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I wouldn't take too much notice of the original link, my FX auto rarely shows up as an FX when searching for parts or insurance, I'm constantly having to call insurance companies at renewal time due to it being recorded as a GX. It never shows as an FX for buying spares. As has been said there's...

A bit of a late reply but half a litre wont do anything provided you filled up with derv after even if it's a later d4d engine

When you tighten them are you using a spanner on the nut and an hex key in the stud or another spanner on the flat by the boot? if the latter that could be the problem

if you do your own oil changes the best thing to do is next time you do an oil and filter change put 7 litres of oil in and that will be the correct level.

On mine the light goes out after a second or two but the glowplugs stay on for around two minutes, I start the car after about 10 to 20 seconds. You can check the plugs have power by putting a multi meter on the plugs or the metal bar feeding them.

Thanks for the replies, I'll give it a go later.

Does anyone know how to remove the radio surround on a 95, it's the long plastic wood bit that goes top to bottom of the dash. The online manual I have says "using your hands pull the bottom out first" but it doesn't seem to want to budge on mine and I don't want to break it. I have to fit a new...

I've just fitted a track rod end from Roughtrax, made by company called Camelot which I'd never heard of but it looks a lot sturdier than the original one I removed plus it has a grease nipple fitted which the original doesn't

New starter fitted and all working well, it fitted from underneath but it's bloody heavy when it falls and hits you on the face. Thanks for the guide Bob it's most helpful

I managed to get the plug off and removed the starter which was fairly easy and it came out from underneath the car. It seems to work OK on the bench but then there's no load on it and the solenoid terminals are quite worn with one at half the depth of the other plus the plunger contact is quite...

Not sure if it's broken, do you push inward and pull it off or lift something? Just looked at your picture again and mine is exactly the same as yours, I assume it's just very stuck after 20 years I'm assuming the starter is knackered, sometimes it starts OK but now it's started clicking and...

Thread resurrection here, how do you remove the ECU connector from the starter, I can't get mine to budge and can't see any catches to lift.

My FX comes with 215.80x16 as standard but they are quite hard to get in a decent off road tyre now so I've gone for 225.75x16 Cooper M+S tyres which aren't too bad. For some reason Toyota didn't changed the speedo gearing on this model so with the 215s the speedo over reads by about 10% and a...

Keep bleeding them and you should get something resembling decent brakes although from what I've read the Landcruiser brakes aren't that good at the best of times. The sinking pedal seems to be the norm, mine will go to the floor if I press the pedal down hard for any length of time with the...

If you're pumping the pedal and the red light comes on usually means low fluid. Does the pedal sink slowly when the engine is running? Try turning the engine off and then pump the brakes until the vacuum has gone and finally push really hard to see if the pedal sinks. I'd be more inclined to...

What's up with the old one

On my race car I use an old metal 1 gallon oil can with some hole drilled in the top as a vent with a bit of oil proof pipe running into it.

Are you in Australia? if so it seems expensive unless it includes fitting, my daughter is constantly ripped off with her car in Aus. Geometry wouldn't change with new ball joints so you must have something else set up incorrectly, not wishing to teach you to suck eggs but is the centre diff...

Seems strange to have a washer against the chassis, I would have thought washer, bush, chassis, bush, washer, nut. The shaft of the damper needs to be isolated from the mount by the bushes, putting the extra washer in defeats this.

It sounds like the bush is worn which may have caused the damper spindle to wear the mount a bit. There should be one or two bushes, depending on design, with the raised centre bit in your photo sitting in the mount hole. The damper shouldn't be loose in the hole even with the weight off it.

Mine has always been the same and I've gone through about 3 batteries in the 10 years I've owned it. It's worse in the winter after a spell of low to zero temps although I've just bought a ctek battery charger and given it a desulphate cycle which seems to have restored the battery somewhat.

Mine's got a single battery, one of these at the moment https://carbatteries-online.co.uk/product/bosch-s4028-car-battery/ although it's now knackered again. I've owned the car 9 years now and the battery has always been an issue and would generally only last a couple of years. The current one...

I've never seen it as a problem, I assumed it was an anti theft thing to stop people forcing the locks

I have a late 1999 FX (no flared arches) and the central locking works from buttons on the keys (no separate fob) and the car will also lock centrally by using a key in the driver's door lock. However, if you lock it using the button on the key then try and unlock using the key in the door lock...

What area are you in the UK Michael? I have a black one hanging up in my garage, the Toyota logo is chromed. Is yours intact with all the lugs unbroken?

When my A/C belt broke the replacements from the local motor factors were too short even though they were the correct length according to the local Toyota parts dept. I returned them and got the next size up which fitted fine. It seems a common problem that the recommended belts don't fit all...

We're not allowed to go jamming screwdrivers anywhere, finger pressure at first or a light tap with the corrosion tool and we can scrape with the corrosion tool if anything is amiss

Two things, 1: check and check again the tyres as they can cause major problems caused by imperfections that you can't always see at first glance, I once bought a car that had a vibration on it and kept taking it back, they changed the prop and CV joints to no avail and it wasn't until I got...

I have the same problem when it's getting down to near zero degrees, the only time it's OK is if the battery has been on charge, I even replaced a battery under warranty a year ago, it was again fine until this year when the problem started again. One thing that helped was changing the oil from...

The front wings are different on the FX, don't know about the rears but I would think so so the wider wheels and tyres clear. I've just had a new wing on my FX and it had to be shipped from Japan and even then there are two or three different wings for the FX.

Shayne and or Beau, how do you adjust the two bolts on the pivot on the outside of the brake back plates, the ones with the lock nuts on, are they adjusted when the brake is on or off and what position should they end up at?

I'll get a new alternator tomorrow, I can't be arsed with repairs as knowing my luck something else will break on it next week.

All terminals are clean, there isn't any change in output from the alternator when I rev the engine, it's just sitting around 11.7 volts or dropping. it always used to be 13 to 14.5 volts when running. I've done a continuity test from the alternator to the battery and that's fine.

My 95 has been getting a bit sluggish turning over when cold. I checked the voltage at the battery a while back and it was 13-14.5 volts from tickover to revving it. I put a new battery on last month as the old one was not holding a charge for long. It's got more and more sluggish turning it...

My 90 only has one battery but it has to be a bigger battery then the ones fitted to dual battery models. I've never had any issues with any lights glowing when they shouldn't, first thing to check is if it's charging properly, it should be over 14.5V on tickover once the glow plugs have gone...

I think I'll need some new callipers for my 99 Colorado (F&R). Our local motor factors does a couple of types, at £65 and £105 for the fronts. I'm not sure why the different prices and tbh neither are they. Are they all one type and any recommendations as to where to buy would be helpful.

Speedo should work, odo doesn't but if the mileage is the same as last year then the tester might start checking. TBH I never check if the speedo is working as I generally don't drive the vehicle any further than the length of the ramp. The criteria is that if the speedo is clearly inoperative...

We test to what we see when the car is presented, if the seats aren't fitted then we don't test the belts, also we don't test any belt with a child seat fitted. A bar isn't part of the test apart from it being secure and no sharp edges as with the rest of the body work.

If you've just started running on veg oil you may have to change the filters more than once, I've read of people having to carry spare filters with them and change them two or three times in as many weeks. It's not particles of dirt that's the problem it's a gel like substance that clogs...

That's probably your problem, veg oil cleans every bit of gunk out of the lines and blocks filters at an alarming rate. The other problem is the type of oil you're using, is it new, or used and filtered and what additive do you mix with it? If it's new a lot of the stuff has anti foam agents...

Have you checked the pickup/filter in the tank yet?

I've had this problem with an old Land Rover Disco I have, but no fault codes as it doesn't have an ECU. The problem was with the pickup in the bottom of the tank getting gunged up with a gel like substance from the diesel. On the Disco the pickup has a small pot at the bottom to hold a certain...

A 2000 auto will probably be the facelift pre D4D model. I have a 1999 FX and It's a pretty good truck which I bought 8 years ago at 68K miles for £5K, I have no idea what It's worth now. The only things I've replaced are the rear discs and pads although due to lack of use there are one or two...

If you're changing it yourself you could make sure the bowl under the filter is wiped clean and even spray a bit of brake cleaner or similar down the hole to flush it through, I've never had that problem and I only drive around 6km to get home.

Ah, this was at 3.30am this morning, pretty cold weather and I doubt it'd be that warm as I'd only done about 3 miles.

It doesn't seem to work on mine, I gave it a good go this morning and there appears to be no lock up and at 60+mph the revs just drop to around 1100 when I release the accelerator. Mine is a November 1999 UK delivered Colorado, it's the revamped model (post June 99) prior to the D4D coming out.

Thanks for the explanation, the revs do drop when the overdrive engages but my point is that does the clutch disengage the moment you release the throttle?

I think I'm being dense here or have just never heard of a torque converter locking. Are you saying there is a physical shaft that engages that joins the two halves together? If so that would mean that when you release the accelerator the engine revs wont drop, on mine the revs die down to...

At least you haven't driven around for two years with the O/D off, I will admit it was about six months before I found out about the overdrive button. :whistle: