Maybe my problem is that I had the front wheels off the ground on axle stands and therefore adjusting the steering arm was turning the road wheels rather than the steering wheel?
I have finally got my head around this set up. I had to start from scratch because I was replacing track rod and steering rod ball joints simultaneously. Despite "counting threads" on the old joints and replicating with the new joints, everything was wrong. It is essential to set the steering...
I have had a fluid leak for some months now . Level drops from max to below min over about 2 months. No obvious evidence where its from - is there a common failure point on the system?
Did it - TOP TIP -
I applied a disc cutter on the old relay arm ball joint and cut very close to the thread about half way into the ball joint. The resulting heat close to the thread was enough for me to knock it out with a soft nosed hammer
Has anybody successfully separated the steering damper from the relay arm ball joint? I want to reuse the damper so a forked ball joint separator is no use cos it'll tear the gaiter. Difficult to apply heat for the same reason. Resigned to renewing the damper at this rate unless I use a disc...
So what is the relationship between the track rod and the relay rod.? I assumed wheel alignment was purely down to track rod adjustment.
Also Ill go to intro section as requested
Hi,
I've replaced the ball joints on the relay arm and not sure how to refit/adjust. Its all together but steering wheel is off centre. Presumably with the front wheels off the ground and the clamps loosened I can re centre by twisting the arm with a pair of Stilsons whilst the ends are held...
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