Starter motor and switchover solenoid burn out

[richrock]

So, a bit of a crappy morning today. I stopped to pick up some stuff from my workshop and the truck wouldn't cut out - just kept cranking over. Not too far to the garage so thought I would drive it round there. Instruments started to die on the way and then just round the corner from the garage the whole truck died - no power left at all.

Got towed to the garage and the starter motor and switchover solenoid (for the 12v to 24v system) are kaput and it has fried both batteries. Garage just phoned with a quote of £359+VAT for the starter motor and £532+VAT for the solenoid!!!!! That seems rather excessive for a solenoid. Does anyone know of anywhere I might be able to get one at a reasonable price?

Thanks,
Rich

 

[karl webster]

Hi Rich I have one on the shelf. I'll pm you.

 

[clivehorridge]

Hi Rich I have one on the shelf. I'll pm you.

Karl to the rescue "off the shelf", brilliant!!
Love this forum

 

[richrock]

Me too!! Karl you are a legend!

I must be more active and start putting some photos up when I do work on the truck (not very exciting at the moment though - just a split charge system to a 3rd battery).

 

[Firewout]

The problem with those fantastic older trucks is the fact that some parts do wear.
This is also true for the contacts in the starter solenoid.
I also had a sticking solenoid in my 75 but fortunately, the contacts came onstuck after a few seconds, so no harm done. The contacts were completely burnt away.
Checked the contacts in the 80 lately. had less than 1 mm left on one side, so I was happy I got to it in time and it only cost me 25€ for a set of new contacts.

 

[clivehorridge]

Me too!! Karl you are a legend!

I must be more active and start putting some photos up when I do work on the truck (not very exciting at the moment though - just a split charge system to a 3rd battery).

Beats my recent maintenance, a stop/tail light bulb blew.

Damn things are so reliable there's not much else to do but add extras.

A split charge and third battery sounds exiting enough for me!

 

[StarCruiser]

You may get away with changing the starter contacts. Larger contact area ones are available. Sounds to me like it just ran the batteries flat but of course, that equipment is only very short time rated so could well have burned out. Make sure that you get the correct starter motor with the correct number of teeth on the pinion. There are 11 and 12 tooth versions.

For anyone else experiencing this bother, don't let the starter run for too long. Give it a sturdy clout with something, hold a piece of wood against it and clout the end, that sort of thing. It will be the solenoid (smaller cylinder on the side of the starter motor) that is sticking. If this doesn't work, disconnect both batteries but you stand the chance of frying your alternator (and other sensitive parts) if you do this, so it really is last resort stuff.
The clout usually works if you do it hard enough.

 

[Dave2000]

As all of above but check starter for 11 or 12 teeth.

regards

Dave

 

[StarCruiser]

Thanks Dave. My bad. Brain cell must have got hot. Edited now.

 

[Dave2000]

Thanks Dave. My bad. Brain cell must have got hot. Edited now.

Just the one cell huh? I have two, the problem is they are always fighting with each other.

regards

Dave

 

[StarCruiser]

Just the one cell huh? I have two, the problem is they are always fighting with each other.

regards

Dave

I don't have that problem. Mine is operating at the peak of efficiency. It has to be, it does pretty well on its own but has to go for a lie down occasionally, else it overheats. That's when things turn to poo!

 

[richrock]

80 is up and running again! Slightly upsetting £500 but better than the £1405 quoted by the garage thanks to Karl. Next job is to find time to check and replace the bushes in the starter motor as I didn't have time to do it before getting it fitted...
I know you all like photos so here are my shiny new batteries (I'll post one of the starter motor internals when I get round to taking the old one to pieces):

 

[frank rabbets]

I don't quite get this. There are 2 sets of high ampage contacts.

1. Solenoid on starter.
2. Cross over switch.

Both engage when the ignition key is turned to start. Now I've had my solenoid contacts weld together and cause the starter to continue running but presumably only on 12 volts as I had let go of the key assuming the cross over was working ?

If just the crossover contacts welded and Rich let go of the key presumably the starter would have disengaged ?

Dave will know if he's not too busy sun bathing.

 

[StarCruiser]

I don't quite get this. There are 2 sets of high ampage contacts.

1. Solenoid on starter.
2. Cross over switch.

Both engage when the ignition key is turned to start. Now I've had my solenoid contacts weld together and cause the starter to continue running but presumably only on 12 volts as I had let go of the key assuming the cross over was working ?

If just the crossover contacts welded and Rich let go of the key presumably the starter would have disengaged ?

Dave will know if he's not too busy sun bathing.

Correct. Then the second battery would not receive charge. Forgive me, but I have my doubts that both starter and changeover relay would fail at the same time.

 

[Dave2000]

Sorry Frank just seen your post about the contacts. If either the starter contacts stick then only a constant 12v when key released, if the switch contacts stick then yes 24v .

Too much hassle for me, I ripped the lot out and fitted the HDJ 100 starter, 3kw and only a minor hitch in 4+ years. So now have the proper HDJ80 12v version fitted, never looked back.

regards

Dave