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And who did the rubbish one last time?

That's the pipe. If it's blocked the passenger will get water in their feet, which will be below the evaporator box. Water from the door will be something else.

There should be a tube behind that little grill that goes to a small electric motor that sucks air past the sensor. The manual tells you the value from the sensor depending on temperature.

I doubt that little 13 row cooler will make any appreciable difference to transmission temperature. The std in-rad cooler is extremely efficient, and pretty big, so adding a little extra may no make a difference. Check out the size of the OE extra cooler to give you an idea of what may be required.

I massaged mine a little, and put spacers behind the supports to keep it away from the bulkhead. Unfortunately, after a couple of years it started leaking again, as there was a tiny imperfection in the pipe that turned into a pin hole. Fortunately I have a special brazing kit for ally a/c...

It's quite usual for that pipe to go where it touches the insulation and rots through. Be sure you get the correct pipes as the toyota number system used to be screwed up and you ended up with 2 halves the same, even with the correct (different) part numbers.

47 is very low for static pressure. Static pressure will always be the same so long as there is liquid gas in the system (think of a fag lighter, it has the same pressure until it's just about to run out). But at 47 it looks like it's jut got a sniff of gas left in the system, but enough to keep...

Really need to see what the pressures are, that will tell us if there's a blockage. But a blockage doesn't mean high pressure though. Sometimes the dryer is blocked, or more likely contaminated with moisture and freezing. Check to see if it's getting cold. Expansion valve not so common, and they...

About 120psi will do you, but it must be absolutely dry otherwise it will contaminate the drier. You can use argon or nitrogen also. Just not oxygen or acetylene!! Or you can buy one of those cheapy a/c refill kits, just make sure it doesn't contain any magic sealants/lubricant booster/snake...

Sometimes the pipes have tiny pin pricks in them, and often corrosion gets in the O ring joints, so even a new O ring doesn't fix it. There's always the compressor front seal and casing joints. I had to reseal my compressor a few years ago where corrosion got under the seals joining the casings...

The gas is pretty much odourless, and evaporator failures are rare. The usual areas are the condensor rotting out, the pipes from the condensor where they pass through the front panel and are wrapped in foam, and the pipe that goes across the bulkhead where it can touch the insulation and rot...

Also be aware that Scorpion don't exist any more, although there was a former employee that continued to repair them, but that was some 8 years ago now. Also, if the car batteries go flat, or are disconnected, it often results in a broken alarm and you can't start the car. Toyota had so many...

It means it's recorded a fault in the transmission. Get out the paperclip and read the codes.

Thanks guys. The heater seems to have done the trick - until next time. It looks like the lens clips on, so guess I'll have a go at breaking the lens an resealing it. I drilled a hole in the bottom of the sidelight to cure the condensation problem with that.

Got no SWMBO, and got no hair, so no hair dryer! I've taken out the bulbs and stuck a small fan heater down in the gap - see if that helps.

What's the best cure?

Just got my renewal through for the 80 series. £203 from Sureterm.

I remember picking mine up, brand new, from a dealership in Eastbourne (can't remember the name). Unfortunately it was a company car, so got used and abused for 3 years. If I knew I would be keeping it, I would have taken more care of it.

It seems like the box actually drops to 1st gear at low speeds, and then when hitting the gas the revs come up to catch up with roadspeed, then decides it should be in 2nd gear.

So long as you have the certificate, and it hasn't been revoked, then yes, you have 3rd party insurance in the whole of europe - whatever you're doing (even if it's illegal). There will be wording on the certificate something along the lines of "nothing on this certificate affects the rights of...

Mines done it for 18 years

I had a look at these, but the sprayer pipe is about the same diameter as the filler pipe. So air can't come up past the pipe as oil fills the tranny. Surely you need something with a pipe smaller than the tranny pipe, so air can purge as it's being filled? The tranny breather exits in the fill...

What has the water pump got to do with a cambelt change?

I think I saw an ad on ebay once, some time ago, that had a correct description, and, correct spelling. Could be wrong though.

There's no glues for polypropylene (PP) or polyethylene (PE, LDPE and HDPE). ABS can be stuck with some. Best option is to weld PP and PE.

Just about to do the ATF, so what's the sp on filling? Am I stuck with the silly little funnel and burping it every few seconds?

Well I would post it up, but it's in a magazine. Can't seem to find a web site for the magazine either. The other problem is it's in swedish. It was written by Rob, as you say, but obviously translated. It's over about 5 pages (with adverts) and has a good picture of your car, as well as a...

With a dark metallic 80, with roof tent and snorkel? I ask as there was an article in a Swedish 4WD mag about Green Laning in Wales

There's no sliders on the front. Fixed calipers with 4 pistons.

The water pump isn't really a pump, in that it can't generate any real pressure. It just splashes about helping to push the water round. Also, the cap is supposed to allow water both ways - hence the overflow bottle with a pipe that goes right to the bottom, so it can accomodate overflow, but...

Some foreign insurers are on the DVLA 'approved' list. My parent's english reg car is insured with a spanish company, as it spends a lot of time there, and the spanish outfit give unlimited time fully comp cover outside of spain.

For 11K he might at least fix the a/c and the aerial. And a genuine oil filter would be nice to see as well.

I think you're bashing our head against a brick wall trying to buy through a dealer. They've got to make at least a grand out of the deal, which means a 4K car is really a 3K car, at best. In my experience, they have overpriced, misdescribed, tat. The FSH should really be called PSH, the tyres...

I should think the first tip is not to use Milners springs and dampers.

'One of the goodest landcruisers around' it says. Ha, hope the car is better than the spelling.

I finally got around to checking the filter 'sock' in the tank. But there was no 'sock' in there! All there was, was a small clip-on cylindrical plastic and gauge filter. I took it off and blew it through with carb cleaner. It wasn't very dirty anyway, and the rest of the tank seemed fairly...

Ha, the manuals cover so many variants, and jumps about all over the place. I guess some markets didn't have power steering - I bet that was fun to park.

The pages you're looking at are for 'Manual steering'. What you probably have is 'power steering' Hence no gear oil, fill, or drain plug.

Thanks for the tips guys. Never made love to a beautiful women before, but have dreamt about what I'd do if i ever got the chance. So what do you actually clean the filter with?

I'm going to do this, to pre-empt any problems. For those that have done it, are there any parts I may need before I start? I don't want to get half way through and then find I need something that's on back order.

Not in the UK at the moment. I guess I can take one out and deduct the thickness of the pintle mount from the existing length. Ha, just trying to save a little work and get the right bolts up front. What about the bolts that hold the tie down eyes (now the towbar) on. They're the right size...

I want to remove the pintle, but have lost the standard (shorter) bolts that go in the 4 holes and hold the standard towbar plate. The pintle bolts are too long (without the pintle), so does anyone know the length of the standard M12 fine bolts? Are they available from the dealer?

Thanks mate. It looks like one of those things that I can't be bothered to fix - falls into the 'too difficult' area. Can't see how it works, but it has a motor that has obviously siezed. Just have to avoid that button in future.

I went to adjust the lumbar (the rear most button, not the turn knob) and it went back/down/reduced, but when pushing the button the other way all the dash lights/fag lighter/radio/cruise went out, and the gauges/speedo/rev counter dropped to zero. I tried it a couple of times, as you do, and it...

Thanks mate, I knew it was something like that. I pulled them both and took the covers off. The contacts looked like new, so I just pulled a little emery paper between them and stuck them back. Maybe one has a dodgy coil or something. Just have to wait for another night time trip to see, I guess.

It's playing up again, sometime giving main, sometimes nothing. I replaced them both about 5 years ago, so this time I thought I'd give it a clean instead. I seem to remember they were marked, but does anyone know what the offending relay is marked as? I seem to remember dim/dip or something.

Ha, I bought mine about 5 years ago, then it went missing, and I found it again yesterday, so figured I'd make a start. Better late than never.

Thanks guy, I'll give it a go at the weekend. The original wheel isn't too bad - a bit cracked and the shine has gone in a few places. The bigger problem is it's a bit sticky!

I bought one of these years ago, and have decided to fit it now! Any tips? It says to use dummy stitches where the spokes are, but won't this leave it baggy?

Where did the clutch come from? If not OE, then it probably had a cheap chinese bearing with incorrrectly hardened races, oval balls, and a tiny dab of rubbish grease. Not to mention a low quality rubber seal that wil go hard and not seal after a few weeks.