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Probably has a variable displacement compressor, not the old style on/off, so the engine management takes care of the load and keeps the idle stable. One of the complaints of the old compressors was the banging on and off and engine surging.

The genuine ones come apart with the tube method. Aftermarket ones usually need more brutal methods.

If you have a dipstick tube, you can suck it out and measure, replace the same qty. Do it a few times, and then everytime you change engine oil. The filter on older transmissions was just a gauze strainer, and little point in replacing.

And I would imagine the whole thing would fall apart. But then there is no reason for the woodruff key to break really, unless the nut came lose, but you’dd probably know about that fairly quickly.

Doesnt the bottom pully have rubber isolation harmonic thingy? In which vase it may be broken so the inner is turning , but not the outer. Have you checked if the whole lot has stopped turning, or just the outer.

I would suspect everything before the valve tbh, like freezing inside the drier. But normally if there is a blockage you will see a vacuum on one gauge. Also worth sucking everything out and weighing to check the correct weight as a starting po8nt.

Autodata says 30ml for the condensor and 12ml for the drier, plus of course what got removed with the gas. Yes the oil can be added by the machine, or you can put it in the components before fitting. When the ac stops, is the compressor still turning, and what are the pressures when the ac...

What is wrong witht the expansion valve?

You’ll have trouble getting anything out of those two. I’ll look in my book tomorrow for the recommended amounts.

Recovering the refrigerant may remove some oil, and this qty should be noted. There are also industry standard qtys that are replaced when components are replaces. A decent ac guy will know theses. Its all a bit of a guess, but isnt super critical, just not way too much or too little.

It’s nasty

There’s only 3 screws to frop it out and take a look.

Its got plenty of fresh black paint on it, and shiny shit all over the engine bay.

Sounds like front drive flanges.

Never understood gear oil viscosities, but yes, you have open diffs so dont use anything for limited slip digfs.

I used Automarine many years ago for my 80 pump refurbish. No problems with the pump, but they failed to set up the throttle position sensor on the pump, despite me leaving the workshop manual, so the gearchanges were all janky. I also left them a new cambelt and tensioner to fit while they had...

A bit of useless info here, but I did my apprenticeship at Hartridges in Buckingham, and my first few months were spent on the pop test section putting them together. That was back in 1980

I bought a new Jimny a couple of years ago, and decided I would keep it forever. So made the most of a new car and started doing all the preventative things I wished I could have done on previous cars. Dinitrol everywhere, changing all fluids regularly, making sure no cables or pipes are rubbing...

The chassis will still rot from the inside out due to condensation inside the rails. Hope you stuck some stuff inside anyway, just as inside sills, doors, pillars etc.

Its the same thing isnt it, whether the rings are worn, broken, or missing?

Sounds more like boost leak to me. Certainl6 not air in fuel line, whatever that means Does it do it in every gear?

He doesn’t do it any favours with all the seat covers. It should be mint under those, so why not show it.

Is it a factory sunroof? Looks a bit odd.

All the lights on older Toyotas usually means some alternator/charging/voltage problems. On newer ones it can mean the is a fault code somewhere - ecu, abs etc. and needs scanning.

Yes, I did the same and it was brand new.

The problem is, how do you know you’re getting a quality rebuild or replacement, if you dont get it from the dealer.

With such a small price difference I’d go for the goodrich, only because I’ve had them for years without any issues at all. A bit like the old saying ’no one ever got fired for buying IBM’

Generally GL4 for gearboxes, and GL5 for axles, as GL5 had additives that cause probs for gearbox synchros

I would have a good scrape on the back axle. There’s usually a reason they throw that thick black shite everywhere.

Good to see you here. I’m a little further up the country.

You make sure its right to start with.

I suck it out the dipstick tube every other engine oil change. Measure how much comes out, and replace the same amout.

Wants a good dose of Dinitrol sprayed on top there.

Usually a charging proble. Either alternator or its connection

Yeah, should have added ’a professional professional’.

My advice for taking out (and replacing) windows, is pay a proffesional to do it.

Do Toyota not do a rebuilt one anymore? I had one from them years ago, and I think it was just a brand new one in the box but at a better price.

They shouldnt put it on the rollers as its permanent four wheel drive. However, not sure why that would cause the issue.

I think you can bend the prongs, although I dont know how many times.

It looks like a Biltema one, in which case the usual Biltema rules apply - it may be dead on arrival, it may only work for a short while, and theres a modest chance it will last the warranty period. In other words, keep the reciept in a safe place.

Britparts has gone bust I think.

It usually all runs out.

Just be aware the system is old, so there may be more than one leak. It may also be that getting the system up to pressure will show a fault somewhere else in the system.

In theory someone with a good diag tool can tell you how much ash is in the dpf, although this ma6 be calculated and not actual. I dont think the ash can be removed, hence dpf replacements at high mileages.

Haven’t got one on my 93 80 series.

The sender on the transfer box output shaft. Converts rotary motion to an electric signal, like a little gearbox thing

Probably a mixture of all those things, but with the addition of possible injector problems with dodgy spray pattern burning the piston.

You can buy them easy enough

Its a bit hard to tell if they are selling genuine denso, or made for denso.

Crosland filters, were once a good quality, well known brand, especially amongst commercial users. But the brand was bought by ECP, so who knows what the quality is like nowadays, but its probably like all the other previous quality brand names that have been bought out and then used on crap...