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Toyota diagnostic wire part 09843-18040

Raj

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Dear All,

I am looking for Toyota diagnostic special tool with part number 09843-18040. This part number is available in other countries and currencies but not showing up in Pounds in UK.
I am trying to check autotransmission fluid level and we need either OBD computer or this special tool.
Did anyone know where to get this tool.
It looks like two wires are to be connected at 4 and 13 ports. Any suggestions please if we have any DIY ideas to serve the purpose of this tool? or is this tool something that has some special characters that work in certain way.

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Procedure per Haynes manual.

Ensure that all electrical consumers are switched off
Turn the air conditioning off
Connect the two terminals marked in the picture CG-TC

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Use a special tool 09843-18040or
Connect the diagnostic tool
Press and hold the brake pedal
Start the engine
Move the gear lever from position 'P' to position 'S'
Cycle through the gears once 1 - 6
Move the gear lever to position 'P'
Move the gear lever to position 'D'
Within 6 seconds : Move between the gear lever positions 'N' and 'D', pausing in each gear for 1 secondIf the gear indicator display shows: D
 
Not sure what this is for and can’t help you on that but it’s available here.
 

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If its this gearbox (A750E/F 5 Speed Automatic Transmission) then its 'sealed for life' hence no dipstick for checking the level. Ultimately even without the test wires its the same as older boxes where you remove the 'refill plug' where some oil should leak out and if not then top up I believe.
 
Mike about 3 months I got ATF and filter replaced. Last week and during Christmas holidays I lifted car and looked underneath. I noticed ATF dripping from drain plug so thought of checking level. As you mentioned there is a drain plug and a fluid level check plug beside it. It’s same process as your cars. I ve to check level by removing level check plug, if it drips n trickle it’s fine. As per manual to check level, I have to get ATF to 41-44 degrees. That wire tool is part of the process to make sure ATF is in correct temp.
Don’t know if Its my OCD or if ATF should not be dripping from drain plug. Just thought of checking as the garage that did this fluid change told this is the first time they are working on 200 series
 
I've always used a paperclip for this. You're just connecting two terminals with a very low current. The proper tool probably sits on the terminals more securely, probably.
 
Thank you Rob.
 
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Raj, you shouldn't have fluid dripping from your drain plug, it has either not been torqued correctly or most likely a new washer wasn't used when drain and refill was done by garage.
 
Thank you Tractionman, I am not driving the car since I saw these oil leaks. There was also oil dripping from front differential. I got that too changed at same time. It could be washer as its minor leak instead of contineous drip. On 3rd Jan when I went under the car, I saw oil on bash plate under front differential. I cleaned it and may be did about 20 miles since then. Yesterday when I opened. there was again some oil there.
Could be not washer issue. To replace washers I might have to change oils again right?
I am ok with changing them again but will I cause any damage by changing oils too frequently? These oils were changed 2000 miles ago.
 
For sure you will have to drop the oil/fluids if there is a leak from drain plugs Raj, assuming they are correct torque, sometimes the smallest of turns using a torque wrench, can stop a leak.
I would think though the garage has used the original washers.
As you have only done a small amount of miles since last fluid changes, you COULD reuse, BUT check the condition when it's out, colour, no bits. Of course if you want complete piece of mind, change them. You wont do any damage by putting in fresh again.
You may find your local main dealer is cheaper than the likes of Milner or Roughtrax genuine washers, as the post on small items kills anything saved there.
 
On the 200 can you really just pour out the ATF and fill it up in one shot ? It's a lot more faff on the 120.
 
KB, we need a pump to get the oil into ATF pan but it’s simple process. ATF filter changed 2K miles ago so just oil out and oil in.
After doing propshaft greasing and jacked up car twice, I am bit more confident and changing ATF feels simple now.
Buying tools may take a month or two. Torque wrench, pump to force Oil into pan (one for ATF, one for differential oil to avoid cross contamination), clear calibrated jars to collect oils, new oils, plugs or washers.
 
Probably mentioned before, but a decent (i.e. accurate, Norbar etc.) torque wrench will be your friend. If you check the drain plugs and they're below spec for tightness then nudge them up. If ok then (as already mentioned) new seals were not used. Until you get used to tightening things up, a torque wrench will be very handy. Sometimes fear of stripping threads ( a healthy thing !) can leave things below spec.
 
Thank you Michael, Tractionman and Flint.
Only reason I didn’t buy special tool is, it’s in $. sounds strange but I never purchased anything in other currencies so I naturally stop if it’s not in GBP. Now I have alternate to buying that tool. I can use any clip or wire.
While looking for Haynes manual, full version of the manual is only available in AUS$ so didn’t buy that n got smaller Autofix version from UK site.
I will first try to torque ATF n differential plugs to specified torque. If it doesn’t work, will buy new washers n go for full oil change.
 
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