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Consider moving to Gmail or similar - have my emails back to 2006 when I created my account and still not out of space yet! ISP email is far inferior to web based solutions these days and ties you to the ISP to keep the email. Moving email addresses is a pain but you can transition over time...

Every Japanese car I've owned has tiny cupholders suitable only for the little 100yen 150ml cans you get in Japan! Wife has tried out a few adapter/extender things but they are universally shit unless you screw them down somehow. Just makes the cup whole setup top heavy and then any sudden...

Replaced all my gear oils today and mostly went well excluding my driveway which looks like a gear oil murder scene. Anyway noticed pressure in my transfer case when I undone the full plug. Car had been unused 30hrs. I thought there should be a vent? Could be that it is blocked or needs...

Yeah that's where it should be and yes it's identical to the 90 series ones. Make sure you have all the tools too (back door drivers side compartment).

Could try scrap yards too. Especially if a car has been t-boned or rear ended the front bumper will probably be ok.

You can probably find bumpers cheap from people removing them to put on bullbars. Here 90% of 4WDs have one so there must be tons of factory bumpers stashed somewhere.

DPF on my 2016 has been replaced too, no hassles since and it does do short trips as well as longer ones. The active regeneration is so much better than just passive regeneration and easily doable even in a suburban setting.

I have Yoko 265/65/17 on mine. Ok but I do get a bit of oversteer if I go too fast round a corner. Had Bridgestones on my 90 when I had it and they were fine.

5VZ is a mechanical throttle. Could they have used the same actuator for both the 1KZ and the 5VZ?

2 things I'd try. I'm not too experienced with auto transmissions though. 1. Disconnect the solenoid plug on the transmission. (Triangle shape plug) This will put the transmission into manual mode where D, 2 and L become a clunky 4th, 3rd and 1st. This should prove that 3rd/4th is possible...

Sometimes this can be caused if the steering is pushed hard against an object (eg kerb) and the steering lock has activated in this position.

You really need to check if it's wiring or the connector. Even just a random car bulb with some wires will do. I'd start by getting that panel off (think you have to remove the trim around the gear levers and working up), then get the wires off the connector, hook your bulb or voltmeter to...

The two top right 20A ones - PWR OUTLET ACC.

Either bad connection behind the panel or they may on different fuses. IIRC there is a power outlet fuse in the under bonnet fusebox. If you have a voltmeter you could measure between the good and bad one - that way you can tell if the issue is with the positive or negative connection...

Nice I'll give it a go at the weekend! Yes this has 2 seperate switches, the CD switch and a range switch.

Noticed on my 150 that the centre diff and high/low range are seperate. Does that mean you can use low range without the centre diff locked? If so I am thinking this would be useful for trailer parking. Have not tried it myself only have access to hard pavement at the moment and don't want to...

Ok so we traded in the 90 for a 2016 150 series. Manual transmission and the 1GD engine, 220kkm on the clock. It's a country car so apart from the orange dust in some hard to get places I am hoping the clutch is still in good condition.

I did consider it but divorce will be a major faff after 23 years! I should have checked whilst we were dating. Sounds like you did well though haha. Yes would have to check rust but most cars here have little or no rust unless abandoned for decades. That said beach 4wd is popular and if...

So we are in the situation of the moment of having 2 cars - the 2000 Prado 90 and a 2009 Mitsubishi Lancer. We don't need 2 cars any more and are considering selling them and buying a better and diesel 4wd. We need to talk to the bank so nothing's decided but I think the LC 100 or 200 is way...

I wondered about this too! Mine is S3408.

Yes from under the car. The starter is usually on on side but to the rear of the engine and is connected to the bell housing in some way.

I have not done the shifter bushes myself but I would attempt it - it's a job done entirely in the cabin, you don't need to go under the car. New hinges might be hard but Amayama or Partsouq are both great places. Other than that if you have a 4wd scrapyard that might have some. You'd want to...

1. This is a common issue and is down to worn bushes in the shifter assembly. Any mechanic should be able to do this. 2. Normal for a car this old but you could find something to wedge in the gap or maybe try some silicone lubricant if it's a rubbing noise. 3. I think I've read on this...

Nice to find one that's done more than mine (404000km)!

Alternator isn't charging the battery. The rest (brake, filter) are on because of this. First step is to measure the voltage on the battery with the motor running. If this is less than 13.5v then something is causing the alternator not to work. Could be duff battery, broken belt or wiring or...

I guess that's possible, my one does look thinner. However the Australian market ones do not have catalytic converters or even oxygen sensors so the exhaust system is likely to be different.

That's the crossover pipe. Connects the passenger side exhaust manifold under the transmission into to the exhaust system.

One thing to remember that in that park/neutral state you'll need to hold the car on the handbrake or foot brake as the transmission park will not have any effect.

Don't think there are indicators for the range just if the centre diff is locked or not but you need to drive some distance (a few hundred metres) to get it to lock. If it's auto then you should see an A/T P light when the transmission is in P and the transfer case is in neutral. If you aren't...

Good luck!

For sure - you need to remove the transfer case and transmission to replace the rear main seal. And if it was fine before chances are something has gone astray during reassembly.

Yes it does have a manual fallback if you unplug it. Shifts might be a bit sudden and I think you can only select 1st 2nd or 4th given there are only 3 forward positions on the lever.

Could it be that the ECU detects a high but not critical ATF temperature and precluding the use of overdrive which could cause a lot more heat at least in the torque converter? When I go on long journeys I'm usually towing so disable overdrive as mentioned in the manual. But haven't noticed...

Won't change until higher rpm if you are demanding lot of throttle and will also change higher if you have ECT PWR on. There is also an overdrive lockout on the gearstick but you do get an OD OFF warning for this. There are only 2 solenoids for gear change so if you have 1st through 3rd I'd say...

I think if there was a lot to worry about you'd know from the pan contents. I guess you can disassemble the filter or examine with a torch and check inside but I think they are just a screen inside. As long as the valve body looks ok from the bottom I don't know what else to suggest apart from...

Weird? Could be grease that clutch material has stuck to? Anything similar in the pan?

Greasy or dry? Kind of looks like greasy fingerprints from someone holding it in place. Anything else odd like the fluid looking wrong?

4 years now, have had my other car (Mitsubishi Lancer) for 14 years nearly. No plans to change.

Yes HL (centre diff locked) would be needed if you've disconnected one of the driveshafts. Otherwise the centre diff will drive the easiest one, the disconnected front drive, and it'll be double the usual speed hence the vibration possibly. I am not a mechanic but I don't see this causing...

Hopefully, this did happen once before and it was mixed with a mild slap to the top of the dash. Not this time though. Could yours be crappy connections on the cluster connectors? Might be worth cleaning these up with a toothbrush and alcohol.

Just 2mm over will be perfectly fine. It'll get used up soon enough in these older motors!

That's odd. Usually the range switch will inhibit starting unless in park or neutral. My D light is out too, got to pull out the cluster and replace that light and some illumination bulbs.

That should be fine for your climate. I use 15W-40 in mind but it rarely gets colder than 10degC here.

No this isn't a hard job. When I've done jobs like this I put the small parts like bolts into separate ziplock bags and label them. Good mechanics gloves are good for these types of jobs. Got to do the same job on my 5VZ at some stage.

There are quite a few 4WD wreckers here on the east coast of Australia and I've seen quite a few manual tranny 1KZs about. Could the 120 1KZ manual transfer case also fit I wonder - the 120 diesel was 1KZ for a couple of years here at least. I know shipping will be a PITA from here but...

Hilux is not an AWD system. So unlikely to fit the Prado's shafts even if it will mount ok to the tranny.

Yeah it's a nice size, 4x7 and easily manovered by hand. I think there's a limit on vehicle plus trailer to be less than 4.5 tons to use dump tickets (each household gets 10 x 100kg tickets a year). You can just pay cash to dump stuff though if you are out of this range. My car plus the...

Currently borrowing a box trailer from a mate. Done a 200kg green waste and a 400kg general waste dump so far. Probably one more to go before I take it back. Trailer is a 2009 model but fully refurbished including a new floor about 2 yrs ago.

I don't think there's an easy way to do this without desoldering and reprogramming the EEPROM in the ECU. Best to solve the problem, check connections and transponder coil etc.