2001 - 100 Series Auto Transmission Issues

[Letho100]

Hi Guys, only just found this forum, what an awesome collection of knowledge there is on here!!!!
Obviously my first post but I've got an issue with my auto trans in our 100 series.
It's the 4.2 Factory turbo diesel model and the problem is only intermittent though most often when the car is cold.
When slowing to a stop when the gear box would be in say 3rd or 4th gear from 80klms or so, the gear box seems to stay in that gear and will shudder, when eventually it will clunk heavily out of that gear when stopped. This will happen to the point where the car almost wants to stall( I usually slip it forward to N then into drive when stopped to take the pressure off everything ).
I've had the auto trans serviced and they couldn't find anything wrong with it.
Was wondering if it could be some other electronic sensor or similar not "telling" the box to shift down ????

Any ideas would be welcome, can't find anyone with any answers locally ( even the dealers).

Cheers,
Brian

 

[uHu]

This is a known problem on the early hdj100 with the 4-sp auto. It is a problem with the converter (TC). There is a TSB on it which your dealer will have. Almost all converters with that problem have been changed long time ago, as the problem normally appeared somewhere between 50' and 100' km. There are lotsa threads on this, here and on mud.
The converter was changed from 5 june 2001 production, VIN JTEHC05J904005603. The TSB has ref.no: CP−1018, titled: ATM Judder.
You have not given many details on your cruzah, so it's hard to say if this matches.

 

[Letho100]

This is a known problem on the early hdj100 with the 4-sp auto. It is a problem with the converter (TC). There is a TSB on it which your dealer will have. Almost all converters with that problem have been changed long time ago, as the problem normally appeared somewhere between 50' and 100' km. There are lotsa threads on this, here and on mud.
The converter was changed from 5 june 2001 production, VIN JTEHC05J904005603. The TSB has ref.no: CP−1018, titled: ATM Judder.
You have not given many details on your cruzah, so it's hard to say if this matches.

Mate you are a legend, I have been asking in all the wrong places for an answer to this. Will have to check the build date of my cruiser to see if it was built prior to this.
Sorry for the lack of details, the message was starting to get a little long winded and I didn't want to put people off. It is 2001 built but not sure of month.
I haven't had much to do with these though and was wondering what you meant by a TSB, TC is short for torque converter? Would love to get this issue put to bed, I love this wagon, one of the best I came across.

Thanks so much for your response

 

[Ben Stratford]

Technical Service Bulletin?

 

[uHu]

Sorry about the abbreviations, but I see all was understood correctly. Just check if your VIN is a lower number than listed. How many km-s has it covered?

 

[Letho100]

Sorry about the abbreviations, but I see all was understood correctly. Just check if your VIN is a lower number than listed. How many km-s has it covered?

Just had a look at the VIN number and build date, was built Dec. 2000 and VIN stamped 01/01. VIN = JTEHC09J407001287 so is well before number you've quoted. Does this mean replacing the TC ?
It's just clocked up 304,000klms (I've had it from 255,000) but still going strong. Just done the timing belt etc. Was purchased from a friend who got it from his father, has a full service history never towed more than a box trailer and never on the beach. Completely stock with no modifications, am looking into re-doing the suspension as it's getting a little tired but otherwise is a great car.
Thanks again for your help.

 

[Sumerian]

This is a known problem on the early hdj100 with the 4-sp auto. It is a problem with the converter (TC). There is a TSB on it which your dealer will have. Almost all converters with that problem have been changed long time ago, as the problem normally appeared somewhere between 50' and 100' km. There are lotsa threads on this, here and on mud.
The converter was changed from 5 june 2001 production, VIN JTEHC05J904005603. The TSB has ref.no: CP−1018, titled: ATM Judder.
You have not given many details on your cruzah, so it's hard to say if this matches.

@uHu

Hi UHU,

I have a 2001 LC 100 SERIES, I had a problem with the gearbox, when I was in the D it was like I was on neutral, tried to change to lower gear but nothing changes. I stopped and send it to the mechanic, he said The automatic transmission need to be replaced and that cost 2500$, I asked him to change the oil and try to fix it which what he did, but now when I am between the 70km/h and 80km/hr the gear shudder, I am not sure about the problem if I have to replace the transmission, in case of a transmission replacement would it be easy to replace my automatic transmission to manual?

 

[Sumerian]

This is a known problem on the early hdj100 with the 4-sp auto. It is a problem with the converter (TC). There is a TSB on it which your dealer will have. Almost all converters with that problem have been changed long time ago, as the problem normally appeared somewhere between 50' and 100' km. There are lotsa threads on this, here and on mud.
The converter was changed from 5 june 2001 production, VIN JTEHC05J904005603. The TSB has ref.no: CP−1018, titled: ATM Judder.
You have not given many details on your cruzah, so it's hard to say if this matches.

Hi Uhu,
I have a 2001 LC 100 SERIES, I had a problem with the gearbox, when I was in the D it was like I was on neutral, tried to change to lower gear but nothing changes. I stopped and send it to the mechanic, he said The automatic transmission need to be replaced and that cost 2500$, I asked him to change the oil and try to fix it which what he did, but now when I am between the 70km/h and 80km/hr the gear shudder, I am not sure about the problem if I have to replace the transmission, in case of a transmission replacement would it be easy to replace my automatic transmission to manual?



Land Cruiser 100, 4477CC, I6, 2001, GXR.

Model FZJ100L-GNPNKV

Engine 1FZ-FE

 

[ATOR]

G'Day all.
I am having a similar issue in an 02 105 series auto. Somewhere around 70kmh under normal acceleration I get a jolting / surging thing going on. It seems to be rev range related though as it will only do it with OD on, if it begins to shutter I can flick the OD off, the revs obviously come up and the shudder stops or you can just increase acceleration and again the jolting stops. I have noticed lately when under load the heat is climbing to an uncomfortable level which is of greater concern to me than the shuddering. (I'm assuming there is a correlation)
I have been putting off pulling out the TC until I can confirm this is the prob, the shudder has been there since I bought it last year however now progressively worse however the heat is only recent, especially under tow.
Any constructive input would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers

 

[Hutton]

I would be interested to know the solution to this problem as my cruiser displays these symptoms.

 

[Elk]

Hi lads, I'm experiencing the same problem with my auto. Did you find a solution in the end?

 

[GraemeBP]

Similar problems, mine started with replacing the radiator, I thought excessive ATF had drained as I could not go forward or reverse, I drained and replaced fluid , still same , somebody said filter may be blocked , bought new filter new fluid , still nothing, was told solenoids may be faulty , took them out did test , were not clicking open or closed, a Very long story short , ordered 3 times through eBay , Toyota quoted R28 000 , they cost less than R600 through eBay but got lost twice and finally a traveling friend brought the 4 solenoids in his luggage. Replaced solenoids now only reverse works . Forward gears are like the vehicle is in neutral.
My research ses if there is reverse then the torque converter is ok , I don't know how to find the servo for adjustment/ checking.
Any suggestions would be hugely appreciated

 

[Lano1]

Just had a look at the VIN number and build date, was built Dec. 2000 and VIN stamped 01/01. VIN = JTEHC09J407001287 so is well before number you've quoted. Does this mean replacing the TC ?
It's just clocked up 304,000klms (I've had it from 255,000) but still going strong. Just done the timing belt etc. Was purchased from a friend who got it from his father, has a full service history never towed more than a box trailer and never on the beach. Completely stock with no modifications, am looking into re-doing the suspension as it's getting a little tired but otherwise is a great car.
Thanks again for your help.

Hi Letho100
Am in the same position as you with 230k on the clock. Has been an issue now for the last 20,000km and only recently got the same advice as uHu provided above. Can I ask if you replaced the TC and all is now ok?
Much appreciated
Lano1

 

[Lano1]

Sorry about the abbreviations, but I see all was understood correctly. Just check if your VIN is a lower number than listed. How many km-s has it covered?

Hi uHu, I seen you on ih8mud forum and am in the same position as Letho100 was now with 230k on my clock. This has been an issue now for the last 20,000km for me and only recently got the same “here say” advice as you provided above. Can I ask if you replaced the TC with a genuine Toyota part and all is now ok? Or did you just get a rebuild?? I cannot find anyone local that has come across this issue before so I am wary of incorrect diagnosis even though I have provided the TSB with rego number and title that you have outlined here and on mud.
Any advice is much appreciated.
Thanks very much
Lano1

 

[uHu]

....Can I ask if you replaced the TC with a genuine Toyota part and all is now ok? Or did you just get a rebuild?? ....

I got that car totalled before I got as far as fixing the TC. Replaced the MY 2000 with a MY 2004, with the 5 step auto and no TC problem.
If your car is within the S/N range specified in the TSB, it should be easy to diagnose. Especially in your LC heaven down under. Those TC bearings shouldn't have lasted as long as yours though, so I'm a bit surprised that it didn't fail long ago. Side effect of disintegrating ceramic bearings is that you can get fragments all over (or rather inside ) your auto box. Many have changed TC without any further problems tho'.

 

[Lano1]

I got that car totalled before I got as far as fixing the TC. Replaced the MY 2000 with a MY 2004, with the 5 step auto and no TC problem.
If your car is within the S/N range specified in the TSB, it should be easy to diagnose. Especially in your LC heaven down under. Those TC bearings shouldn't have lasted as long as yours though, so I'm a bit surprised that it didn't fail long ago. Side effect of disintegrating ceramic bearings is that you can get fragments all over (or rather inside ) your auto box. Many have changed TC without any further problems tho'.

Cheers for the TSB uHu!! Was searching for that. Spoke to parts rep at Newtown Toyota and a modified TC is available from Japan for $3k. We only do around 10,000km a year in the vehicle but it has been playing up for the past few years with the exact description outlined above and has definitely been more frequently (not just when cold) in recent times. Do you think the best course of action is to get the new part and follow Field Fix method as per TSB or just keep driving til she dies?

 

[uHu]

Change TC asap, before it spreads (more) particles around the gearbox. Fragments of the bearings, or was it thrust washers, will travel by ATF. Fixing the auto-box will cost much more than only the TC.

There was a post somewhere describing what parts inside the TC were bad (maybe on LCool, or mud). Thrust washer makes sense, as it feels like the two "disks" of the TC are stuck together until you can get the pressure down and make them freewheel again.

 

[Lano1]

Change TC asap, before it spreads (more) particles around the gearbox. Fragments of the bearings, or was it thrust washers, will travel by ATF. Fixing the auto-box will cost much more than only the TC.

There was a post somewhere describing what parts inside the TC were bad (maybe on LCool, or mud). Thrust washer makes sense, as it feels like the two "disks" of the TC are stuck together until you can get the pressure down and make them freewheel again.

Roger that!! Thanks very much uHu. Will get onto it