HZJ79

[scottishtech]

anybody know if there are any rear brake conversions for the HZJ79 pickup, drums to discs??

 

[Crushers]

you can buy factory rear disc diffs, the aftermarket disc kits leave plenty to be desired.

 

[roscoFJ73]

I dont know why you would want to. If the drum brakes are properly serviced and adjusted they will work as well as the disc brakes.
The handbrake on the drum is also less troublsome.

 

[scottishtech]

thanks crushers

don't suppose u have any part numbers lol

 

[Crushers]

used, if you can find them, is the cheapest and easiest

if you go through this thread http://forum.ih8mud.com/70-series-tech/ ... build.html you will see the build of the FF disc rear using all factory parts, each part must be ordered individually. the final cost with new factory e/locker was just shy of $6200 CND.

 

[roscoFJ73]

used, if you can find them, is the cheapest and easiest

if you go through this thread http://forum.ih8mud.com/70-series-tech/ ... build.html you will see the build of the FF disc rear using all factory parts, each part must be ordered individually. the final cost with new factory e/locker was just shy of $6200 CND.

And then you have to buy the front axle to match and another $6000?

Cheaper and easier to leave the drums in there and go with ARB/TJM lockers

 

[Crushers]

Rosco is bang on on both points.
nothing wrong with the stock rear drums.

 

[Roger Fairclough]

Rosco is bang on on both points.
nothing wrong with the stock rear drums.

Not so.

The principal problem with the 297mm dia. drum brake---strangely the KZJ 70 is classed as light duty although the drum brakes are heavy duty---is the complex nature of the adjuster and hand brake mechanisms. The main h/brake cable terminates onto the b/axle at a distribution point for both brakes. Open bowden cables then pass to bellcrank levers that operate further cables within the drum brakes. All of these points are subject to fowling and corrosion, particularly the bellcrank as it is enclosed in a rubber shroud that easily fills with water and mud. The bellcrank is supported by an aluminium block that corrodes and jams the mounting pin.

Within the drum itself the adjuster mechanism seizes at the thread making drum removal difficult. The parking brake shoe lever and the adjusting lever wear at the locating pin and the bellcrank to lever cable can jamb on the midway fulcrum mount.

In the UK mud, especially in Winter, is the main material we drive through on a laning day. A few muddy tracks, a ford or two---we love our fords---and we need to strip out the drums and do a thorough clean. That's half a days labour. If you don't, the brake drums and shoes wear extremely quickly, the braking power reduces, the h/brake is all but useless and the lever feels sloppy. You also stand a good chance of failing the MoT.

The best scenario is a dedicated disc brake, similar in design to the front, with a disc brake on the t/case for the h/brake.

Yes, if the drum brake is maintained regardless, it works well, but the amount of work necessary to keep it working properly is very high.

Roger

 

[ModelMakerMan]

Im with Roger on this one. The drums and handbrake on my KZJ70 works better than any other handbrake Ive used when its working correctly but I find i have to disassemble it at least once a year to sort out the many issues that driving off road causes inside the drums. The most common one is the short handbrake cable coming from the crank slipping off the pivoting part inside the drum, the solution to stop this happening is to tighten the main handbrake cable and/or adjust the cranks but this usually means the brakes drag slightly and wear faster and/or the mud that gets inside binds up the brakes easier.

 

[Crushers]

ummm, the e/brake assembly works the same for both drums and disc rears with the biggest difference being the size ...
both have the stupid aluminum towers to activate the cables
both can be troublesome to remove if the owner has neglected to maintain.

 

[scottishtech]

thanks guys, the reason for this enquiry is because these vehicles are used in the jungle of Guyana in South America. a trip to town (distance of about 150km, roundtrip) and the rear shoes are gone. the white sand gets into them and acts like a grinding paste. totally destroying the linings. they were originally ordered to have rear discs, but this is not an option for this region. as is the diff lock. we are looking at a brake proportioning valve to reduce the use of the rear brakes while the vehicle is in the jungle.

 

[Roger Fairclough]

The KZJ 70---front discs, rear drums---has a brake proportioning valve as standard. It's fitted onto the off-side chassis rail, just forward of the back axle. Fine control is affected by a lever that operates off the back axle. The greater the load, the greater the brake force from the drums. It does not affect the disc's.

On the KZJ 70, if you disconnect the lever, brake force at the back is basically zero.

Roger

 

[roscoFJ73]

Its still going to be cheaper and easier to live with the rear drums. Once you have done them a few times,it becomes 2nd nature.
I used my old 73 series in sand nearly every weekend and never had a problem with the shoes wearing quickly.
With mud,I just removed the rubber plug and flushed them with the garden hose

 

[Sierra Leone]

thanks guys, the reason for this enquiry is because these vehicles are used in the jungle of Guyana in South America. a trip to town (distance of about 150km, roundtrip) and the rear shoes are gone. the white sand gets into them and acts like a grinding paste. totally destroying the linings. they were originally ordered to have rear discs, but this is not an option for this region. as is the diff lock. we are looking at a brake proportioning valve to reduce the use of the rear brakes while the vehicle is in the jungle.

Hi Scottishtech, I understand where you are coming from and we are currently undergoing the same conversion here in Sierra Leone.... The rear drum is a waste of time IMO, its fine for people to jump online here and say with ''MY'' car all i do.... Well with our ''FLEET (30)'' Land cruisers its almost and impossible to maintain during the rainy season... Rear liners last 4 - 16 days, maybe! We've found an Austalian company called Hopperstopper that can help. Maybe check them out.... Its a costly adventure when replacing with original parts. The worst i've heard here is on the iron ore mines - 2 days and the liners are finished.....

The people on this forum must understand these vehicles never see tar roads.... because..... they dont exist.... The sand, mud , rock is so fine it destroys everything in days. So scottish to answer the question, try hopperstopper website see what you think... Hope i have helped without giving you ''what works for me & O! thats a waste of time.............

Cheers mate, enjoy the jungle like we do.... LOL..... O BTW we've found Unimog U1300 are amazing in this enviroment......