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I’m sure it’s fine. It’s a not a full sized Landcruiser - it’s the lightweight light duty version. If it’s factory fitted I wouldn’t worry. Why they call it a “Landcruiser prado” or “Landcruiser Colorado” is a mystery as it’s an entirely different platform and ethos to the proper full size...

That’d be cheap for prices here - good condition VXs go for AU$50k. Also, “longest running model” - WTF? 1998-2007, the 70 series is 1985-2023, 200 was 2007-2022

Yeah unis would need checking - it’s kind of hard not knowing what the maintenance is like. Eg I’m pretty thorough checking stuff at every service 10k km service or 6 months so I’d be cleaning and repacking wheel bearings as needed along with replacing unis, bushes and steering joints. So if...

They’d have to catastrophically out to cause a misfire I reckon

No worries. By valve set I mean adjusting the inlet and exhaust valve clearances in the head

I’d do compression last - it’s the least likely issue and compression testing is a pain as you need the rare and expensive adapter. Start with air in fuel - the symptoms fit perfectly. Fit a piece of clear fuel line between IP and filter housing, if there’re air bubbles keep moving it back...

200k miles isn’t very high, I wouldn’t get too excited. You didn’t mention transfer case? Brake fluid flush should be every 3 years (maybe even less in damp UK), PS fluid change maybe. Assuming the timing belt/tensioner/idler are up to date, you could also consider a coolant change. And a valve...

They’re not though - the 1FZ has a 5000 rpm redline. Only one I know that has a 4250 redline is 1HZ. Also 1fz tacho doesn’t work with the signal an FT generates (unless you use an expensive converter), but 1HZ does. But did UK even get 1HZs?

They could’ve at least tried to match the paint on the hack job they did on the bullbar. And do FTs really red line at 4250? FTEs redline at 4000. Is it actually a 1HZ cluster?

1FZ doesn’t have O2 sensors from factory, one of the many reasons it uses a heap of fuel. 20 L/100 is about normal for a 1FZ

Sure, the rust I see on UK cars makes me shiver… we get a bit of windscreen surround rust due to frequent glass changes (dirt roads and trucks flicking stones up) but chassis rust is pretty much unheard of with 105s here, unless ex mine or heavy beach use. Same with 80s I guess. Nice - hzj or...

Wouldn’t it be easier and cheaper to get a UK 80 rather than import one? 105 is a hell of a car though - quite a few advantages over 80, although no one ground breaking one. Just what people call a 105 that’s had an FTE put in it. Sadly not a factory item - we need to make what Toyota should...

So this is a prado not a 100 series. Start with the usual checks - eg fuel filter, fuel filter drain oring (if it has one). Could also be pickup sock, stale fuel, sucking air from several potential spots. If generic diesel trouble shooting doesn’t do it post the Q in a vehicle specific spot

They’re doing it a bit in the US, and results can be good. But the work involved is considerable, as are the components. And then you’re going a long way from stock. 105 chassis is very similar to 80 series - the body mounts are different but that’s about it. 100 is totally different, as is...

I agree - reducing flow restriction as much as practical is always wise, 3” are great. I was just trying to help a mate source a good VFM system in the UK - as far as I can tell it’s is as good as it gets

Cool thanks for that, quite an improvement then! Apart from the tank clearance, did it all bolt up and connect nicely?

Anybody used one of these Land Cruiser HDJ100 3" Heavy Duty Full System - Cybox Automotive - [Leaving Land Cruiser Club] ? Just wondering what the build quality is like re fit up. Or can anyone recommend another 3” system for a reasonable price in the UK?

Spot on, good description All plugs throughout the vehicle are available new from Toyota. Part numbers are in the service manual NOT the paths listings

No worries. Yes there’s no doubt sorting the EGR out is of major benefit. To get the most out of the engine it’s really best to remove the intake manifold and thoroughly clean it and the pipe work out - it’ll be major congested with a solid build up of soot/oil paste. You need to remove the one...

Exactly - that’s what they all look like with no extension. And a shorter tray doesn’t help, the cab still looks way too big. It probably makes it even worse in fact, just no

Yeah dual cabs MUST have a chassis extension, but i reckon single cabs are not off the hook. The cab ends up disproportionately big for the wheel base if it’s not extended and looks very out of place. Kind of like one of those weird middle eastern or Japanese short wheelbase 100s… Here’s a...

I’d be doing the valve clearances, but if you’re nervous about the belt maybe you might think about farming that one out. Not that they’re hard, but the belt is much easier. Sounds like you’re doing a bit of a “benchmark” service… in which case they and eye ball all your exhaust manifold studs...

damn, I haven’t been able to find anyone doing single cab 100 kits. CAM do a Patrol one but that’s about it. I guess it’s not an overly complicated panel if you attach the ribs rather than trying to integrate them. Is your turbo a VNT or traditional/waste gate? How much boost your shooting for...

What do you mean by bulk head? Is that a pretuned Unichip or are you going on a dyno? Which turbo have you got? I’ve got a unichip and USB cable arriving in the mail any day

Ok cool, so you’ve got it covered for the moment?

You on Facebook? CAM Fabrications do a rear wall panel for AU$1045. They don’t show a single cab one, might be worth sending them a message and asking if that’s what you’re after and ask about shipping. Not sure what if it’s the sort of thing you can just put in your suitcase… although maybe see...

Cool project, good onya for diving in! 100/105 utes are heaps better than 79s. 79s have the same rated power as HDJ100s anyway and the wagon cans are so much nicer to be in. The post 2016 with their DPFs are total slugs - HDJ100 goes heaps better. Any power mods to the FTE and they go better...

What Jon said, unless yours is a custom build, then it IS a 105… be aware pre and post 02 have the bar sitting at different heights. A 100 (IFS) can be modified to suit. Depending on brand, the bar itself is sometimes the same and only the mounts vary. There are about 500 different ARB bars for...

I think this needs addressing - there is absolutely no analogy between steinbauer and RR. Steinbauer are a away overpriced generic tuned basic module that is no better than all other variants that are the electronic equivalent of turning the fuel screw up on a mechanical pump. They just tell the...

Yeah the 31s are quite a bit of battery… and they only just fit - you have to cut and shut the plastic wafer battery surround, then they only just squeeze in. I don’t think you’ll find anywhere good for a 3rd battery underneath or in the engine bay. In the boot is about the only spot - so...

Yeah the 31s are quite a bit of battery… and they only just fit - you have to cut and shut the plastic wafer battery surround, then they only just squeeze in. I don’t think you’ll find anywhere good for a 3rd battery underneath or in the engine bay. In the boot is about the only spot - so...

I’m sure fuel prices and IC taxes are effecting prices of 100s. And obviously a 3tonne ladder chassis traditional layout 4x4 that’s build for extreme conditions will have a limited market in the UK. However, when you see several dubious examples asking 10k or more - you’d think a good one at 7k...

You can fit a size 31 in each under bonnet battery compartment - look at what’s available in that size, it’s a hell of a lot of battery. EG 1000cca is common - more available, or a shade under with a higher Ah rating. I’m running a single 1000cca as my starter - admittedly I’m in Australia but...

Nice looking repairs. It’s a good feeling once it’s done! Your screen rust doesn’t look too bad though - very similar to mine. If they welded the oversized screw holes up they can be drilled back to 3.2mm for the Toyota rivets, that’s the best way and what I did - was easy as

Do euro models not come with DIN radios? Isn’t it cheaper/easier/better to just swap an aftermarket double DIN head unit in and use the generic spacers that come with them to fill the 1/2” gap either side?

I like how there are two posts with identical titles over a years difference in age running next to each other right now! Anyway, just as an observer… I tried to help my mate sell his HDJ100 recently. Manual GX, no rust, 250k miles, excellent mechanicals, good/reasonable cosmetics for £7.5k. I...

No he bought it like that. However, it’s just a regular double DIN fitment, to Toyota wiring. All Toyota stereo wiring plugs are the same from at least 1998 to current - I’d assume earlier. Although you need a coax to square plug antenna converter from about 2007 onwards I think it is. I...

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Ah ha, I strongly suspect you are the current leading authority world wide in FTE control. I’m guessing you’re referring to ECU born faults?

Don’t think it’d be in the front doors - can’t think of any models that had any need for that. There’s a link to the manual in the other diagram thread

That’s more like it… still - 18 is quite good on LPG. Is it on liquid injection? Here LPG is still pretty common - I’d say 75% of petrol cruises are on gas. They always use more gas than petrol, and have less power. But then no one goes liquid injection normally where real gains can be made...

um, mpg is a unit? It’s how many miles the vehicle drives on one gallon of fuel. There’s nothing vague or arbitrary about it. I guess if it’s a hybrid it only tells half the story, but as a UZJ100 is a full IC vehicle, it’s pretty straightforward. If you meant £/mile you should have said - or...

Go on then - what’s your secret? That’s two to three times better fuel consumption than any other UZJ100 in the world…

I’ve got “air flow circuit malfunction” for 31 (nothing listed for 31(3)) and “intake air temp sensor circuit mafunction” for 24(1). Have no listing for 31. I even looked in the auto trans codes listings which start at 62 for 4sp and 38 for 5sp. What year model is yours? PM me your email and...

V8 or FTE? I’ll look them up. BTW - for bleeding ABS, take it out to a dirt road, drive it like you stole it. Well do a few emergency brakes to activate the ABS, it’ll cycle the air out. Assuming you bled the rest correctly the is as good as teachstreaming it

It’s not superstition or cost saving - it’s just JIS, Japanese Industry Specification. Just like M12 with a 17mm head, M10 with a 14mm head, screws with a head that looks like philips but isn’t (be the close, but for a perfect fit you need JIS screwdrivers). To work on a VW you need every...

No worries. If you can - spend a bit more and get the newest firmware version cable you can. I regret getting the cheapest v1.4 one - it’s ok on a 100 but I can tread 1Vd injectors and can’t program 200 series ECUs

Ah i see, that makes sense. I could see UK conditions being hard on them. Grimbo’s advice is spot on. But for snapped bolts and studs I find stud extractors are worth their weight in sh*t, it’s straight to the MIG with a washer I go - nothing beats it. It was this statement that made me think...

Which brackets and bushes are we talking? ARB is normally OEM quality, never had an issue with their quality. The Japanese bolts on these 4x4s are appropriate to their job - a Toyota grade 11 flange bolt is tougher than a 12.9

Yes, it’s windows only. So you’ll have to have a windows emulator or boot camp if using an intel chipped mac. Best just to grab an old windows laptop - should be free. I’m not too bad with computers but setting up techstream had me beat - had to get a techy to do it who found an address had been...