1. Strip out fan hosing (it makes the job easier if you strip out the radiator too)
2. Take off the timing belt cover
3. Take off EGR Assy.
4. Number both ends of all 6 injector pipes and remove, also remove electrical plugs and pipes
5. Loosen the Alternator and remove belts
6. Loosen the bracket from the viscous heater (if fitted) and remove belt
7. Remove the four nuts (12mm socket) on back of the pump. Note only two of these bolts are visible, the two between the pump and the block need a long 1/4" drive bar
8. Using a socket (1 1/4" I think) rotate the crank pulley clockwise until the BDC marks on No 1 pulley (end of cam) align and the no2 pulley on the Injection pump align
9. Loosen No2 pulley enough to unscrew the large nut on the end of the IP's shaft
10. Remove the two stays that fix the IP to the engine block
11. Using a press push out the IP on the pulley side (Press pushes out the large nut on the end of the IP's shaft)
Sounds easy, but it took me about a day and a half.
Pics below (Questions welcomed):
Front of engine stripped out...
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Alignment for No1 pulley BDC / No pulley on IP
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Injection pump with injection pipes, electrical plugs, stays removed
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IP pump press
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With IP removed - this shows the location of the two 12mm nuts that cannot be seen at the back of the IP (bit of a pain to remove)
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IP out - took out injectors too (might as well have them sonically cleaned and spray pattern tested)
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This is the correct SST - goes without saying that it's pretty easy to make your own.
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Needless to say that whilst you have your engine this stripped down you might as well do the following:
Change the timing belt plus tensioner and pulley (they are 90K miles intervals), alternator belts (x2), viscous heater belts and water pump, valve clearances and it you are removing your injectors, they need to be installed with new o'rings and seals between injectors and injector pipes. I'm also going to do engine and gearbox oils / filters, fuel filter and coolant.
Also if your car is before, I think it's 2003 /4 it's worth inspecting the plug for the spill valve. There's a TSB from Toyo and a kit to renew this plug due to the connections becoming poor over time. Unfortunately some dealers can't find the bulletin and even if they know what they are talking about, they won't supply the parts. I got a quote a few years back for the modification and it was £400 for splicing an electrical plug onto the loom. Anyway if you car doesn't start after priming the filter, you can test the spill valve plug by making a small nick in both wires near the plug (just enough to allow you to connect with a multimeter). Both wires should buzz out when testing for continuity.