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Would it be useful to see a diagram with the attached full number?

Roughtrax do the two bolts (for one side) for £67. And you can get pattern bolts from people like Febest. Hope your chassis and rear axle case last another 22 years.

The only reason the lower wishbones take any time to swap the first time is if you waste time trying to undo the camber adjusting bolts, rather than cracking out the reciprocating saw. I would buy a new set of camber bolts before anything else. Ask whoever replaces them to slather the unthreaded...

It never got any worse. Did about 60,000 miles on it after my "fix".

The 120 is famous(ish) for snapping a bit of plastic moulding that holds a pin and spring to let the selector hold in place. Or rather the pin gets very stiff and you can't get out of park so you pull hard and then the plastic snaps. There was a guy in Australia making a kit to fix it because...

What amazes me if pulling everything out of the interior, not snapping any plastic tabs. And then being able to find all the bits again when you want to reassemble it.

Incidently, the 2024 (and I think back to 2022) single cab AWD Hilux can tow 3.5 tonnes. I have the same engine in my 150, and while I don't tow 3.5 tonnes, because that would be illegal, it took a twin deck of lambs to market last month over a couple of the highest mountain roads in South...

Absolutely. Although you usually don’t have a trailer attached on the off chance. And you think, how bad can it be just to chuck them in the back. And then about 30 seconds into your journey you remember.

Those links are specifically for where regs don’t align with VAT. Not going to tell anyone they don’t need a pickup. I also get the dead sheep issue, but not frequently enough to buy a pickup; open a window / breathe through your mouth :) Its only an issue when they ooze past the tarp you’ve...

Do you need a pickup? If you currently have a twin-cab you should be OK for tax until April 2029. Commercial LC250 should be here well before then. Or you are likely to be able to remove the rear seats (including any mountings / weld up holes) and replace the glass in the rear windows with...

I suspect they are not factory fit. Added by dealer in country.

Fairly sure it's for a red warning triangle if that is a legal requirement in the market the car is being sold in. Eg, not in the UK.

Should just push up from one of these clips.

These rules, sneakily hidden in the "Terms and Rules" section? I bet admin are sipping banana daquaris on a tropical island with all our membership fees, instead of answering email on a Sunday.

Have pm'd you a link for toyodiy.

MOT is a visual check for a cat. Passing or failing emissions test doesn't prove it is there or not. Cat is supposed to be doing its job on a much wider range of conditions than an MOT emisssions test, so has to be there regardless of the test results. EGR will be the same, except you can't see...

I've never just removed that nut, but when you take the whole strut off there is very little force on the bottom wishbone when the wheel is off and it's hanging. Impact gun will easily shift the nut. All that said it doesn't look very corroded to me.

It'll be a fob for a push button start. Unfortunately you need a key to program a new one with Techstream. I think you can reprogram the smart entry ECU with something like VVDI2, but you need to find someone with the box and software and then get the ECU out to get a cable on it.

Thing is, building for heavy use is great, as long as you can get to where you want to work. This is why I often do 3 trips with my Jimny and 6' trailer rather than one in the 150. We have lanes into the mountains with dry stone walls either side that were built for horses and carts. Not many...

Having just looked it's amazing how heavy they are. Looks like half a ton heavier than a 120! 200kg more than a 150. Getting silly with the width now too. My 150 is a pain in the arse driving in the Welsh valleys with narrow roads and cars parked on both sides.

I've got my 120 (very similar) with a length of 4"x4" wood between chassis legs and body at the moment (to support the body more evenly than with a jack) which gives me room to use the MIG torch. So at least 4".

It would be easier to do the welding if you take the body off. But you can save a lot of time just lifting the back half enough to do what you want to do. I've done spring mounts (shock mounts are even easier) and tube cross member without any lifting. That said I don't have a post lift /...

What repairs are you doing? Do you really need the whole body off? You can lift the back half of the body enough to get a Mig torch on top of the chassis. Pop off the rear bumper then "just" unbolt the body mounts and jack the body. Front half doesn't tend to rot much.

Nice bit of fake wood, but they've put that stupid sidewall polish on, so it's a no from me :-)

State of that interior for 70/100 grand :roll: Even my LC3 120 has some nice fake veneer in a few subtle strips.

An observation after 30 months of using Lanoguard on a new 150. I live in South Wales, and it rains. A lot. I also drive at least 2-3 miles a day on muddy / rocky tracks with big puddles. And about 15000 miles a year on the road. I find the spray mostly washes / wears off within 6 months. And...

Original Toyota backbox lasted about 160K miles / 12 years. Roughtrax replacement went in about 50K miles / 4 years. Just as an idea. Going to be cheaper buying multiple copies unless you are very sure the chassis won't disintegrate in the next decade.

18 years! I don't think mine was that good at 7 years. And there lies the difference between Portugal and South Wales.

I did my 150 the day I bought it outside the chassis, used Dinitrol cavity wax in the chassis. And done it every 6 months since. Hard to say how good it is since the car is only 2 years old and I don't think even Land Cruisers rust that quickly. I would say you learn which bits it doesn't last...

The only place I've ever seen chassis being sold in Europe is North South. I think the problem will be they rot, as you will know. And that's probably the biggest reason to scrap them. Otherwise you're looking for one that's had a nasty accident but not done too much damage to a rare SWB in even...

North South 4x4 Spares - NS4x4 - [Leaving Land Cruiser Club]

Rob Cowell updated Torque Settings for 1GD-FTV (2022) with a new update entry: version 2 Read the rest of this update entry...

Clarified the 2 settings for lower ball joint. 1. ball joint attachment (to hub) 2 bolts (160Nm) 2. ball joint itself (140Nm)

I've stuck up a text file in the 150 resources with a load of post 2015 torque settings. I wanted to check the brake calipers (which actually I now think I don't need to remove to do the pads), and my 4 euro bought me an hour of browsing the workshop manual. Might have accidently done a few...

Rob Cowell submitted a new resource: Torque Settings for 1GD-FTV (2022) - Text file of common torque settings Read more about this resource...

These are from the manual for a 2022 model, but likely good from 2015 on. All values are Nm.

Love an SM. Citroen electrics and hydraulics with Maserati mechanicals. What could go wrong?

Yes, £75k for an Invincible. The 150 invincible was a smidge over £60k I think? Granted right now there is no lower spec, and I’m only guessing one will come along. Seems priced pretty close (maybe slightly above) an equivalent Defender for same sort of spec.

About 25% up on the 150? Might get an “Active” for about £60k? Assuming there will be a poverty spec at some point.

Are you sure? 53k EUR is what they are selling the old stock 150 "Life" (a 3dr commercial with windows and seats) for in France. Seem to be plenty of old stock 150s left for sale in France too. In the US the $57K is (I think) before sales tax and other random pennies they always seem to apply...

Love the colour! I think it's a VZJ95, technically a VZJ95L-GKMNKW Last ones were made in August 2002, so maybe the 2003 reg is confusing the insurance computers, especially as it was also never for the UK?

Anyone worried? I asked Toyota UK if there were any "fixes" for the 150, I know Lexus are installing metal plates to make access to the usual connectors harder. Their response is, "We are currently working on a security update for affected models and would recommend registering your vehicle as...

So you're saying Ursula von der Leyen is personally connecting to my laptop and messing up my cookies?

Those are the compensation codes you need to upload to the ECU.

toyodiy lists the injectors for that VIN as being part number 23670-39135 which is the PFJones one you were looking at

Those ball joints have to be torqued pretty high onto the hub carrier. On after market joints (and you can’t buy Toyota balls, just the whole arm) I’ve often ended with the castle nut on the limit of where the hole is for the pin. Personally I doubt that did for the drop link. The OEM links...

I reused mine so was handling them very gently, but they seem pretty thin. I would think a decent pair of snips would go through them.