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i have fitted a 13 row kenlowe rad to my 80. It seems to be a nicely made bit of kit and came with hoses, fittings etc. the man i spoke to there was also very helpful and honest with any advice. he wasnt just trying to sell me the most expensive thing.

glad it went to plan. and you managed to get the spring back onto the tab ok. :thumbup: :thumbup:

mine does that too. has been the same for the last 25,000 miles. didn't change by altering the tps, kickdown cable or by changing the oil (twice). mine also doesnt do it if i shift into 2. i guess its one of the quirks of the box. it can be annoying though, especially at junctions etc.

mine leaked from the corner of the rubber gasket between the head and main body of the pump, when i tried running on veg oil. it looks possible to replace in situ, but involves the fiddly process of disconnecting and re-connecting the throttle/govener spring. not impossible with a bit of...

I fear the moon did not pass by my truck that night! Oh well

I think someone elses bodge has become my headache!! Anyway, i think maybe the whole heat idea is slightly misunderstood. If you can say heat an exposed nut to expand it, then undo it whilst warm that works ok. Nut gets bigger on the bolt. In my case, heating the bolt in the crank expands...

just to add. this explains the funny clonking noise i got when stopping the engine, the continuous slight oil leak that was impossible to find, and the reason i could never quite get my pump timing absolutely spot on!!

i apologise, it is a bolt. the idea of heating it all is as cptsideways says, to expand everything together and then as it cools it "cracks" the bond i.e. rust between the two. to heat the end of the crank to cherry red would knacker the hardening of the crank. anyways, it seems it has been an...

daredn't get the burners in there. thats why we borrowed the induction heater.

well i had a seal delivered to me from toyota today and got the truck over my mates pit ready for an hours work................ mmmmmmm found the pulley was loose, or the keyway worn??? after the hour, much swearing and deliberation, the bolt will not move. well, it move about a 1/4 turn either...

Thanks towpack. Thats handy to know. I'm now hoping the mysterious squeeky noise i get on stopping the engine isn't a loose pulley as i dont need a new crank at the mo!!

Thanks karl. Its defo engine oil. I need to do some investigation but it does look like the crank seal. Unless its an obscure leak from higher up just being flung off the pulley? Its getting worse now quite quickly so i need to sort it.

good day people. i seem to have an ever increasing amount of oil splattering itself around the front of my engine. i therefore am concluding it to be the front crank pulley seal. can anyone please confirm the big nut holding on the pulley is a std RH thread, and if i can remove it as one lump or...

Thanks guys. I will try toyota. They seem to be hard to source as an aftermarket part even though from what ive read on t'internet they do seem quite common. I did look at dissecting one and soldering something in but it looked a complete nightmare re threading the bulb legs. Maybe something to...

hello fellow cruiser nuts. a new year and more little jobs to keep on with. i have done a search, but to no avail so.......... can anyone tell me where to get the little grey based bulbs to go in the dash switches?? i tried autobulbsdirect.co.uk but the ones i ordered were a little too big. same...

if i can help in any way i would be more than pleased. i will post pics when i learn how to. i need to read the sticky in FAQ.

I think they are soldered as i have found no crimps as yet. I dont think they have anything to do with the alarm fitting by toyota uk. I may be wrong though, as the alarm is my next wiring port of call. Then another stereo. If you pm me your email i can fwd some photos.

Does the light come on at all?? Maybe something to do with the dim dip relay or light on relay

The joint was quite literally about an inch or so before the main harness passes through the rubber bulkhead gromet. Between the rubber gromet and the array of wires coming out of the side of the loom, behind the ABS pump. there was one wire feeding from the fuse side and three then passing...

Just a quick update as theres nothing worse than a thread with no conclusion. :doh: I have just spent a good few hours carefully cutting open the loom to expose the wires for better access. I found the elusive joint i was after, about an inch from the bulkhead. Due to some water ingress into...

Still have power through the dome fuse. Have just got some wire piercing probes for my power probe so can hopefully power up at different points along the wires to see if theres a break. Just out of interest does anybody know if the dome fuse powers up anything else? I thought it did the...

well i just couldn't help it and have been outside trying things out. thanks Chris for bringing my attention to the door switches. i have got the n/s/f one working but both rear ones are not functioning and Jon for his descriptions of what to poke where. it has helped me understand the wiring...

thanks for the replies. i definately have a few things to try out now. i will look at all the door switches just to be sure, and look at the earth in the tail gate. i have read somewhere about broken wires going into the tailgate as well. i was wondering where the back door courtesy switch was...

No, the dash warning light doesn't work either. I have no wheel carrier. I hadnt thought about having an earth fault on that side of things as well. I will try fault finding that as well. At least i can get power up to the lights with a temp wire. I really think if i could find the point where...

i did consider that but i should still get +12v at the lights, and they would work in the on position. they will only come on by using a power probe. also. if i leave my lights on the drivers side door switch does work then.

i wonder if someone with better wiring skills than me may be able to help. i'm trying to get to the bottom of the fact that none of my interior lights work, or have done so for the past 4 yrs of ownership. i have a copy of the fsm, with wiring diagram of the interior light circuits, and also...

I got the sealey tools vs1131 to do my pump timing. Easy enough to do once you learn what to remove and what to leave in place. Not sure on the difference between 12v and 24v pumps though.

thanks frank. i'll look at the mountings. i have looked at the exhaust etc and been round tapping things but to no avail. i've heard lorries do it but never my cruiser. maybe i never noticed before but now i have, i tend to listen out for it. must be going mad!!!

hello good people. i wonder if you may shed some light on a small noise my cruiser has started making. simply, when i turn off the key, as the engine comes to a stop it makes a dull metallic "clunk clunk". its almost as if you stick a screwdriver into a toothed cog just as it stops. does anyone...

I have got aircon, although it needs recharging! So a 2nd alternator is not really an option. The picture looks like a similar idea to mine. I cant find anywhere charge currents for such a setup, so thought 40a would be enough, and 10mm cable is good for about 60a. I can always alter this to...

I know this has been done before with split charge systems but..... If i put a battery in the back of my 80, and link it to the drivers side battery in parallel, with a fuse (40a) at each battery, 200a isolator switch, 10mm2 cable on both pos and neg, can anyone see any great problems??? I was...

i had a set of colway muds on my fourtrak, against the advice of.......oooooh.........everybody i know. they were fantastic, and did somewhere in the region of 25,000 miles, were cracking off road, but noisy on it. handled ok, considering the fourtrak is no sports car i didnt drive it like one...

i did adjust those before, but it still used to rattle like hell against the throttle linkage on cold startup, so i just used to pull the hand throttle out to stop it. You could still feel it if you put your hand on the pump though. i did start it again from cold this afternoon and it didn't...

the dot no denotes 4307. the lady at michelin told me at 3yrs on the shelf they scrap them. camskill told me that they have 5 years from manufacture to sell a tyre, which seems a long time to me. this does men they were hanging around for 2 1/2 ish years before i got them. i'm going to look to...

nope. nothing but the occasional wash and wax. also that would surely affect both sidewalls and not just the inner one. when bfg said it was down to ozone weathering, which from reading their website also includes sunlight, it made me laugh. i must have the only landcruiser where the sun shines...

Thanks for the replies. They are 285/65 r18 on atp alloys (8.5 or 9") and have done 3500 miles in the last year since fitting, so haven't even worn the little nibs off yet. Bfg in america said they didn't need to see photos as it would be ozone weathering! Im going to a local tyre place that...

thanks guys. i've spoken to camskill who say because they are not the original size tyre they are considered not fit for purpose, and the alloy wheels may be affecting the way the tyres wear. (although it is the sidewall not the tread) also generally they get a problem with only one, not all...

just to tag onto an old post. i have just removed my acsd. i was doing the pump timing anyway and upon re-assembly found the acsd to be leaking slightly from the shaft, so off it came and set the timing (again)to suit. but when i started the truck up this morning there was a lot more smoke than...

Hi people, I purchased a set of bfg at's for my truck in march last year. The inside walls have started to crack just around the rim. but only on the inside. Bfg say it is ozone weathering and not dangerous! And thats without seeing a photo. Camskill say i have to take them off the rims to...

look at the seal at the bottom of the screen as well, between the rubber and the bodywork above the wipers. mine seemed to be drawing water in by capillary action as it ran down to the bottom corner of the screen and off across the bodywork. some careful sealing there may work. it seems your...

i've just recently started having it quite bad on the drivers side and a bit on the passenger side. i've been through everything, or so i thought. it turns out the sealant around the screen had gone hard and crumbly, so a quick wizz round with some top notch sealant seems to have it sorted. i...

i had the same thought, in that over time everything gets covered in oil (which it did!). i fitted a water trap from a compressor.its the type with a gauze type filter in the oulet side. seems to work very well and will condensate about a couple of egg cups of oil in say 1000 miles. when i had...

my o/s/f bearing went on me one day. i'd been driving around for a few days with an intermittant squealing come grating noise. keep jacking it up and checking but nothing. in the end it tightened up so much it locked the wheel momentarily. i nearly sh£t myself. turns out the tab on the lock...

the majority of bolts into the chassis on mine are m12x 1.25.

i've put new oil in today. 6.5l in total came out overnight with the front up on ramps. i left the gauze for now as i can't get to a clean enough environment to risk taking off the bottom of the auto box. one gust and a handfull of sand, mud dust etc off the back yard and i would be in trouble...

i think they would be ok. when i removed the bolt on pigtails to fit an oem winch, i noticed the winch plate has a pair the same, welded to the bottom in the same position. i was going to fit my spare pair on the back chassis rails when i get time. much better than those silly hooks that let a...

thanks for the heads up about the bolts!!!! could have been fun

i've just dropped the oil out of mine, but also wanted to clean the gauze filter. is is best to clean it the first time i drop the oil just in case i dislodge some crud, or is it best to do a couple of oil changes over the next few weeks, and clean the gauze on the last change? or is it best...

I got a caliper repair kit from the main dealer. had all i needed for caliper slides and also piston seals. my caliper rubbers were torn and twisted and i was having serious trouble with binding brakes and weird goings on. all sorted with new rubbers so i certainly wouldn't advise running...

if you want to tighten head bolts in situ, take them out one at a time, clean and oil the thread (lightly) and put back in and torque up. an old engineer taught me that when i did my daihatsu. better than trying to torque up when dry.