Don't like the adverts?  Click here to remove them

Battery dead after sitting for two days

nmz

New Member
Joined
Aug 9, 2016
Messages
4
Country Flag
united_states
Thanks in advance for any help with this. I have been troubleshooting this problem off and on for months. I've pretty much read everything I could find on the internet about this. I've done all of the basics, new battery, check for light at night, etc. Did have a little trouble with the six disc changer under the armrest and removed the cartridge but that is not the cause.

Here is what I've learned. Placed an analog current meter between the negative battery terminal and the cable. It has a 500ma scale and a 100mz scale that I can work with. When you first complete the circuit it pegs the meter for 5 to 10 seconds then it comes back down to about 1/2 scale and then a short time later drops to about 68ma. I believe that this is where it should be resting.

If you open the door it pegs the meter again, close the door and the meter eventually drops to about 350ma, it never returns to 68ma. That is the current draw that is killing my battery. I have learned that if I use the key fob to lock the doors that the meter does return back to 68ma where it should be. Repeated this test many times.

I have also removed all of the fused in the box under the hood and discovered that the draw is coming through the supply to the fuse box on the passenger side, kick panel, fuse box. I narrowed that down to the draw going away when I remove the ECU-B2 fuse.

Something that powers up when the door is opened (doesn't matter which door) does not power all the way back down after the door is closed, even after waiting for 30 minutes, still drawing about 350ma. Note that I have the dome lights turned off with the switch and also have the headlight switch set to off. I see the lights in the door come on when I open the door but they turn off when I close it. Again, I waited for dead of night, pitch black, to see if I could see anything glowing. Nothing is lit up, no glove box light, no rear DVD player activity, checked all of that.

We borrowed a very sophisticated Snap On reader and determined that there were no error codes in any of the modules, specifically the body module. Cleared the readings and started the car, moved it a bit and read the computers again, nothing, no error codes.

Anybody know all of the things that come on when you open the door and that shut off completely when you lock the door with the key fob? Help! I just had to spend a couple hundred on one of those emergency start batteries.
 
Sounds like you are fighting windmills...
Guessing a shorted rectifier diode in the alternator, which leads to both weak charging and leaking current.
 
Sounds like you are fighting windmills...
Guessing a shorted rectifier diode in the alternator, which leads to both weak charging and leaking current.
Wouldn't that be leaking current all of the time, regardless of door opening/closing or door locked or unlocked?
 
Yes. You actually measured directly on the battery terminal, so that would catch it.
But how is the charging? At 350 mA, it would still take over 200 hrs to drain a good battery, which more than a week.
 
Yes. You actually measured directly on the battery terminal, so that would catch it.
But how is the charging? At 350 mA, it would still take over 200 hrs to drain a good battery, which more than a week.

I see your point although I don't think that the battery discharges linearly. The discharge curve probably has a knee in it at which point it will no longer be able to start the vehicle. I believe that 50% is a good rule of thumb. Your point is still valid though because that would suggest 100 hours to discharge which is over 4 days. I will check the alternator and will attach an oscilloscope to the terminal to see if looks like a rectifier is shorted or open. I presume that I will see some AC ripple if that is the case.
 
I see your point although I don't think that the battery discharges linearly. The discharge curve probably has a knee in it at which point it will no longer be able to start the vehicle. I believe that 50% is a good rule of thumb. Your point is still valid though because that would suggest 100 hours to discharge which is over 4 days. I will check the alternator and will attach an oscilloscope to the terminal to see if looks like a rectifier is shorted or open. I presume that I will see some AC ripple if that is the case.
Or just disconnect the alternator connections and see if the battery dies in the same time. Would be a good idea to check the charging voltage too which should be around 14.4v IIRC.
 
Don't like the adverts?  Click here to remove them
There is a timer relay for the ignition switch illumination, could be losing it there?

regards

Dave
 
There is a timer relay for the ignition switch illumination, could be losing it there?

regards

Dave

I will take a look at that again. I did wait for the dead of night and it is pitch black here when there is no moon. I did not see any lights glowing at all.
 
I will take a look at that again. I did wait for the dead of night and it is pitch black here when there is no moon. I did not see any lights glowing at all.

There is a door ajar system that does appear to be to tied to the interior light circuit, and even if the bulb's are blown the relay could still be held in the 'on' position but you would see nothing. The relay is normally activated by for example the drivers door switch, then the door is closed, the supply has been cut but the relay is held activated or 'latched', by a charged capacitor. Then the key illumination or door ajar bulb draws down the capacitor and the relay releases. By activating the alarm you are 'forcing' the relay to release. And if it helps, the draw for a typical relay held in a latched position is around 200 milliamps. I am not saying this is your problem but, the alarm/interior light s delay/door ajar indicator/ignition barrel illumination, are all tied together somewhere so......?

You might want to pull out fuses and see if your repeatable scenario still exists?

regards

Dave
 
Last edited:
Immobilizer or Central lock would be my guess based on the door theory.

U need to measure directly into the circute with a high end multimeter or osciloscope.
 
Translated (thanks Google)

“Did I deal with the problem because I am facing the same problem”
 
Brake lights are always live as is the tow socket .
 
Mine was the same this morning, Only just Fired up, Not the first Crisp instant start iv been use to.... Was very cold and Damp this morning, Been stood over the weekend...... Hopefully just needs a good run out
 
Back
Top