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Starter removal guide - 90 series D-4D

Bob

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Hey guys - hope this is of some use to someone - Pics and help for removing the starter from the D-4D engine in a 90

Mine is a late model KDJ95 - got the starter reconditioned yesterday - cost a total of €85 (about £70)!

1- With the 90 up on an axle stand remove passenger side front wheel - then remove plastic panel shown below for access to the starter
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2 - Remove the main power lead from the starter (12mm socket) and disconnect the ecu connections

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3 - Using a 17mm cranked spanner - undo the top nut until it is loose enough to turn by hand - followed by the bottom bolt. Access is tight and only expect 1/8th of a turn of the spanner - patience required.

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4 - Once nut and bolt are out - starter must be taken out through the top - so remove the air filter housing. This is also tight and you may have to unclip a couple of the hoses to move them out of the way. It helps if you bring the starter up gear end first.

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5 - Get starter reconditioned by auto electrician - in this case clutch was gone and brushes worn.

6 -Replace starter in reverse procedure - again patience required - having big hands is a disadvantage here - thakfully mine aren't shovels! Tighten well and use a torque spanner preferably to correct settings (didn't have these to hand but judged it ok from years of changing heads on tractors)

Hope its of some use for others - not half as hard as i thought it would be from reading on here!! whole job took 45 min (not including auto leccy of course!!)

Bob
 
nice guide, never knew there were torque settings for a starter and i have changed and fixed a few in my time on cars and tractors
 
This will also work for the earlier 90's, the only difference when I did mine was to undo the brackets for the brake line and undo the clutch cylinder which allows enough space to rotate and pull the starter out from the side where you undo the bolts from instead of pulling out from above. Still a fiddly job.

Richie
 
Thread resurrection here, how do you remove the ECU connector from the starter, I can't get mine to budge and can't see any catches to lift.
 
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It's just a typical Toyota connector with a plastic spring loaded clip. I've had the starter refurbed twice and it's never caused a problem. I wonder is the 'thumb' end of yours broken. Some of them can be awkward
 
It's just a typical Toyota connector with a plastic spring loaded clip. I've had the starter refurbed twice and it's never caused a problem. I wonder is the 'thumb' end of yours broken. Some of them can be awkward
Not sure if it's broken, do you push inward and pull it off or lift something? Just looked at your picture again and mine is exactly the same as yours, I assume it's just very stuck after 20 years

I'm assuming the starter is knackered, sometimes it starts OK but now it's started clicking and turning slowly and then starting OK. Just put a new battery on but could it be a relay or fusible link causing problems?
 
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It pulls off, but they do get stuck. Any time I've had starter motor issues on these it's been at the bendix end.. the gear that engages the flywheel. Excessive wear and the crunchy sound ensues. Slow turning could be the starter alright, if you've eliminated the battery. Check the cables too just in case of corrosion.
 
I managed to get the plug off and removed the starter which was fairly easy and it came out from underneath the car. It seems to work OK on the bench but then there's no load on it and the solenoid terminals are quite worn with one at half the depth of the other plus the plunger contact is quite pitted. Rather than refurb I've ordered a new starter which will hopefully solve the problem. I'll post when I've finished
 
New starter fitted and all working well, it fitted from underneath but it's bloody heavy when it falls and hits you on the face.
Thanks for the guide Bob it's most helpful
 
Oops! Probably why I naturally went at taking it out from above... I like my face even if it's no oil painting!
 
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