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Has your Baxi 105HE boiler froze up ?

BIG clean GREEN

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Apr 6, 2010
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OK, over the past few weeks with the temps outside getting so low, my system has frozen up 4 times, it freezes up from the drain pipe outside the house then backs up in to the system causing the boiler to stop working, when you look inside the panel the 30deg light is flashing and no matter how many times I tried to reset it, it just wouldn't ignite, this is how I've finally cured it via my mate the plumber boy.
* to begin with remove the pipe from outside and defrost, then you can either shorten this pipe dramatically or temporarily remove whilst we have the bad frosts, lagging them only traps the cold air inside the pipe and potentially makes them worse (the water is freezing as it dribbles down the pipes and causing the blockage)
* If neccessary use an air dryer on the length of pipe which comes back through the wall to the boiler, because it's likely that the frost has backed right up inside.
* Now check the pressure guage, it needs to read about 1.3bar, if it's less, look under the boiler and you'll see 2 silver braided hoses with black valve taps on them, open both taps completely (quarter turn) untill the pressure on the guage reads 1.3bar, this only takes a second or so so be quick to turn both valves back to their original position.
* Now try to reset the boiler by twisting the switch anti-clockwise, if the amber coloured neon light for the flame doesn't turn on and the 30 deg red light flashes you'll need to go to the next step !
* If the water has backed right up into the boiler itself it will cause the electrics to shorten
- Turn the power off to the boiler ! "Important"
- using a screw driver slacken the 2 screws either side of the lower front panel and lift the white front off.
- you'll now see a small see through resevoir to your right with 2 elecrtical terminals on the top, these are the safety cut out wires which when wet trips the system out and prevents the flame staying on, all you need to do is gently remove both these cables, remembering which one is which, and dry them out using paper towel or toilet paper and also dry the small tray in which they sit.
- reconnect the wires, turn the power back on and try the reset switch, it should hopefully now be cured, if so replace the front cover, tighten the screws and make yourself a well earned cup of tea, if it doesn't work then I'm sorry but you'll need to call your local plumber boy.
- Please note I'm not a registered plumber just an home DIY person, I found this advise simple to follow from my mate and as a result found that I'd like to share it with others to save them some money and keep them warm !

Regards all and merry Christmas,
Nick.
 
Thanks for that Nick :thumbup: , very good advice, my cousin who used to be registered Corgi engineer is coming over this morning to do exactly that to my boiler which has frozen up.
 
Morning all

if you can, try to re route the condensate pipe work to a drain inside. this is the problem with condensate traps and the higher end boilers have a siphonic trap that dumps a load out in one go then the pipe work drains clear again if its been installed correctly.

Joe
 
I've rescently fitted two new Worcester Bosch Greenstar condensing system boilers in my house (one is a 30Kw - 102364Btu & the other a 12Kw - 40945Btu a total of 143309Btu :shock: ) Getting back to your troubles what is happening is that your condensate pipe freezes closed then the condensate backs up in the boiler shutting it down :) From what I can remember the requirements for the condensate drain pipe are as follows :arrow:

For all interenal pipework a minimum of 22mm is required (standard overflow pipe & fittings are normally used but you can also use Speedfit pipe & fittings).

For all exterenal pipework a minimum of 22mm is required but this must be insulated using the highest grade of sleeve pipe insulation :!: If it's not practicle to use insulation then a minimum of a 32mm pipe (standard waste pipe) must be used if the pipe is to be uninsulated.

Both of mine use a combination of the two but when the condensate drain leaves the building they are both 32mm piped directly into the building. The other thing that may help is lengthening the run of your external pipework to try to counter the wind effect terminating it somewhere away from enviromentle effect (for example both of mine terminate into the main soil pipe for the house).

One last thing the condensate is a little more than a drip my 30Kw boiler has a max condensate rate of 2.7l/h & the 12Kw 0.93l/h :!:

I'm not trying to teach or preach but just pass on my own rescently gained knowledge on this subject :D I hope that it helps you sort out your troubles :)

Good luck :thumbup:
 
I'm very pleased to say I now have heat again after cutting off the boiler drainpipe outside :thumbup:
 
Been down to B&Q and bought myself a length of flexi hose, an elbow and a 40mm T pipe so I can re-route the boiler condensation pipe from inside to share with the washing machine drain ! I can't understand why the plumbers didn't do this in the first place, unless of course they'd just had a new fandango drill and needed to see if it worked on walls !!

Nick.
 
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BIG clean GREEN said:
Been down to B&Q and bought myself a length of flexi hose, an elbow and a 40mm T pipe so I can re-route the boiler condensation pipe from inside to share with the washing machine drain ! I can't understand why the plumbers didn't do this in the first place, unless of course they'd just had a new fandango drill and needed to see if it worked on walls !!

Nick.

They should route them inside if they can but sometimes they just whack it straight outside as its easier. but if i can i always route it inside.

And one note if anyone has been playing with the condensate trap in the boiler never run the boiler with it empty as it can pass flue gases through an empty trap its a small chance but it can happen.

Joe
 
Joe, am I right in thinking that the trap is double sided like the things you put on top of demi jons for wine making to prevent air entering ????

Nick.
 
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