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Another one bites the road.

Looks like the alternator pulley may be seized to an extent and burning the belts. Or the water pump pulley. I would check both are free.

Mine bedded in very quickly so vital to drive 10 miles or so then retighten if necessary.

It's recommended to change both belts at the same time so there are 2 in the bag. Doubt whether they are "matched" though.

I bought 2 belts for my 80. Not matched. One was lose on the front so I changed them round and had the same result. Conclusion is that the pulleys wear at different rates. Belts are so accurately made these days I don't think matching them is necessary. They stretch anyway. Mine soon bedded in...

What a bargain, a v8 tailgate.

Yes that is coming TP. Pendulum swung too far? Back in the 60's in the pub you could buy a pint of beer, pickled egg and an MOT certificate.

Very few MOT regs are retrospective, thank goodness. If you have the old paperwork you could see a trend in your NOx levels. Perhaps the tester could look online at your old results if no papers.

Thanks Nick. Glad someone's paying attention.

I have computer with Windows 10. Back in the day I could plug my memory card in to the computer and options would come up as to where the pics were to go. Then when clicked on an option the pics would open and I could send them to "My Pictures". Now when I plug in my card nothing happens apart...

Back in 2015 I posted re rebuilding my air con system. Still going strong with still good pressure. I forgot to post a problem I found at that time. Where the pies join there is an o ring which makes the seal. The joint is held together with a bolt which forces two flat surfaces of each joint...

I hear stories of car insurance premiums going down but today "Hastings" renewal for my Golf has increased from £350 to £353. I've never made a claim. What is the flavour of the situation?

I know that too much diesel can cause too hot exhaust valves but could this cause water temperature to increase? The head is cooled by water after all.

I took my crossover pipe and inlet manifold in the bath with very hot water and lots of washing powder (wife asleep) it got them very clean indeed and also the bath.

Be careful not to clean the inlet manifold, or even be tempted to do so. Debris can be sucked in to the combustion chamber and lock a piston(s) leading to severe damage. This happened to someone on here years ago.

The cheapest on ebay as long as it's the same quality as that defined in owners manual. 20 litres at a time.

A quick search on Google reveals ebay seller has both. What quality I don't know but quite cheap.

Stone chip is your answer.

If IRC Chris had a similarly described "vibration". He chased it by looking at lift he had done and looking at the prop shafts. In the end he discovered, I think by accident, that the front diff bearings had failed. After he rebuilt the diff the problem had gone.

I would ask the man whom worked on the prop if he separated the two halves by sliding the splines out. If so he may have put the halves back together with the wrong phasing.

P.S. Are the front axle mounting bushes OK?

An in cabin video might help. I would quadruple check that the rear shoes are backing right off when hand brake is off. What was the very last work done before the problem occurred?

I rebuild 100 year + clock movements. I get people ask if I can have a quick look at their clock which has stopped. Usually because it has never been cleaned. I now refuse. Also, can you have a quick look at my leaking tap. Simple, not really, because every plumbing connection will shear. I refuse.

Years ago I needed a plate in France. Simply went to nearest garage and they printed one off. Perhaps easier to get one abroad. More regs now though I expect.

If the prop splines have been separated it could be the phasing is out. I assume it's not wheel balance?

The blind would cause big resistance in water.

Definitely. Looks like the crank is scrap and perhaps the rod if that has been blued or rubbed. Easiest would be to swap the engine but there is a risk that the engine may be faulty. It's a big job to rebuild. The 12 valve engines were renowned for big end failure.

Everything down there is too heavy to concentrate and do an accurate job on. Also you would have to take the gearbox off to take off the clutch. I would take the head off to see if anything is damaged inside. At least check the valves assembly on number 5 to make sure there is no damage. Might...

That happened to me with a Morris Minor which had a two bladed metal fan. Revving the pants of it racing my friend and there was a terrible bang and a hole appeared in the bonnet. I lost. Terrible vibration until I broke the other blade off and limped home. I had often been under bonnet revving...

Sticking brake shoes on the rear maybe your problem. Terrible juddering. I would slacken them off and remove the drums to make sure the adjusters are not seized and that the shoes are able to go right back. (ie. Pull off the brake drum when the handbrake is released).

And Valium. (Diazepam).

I got a solid stainless steel kitchen knife and hammered it into the gap at right angles. Then I used the hammer to hammer it round the sump thus cutting through the sealer. Of course other implements are available.

Toyota ones are safest but probably most expensive. In my life pattern parts are a NO NO. Been there, done it. I assume you don't want a repeat performance.

Back in the day they used to plaster the leaf springs with grease then cover them with purpose built leathers. Are you going to box the spring hangers, they look a bit weak sideways. Nice looking job and goes well with LC.

Contact "The Car Care Nut". He's on utube. He's ex Toyota and now self employed just working Toyotas. He'll soon tell you whether it's worth changing the head gaskets. I think on the later V8's the heads warp. I think the heads warp leading to leaking gaskets. He has piles of old head gaskets...

There was a little peg inside both mine that had broken off. A little drill and new peg fixed it for good. From memory there is an access hole in the bottom of the housing to remove a screw.

Easiest approach, though not that easy, is to take off the sump and check the play in the bottom ends of the connecting rods. If it is a worn bearing with that amount of noise play will be very noticeable. First drain the oil and check for metal swarf. But sump has to come off whatever.

The non return valve requires "power" to open it. If the spring inside is too strong it may not be letting enough fuel through.

Sounds like it's on one cylinder only. Sounds exactly like a bad big end knock or broken piston. Possibly piston hitting valves/cylinder head as well.

The lift "pump" in the injector pump is fed by atmospheric pressure, (it sucks), roughly 14 psi which would force diesel up to 40 ft? so I guess a NRV would only be necessary to avoid fuel draining back to the tank in the event of an air leak. Nothing to lose by keeping it in. With the LC...

Simple electrics compared with a 2025 car no no death in our cases.

Cars used to be scraped because of too much expensive rust problems. Now it's electrical death.

That is the Scorpion alarm fob. The alarm and immobiliser were factory fitted using a manual supplied with the parts from Scorpion. I have the same system on my '95 and it has been 100% reliable. Disable Alarm :- Unplug 918T box ( located behind and high up of the glove box ) Join the...

Post a picture of the fob. If Scorpion I think I know how to bypass it. OK it's been "disconnected" but it might be worth a try.

I think to degrease the threads on stud and hub really well is important and then wind in tight with double nut on the outer end. i don't think the Toyota build has anything in addition to this.

Where is the exhaust outlet for the vacuum system?

I expect they are paying for flood damage as putting household premiums up in flood risk areas is socially unacceptable.