mobile welder coming over to fix the arch and sill on Wednesday, hopefully that's all it needs for a while.