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Wow, I never thought for a minute I'd be up there with Tonytoyota, or even exceed Rodger, but there it is! I've had the 70 for over 23 years now and don't think I'll ever get rid of it. Not the most comfortable car on tarmac but, boy, does it ever come alive when it's off it. Like Andy I've...

I live inside the N+S circulars in London, so I've been in the ULEZ area for a while. Nowadays the cruiser doesn't go out to play as often as it once did. But it still does go out as often as I want it to, it costs me £12.50 every time and I'm proud to flaunt the old girl in front of the...

You learn something new every day! That is indeed a weird one. Who would pay attention to so subtle a brightness change when there are two flashing orange lights close by? I guess maurer's import was not from Japan, but from some left hand drive market which has the same strange lighting...

No light on the matter at all, I'm afraid. I'm completely in the dark on this one. Judging by what you two guys above have said, it sounds like there were different lights for different markets. I have just had to replace the first front upper corner wing light on my UK spec '94 70 series...

Hey Barrie! Great to see you are still running your lovely 76. Super truck. Mickey says Hi too.

Help us out with a little more info here. This could be something to do with the fuel system and not the transmission at all. Or it could be the turbo. Is your engine a 1KZ-T or 1KZ-TE ? If it has the earlier mechanical fuel pump things are a lot simpler, there are no electronic sensors to...

That's the way to do it! You must be pleased as Punch. Tell us what the magic in the diffs is. Or is it that the 70 is lighter than the others.

Hi MM At risk of stating the bleedin' obvious ... 1. Read the colour code off your VIN plate - that's the first group of characters on the second line. On my '94 KZJ70 it's 24V (a two tone code that breaks down into 6M1 and U181). 2. Do a google search on your colour code. You should...

Going back to the OP, perhaps he is after another option. Some years back I busted a UJ on the rear prop shaft due to over enthusiasm in an old quarry in Cornwall. Removed the rear prop, put the car in H4 with hubs engaged (it's an old school PT4WD 70) and drove back to London in front wheel...

I suppose it must accelerate slower, but the KZ is a pokey motor and I really haven't noticed any lack of get up and go. It's certainly not disappointing on 33s. But I have added an intercooler which makes a noticeable difference to low end and mid range torque. Minus 32mm keeps the tyre...

There was a thread on this subject a little while ago. Have a look. Is any info in there useful to you? https://www.landcruiserclub.net/community/threads/rear-recovery-point.155678/

Another late reply, but I'm with Shayne and tim falce on this one. I did exactly the same a few years back, with a similar 3.0l engine to yours. Only I didn't wake up until I had put 5 litres of petrol in, then topped up the tank with diesel. There were no ill effects at all. Theoretically there...

@Bodie Try this for IVSS ivssuk.com

Oh! - Sorry Iwan, I was mistaken. I thought your mods were on a 2L-T, not a 3L. I need to sit up straight and pay attention! Well that gives UKLJ71 another possibility. I agree about all the extra complications of swapping in a 1KZ-TE, give me a mechanical pump every time.

I have read this too, and I have also read the same about the 1KZ engine. However, my own real life experience has been quite different. I had an LJ70 for many years and towed a trailer all over the country with it. I used to really thrash the truck mercilessly and never ever had any problems...

This one says its specifically for the light duty KZJ and LJ 70s. I don't know this make, so can't comment on fit or quality. Give them a ring. https://www.raptor4x4.co.uk/raptor-4x4-tyrex-plastic-snorkel-toyota-land-cruiser-kzj70-lj70-air-intake.html

Since you already have a donor box from an LJ, I wouldn't bother. So long as it fits it will work just fine. It's a good strong gearbox and hard core off-roaders prefer these boxes because of their lower first gear. Personally, I don't consider they are well suited to the characteristics of the...

Hi Bazxhi, I think you are right, the switch on the KZJ gearbox is for the reversing light. That car doesn't have any other gearbox gizmos. Looks like if you want to keep that feature you will just have to put in a manual dash switch for it instead. Like outdoordan said, measure the shaft...

What a horror story, that's painful to hear. Here's another possibility, £146 but shipping costs, taxes and duty are all to go on top...

I'm inclined to agree with your mechanic. On two occasions over the years, when I have had unusual knocking or rattling noises from the engine (not a 1HZ, I admit) getting the injectors overhauled - new nozzles, seals, etc - cured the problem and returned the motor to normal.

Same as above. If the air filter is new then make sure there are no obstructions in the air pipes all the way from intake to manifold. It sounds like not enough air or too much fuel or the timing is way out. My old LJ70 used to make lots of smoke when towing uphill but it was never short of...

Well, I learned something new today. You are quite right. Bleed the furthest brake first and work towards the nearest. Both you and the manual say the same thing.

It's so hard to tell with a rattle. All I can say is that it certainly sounds more rattly than mine at tickover, but the source of the rattle is a mystery to me. I can't say it sounds like the clutch or the release bearing. You say the rattle disappears when you put your foot on the clutch...

Hi Dalky, you have been busy. I am glad to hear that everything went well. I don't know about rust causing the squeak but I do know that rust is a not a good thing to see in your hubs. Water has got in, the seals had gone, so it's good that you have rebuilt the hubs now. With your headlights it...

That's great to hear the job is done and the squeak is gone. That's what it was all about. Now you have a healthy car. Congratulations on a successful result. I'm afraid the struggle you had with stuck and rusted fastenings is part of the fun of owning a truck which is over 25 years old. I'm...

Hi Dalky, Sorry for the delay, I have been away for a few days. It's good to see you are making progress and you have reached the point where rebuilding with new parts has started. Brakes You can use the old pedal method without any damage to the master cylinder, I have done this many times...

I have never seen one stuck in place like that and I can't think what could be holding it on. I can see from your photo there is nothing holding the hub in place, the numbers on the bearing race are visible. Normally a quick wiggle on the disc and the bearing just falls out and you lift off the...

I do approve of a nice bodge, and that one is a cracker. Best I have seen in a long while. I'm sure it will last right round to the next gearbox oil change. Wish I had thought of something so alternative - soft copper out of a battery cut-off switch and a lock nut. It is a prefect solution. I...

You said it! That sounds completely weird to me. Mine is standard UK spec as per the user guide. At least the gauge is working OK, so there's something to be thankful for. Presumably this is a strange quirk of JDM vehicles. But why? Maybe someone else with an import can add their two pence worth.

My Cruiser is the same age and central locking is operated from the driver's door only, like yours. All other doors are individually locked. The fuel gauge stays at the position it was in when the ignition was last turned off and comes live when it is turned on again. It is very heavily damped...

Yes, I have done these jobs a few times and you can do it without any of those SSTs or the spring gauge. Start by using the same thickness shims as you took off. As you will have new bearings that might end up a bit too tight. If so, then put in one or two more thin ones and continue to try...

Hi Dalky, it's a bit busy here today but beginning to quieten down now. That third kit is good because it has gaskets for the f/w hubs as well - just the wrong ones for you. Maybe there is a kit which includes manual f/w hub gaskets. You could also do with new adjusting nuts for the wheel...

The second kit looks better because it includes shims (square washers). These will be needed to adjust the pre-load on the bearings. When properly set up they have to be tight - but only just tight and still easy to turn.

Sorry, Dalky. I think I have told you the wrong thing. When the brake is hard on it locks the disc (Hub) to the caliper (Knuckle) and does not allow any movement in the wheel bearings. So this points to the king pin bearings (swivel bearings) as being worn and not the wheel bearings at all. I...

That's good news, Nice to confirm it. Evidence of a bush mechanic at work there. Using a hammer and cold chisel instead of the caring owner's tender touch with a 54mm socket. I've done it myself, it's hard not to sometimes when you're in a hurry and have them in your hand to bend over the tab...

Nice photos. I don't think I have ever seen a hub so clean and perfectly greased. You can see the slide marks in the grease where the hub engages and disengages. Can't believe anything in there would be squeaking. I would be surprised if you find anything wrong, that looks like a well-maintained...

You are over-worrying about this. Just get your sockets out and have a look. My number one suspect is the brakes, not the f/w hub, and definitely not the diff. I have had to replace several diffs (in other 4x4s, not in Cruisers) and there is no way you could describe the noise a problem diff...

@Dalky, when you get the wheel off, spin the hub and have a look and listen to the brakes, it might not be the free wheeling hub at all. maybe you just have a small stone between the disc and the back plate.

I suppose if you have very cold winters it might be better to use a thin synthetic grease like that bloke in the video used. That looked nice enough to have on toast. However, here in the UK I have used plain old lithium in mine for the last 40 years with no problems at all. If you go wading it...

Since no one else has come up with anything better, I'll chip in with my limited experience here. When I had a round eye LJ70 I ran 31s, like you. On my current KZJ70 the body and chassis are very similar to the earlier LJ but I'm not sure exactly what the differences are in detail. When I put...

Cross that bridge when you come to it. It's unlikely you will need it. Find out first.

Presumably you have manual hubs. The squeaking sound would seem to indicate that something is rubbing and wearing. Maybe the hub just needs greasing. Best thing is to dismantle the passenger side hub and have a look. Here's a video When you remove it from the car, first take off the outer...

Plus one for Vactan, I've been using it for many years. It's excellent stuff. Widely used in the marine world because there aren't many products that are so good against salt water corrosion. I've seen quite a few old Thames sailing barges with all their ironwork protected with Vactan. My boat...

Hydrogen! That's what they used in the Hindenberg, isn't it? So is it now safe to use all of a sudden?