Boost Gauge?

[Shayne]

Sadly i remain unconvinced , if the turbo is set to ram 14psi into the pipework intercooler or not that's exactly what it will do leak or no leak . There is no electrickery on the 1kz-te to second guess the mechanical wastegate which might be described as a blow off valve and i ask where does the back pressure come from to open the wastegate if the pipework is not filling to the set pressure ?

Sadly because if i thought 14psi at the actuator only showed 12psi at the pressure sensor i would up the boost some more .

I left my truck outside a pub yesterday but if it stops raining by the time i get it back i might experiment by connecting the gauge to the intercooler .

 

[Dieseldragon]

My point about saying why you want to measure boost pressure is are you measuring what your turbo is doing? Or checking what boost is going into the engine because you have tuned the engine?
On my defender 90, I had a massive oversize intercooler, and had upped the boost pressure, hence wanting to measure at the intake.
If you haven't modified anything, then it doesn't matter where you put it.

 

[Beau]

I think theres some confusion going around. The 1KZT-E turbo is pretty quick spooling and on the standard manifold setup, it's a very short run before entering the intake. In a setup like this, I am pretty certain what the boost actuator is showing is 99% close to what the intake boost pressure would be. To confirm this, toyota's boost readings are taken on the inlet side, being that it's probably the easier of the two positions to read off.

Now, on other turbo cars, with rubber hoses, various IC piping ect, there will certainly be some boost drop from the turbo to intake, which is why some tuners prefer to take a intake pressure reading. Electronic boost modules actually take two readings so you can see your turbo pressure and intake pressure.

Now even with Shayne's IC setup, it's a top mount and IC piping is short so I doubt you'll have any boost loss. Shayne, it'll be interesting to see at what point the ECU kicks in. Majority of people say 14 PSI is the limit!

 

[Umar]

I had a look at the pipe off the actuator and bwoy does it look difficult to get to even then I'm thinking that the pipe is too short to get a tee in there the tee is quite wide and the pipe has too many bends,it will be even harder to tighten small jubilee clips on the tee. So one other idea I have is tapping into the rubber hose between the turbo and the inlet pipe the only thing that puts me off is that I have seen a pipe tail which is held on with a hex nut on the inside if ever that was to come loose for any reason the engine would swallow it and would more that likely screw the engine, your thoughts please

 

[Beau]

You're better using longer tubes on both sides and running it up somewhere in the engine bay. They you can T off easier.

 

[Umar]

Does the length of that pipe not alter function in any way?

 

[Shayne]

It looks daunting before you go in there the first time Umar but there's nothing complicated about it , 2 jubilee clips and 1 bolt to remove the intake pipe , and then take off the exhaust manifold heat shield which has about six 8mm bolts in it and you will at least be able to see what your doing . Remove the actuator pipe altogether T your gauge into it so when you put it back the pipe is actually a little longer which will give you some leverage .

My actuator pipe is about a foot long now because i needed to bolt the controller somewhere but it makes no difference .

If you fancy a little more boost from your turbo you might want to do the washer mod while your in there ?

 

[Umar]

Shayne, what's the washer mod?, I've read that you can also plumb near the ecu boost sensor anyone heard of this?

 

[Shayne]

The ecu pressure sensor is on the intake manifold right front corner of your engine (as you stand in front of the car looking in) it just an electrical connection and you will identify it because it has a little plastic filter with a vacuum pipe attached . That's where i was going to tap into to test the debate mentioned earlier in this thread .

Washer mod takes place under the actuator pipes so if your not going in there its not worth discussing .

Shame your not going in there really because its a confidence builder and you can't really do it wrong . This is the first car i have ever attempted to work on and i remember looking at those same pipes a couple of years ago with dread , but i got stuck in and it quickly became obvious how simple it all is which gave me a better understanding of my engine . I have nobody to lend a hand and the only advice i can get comes from this forum , yet i replaced the turbo myself just recently and it was easy because once you understand what a thing does and why it does it putting things back together in the right order becomes child's play .

 

[Umar]

As the intake pipes are off due to the cam cover change I'm gonna have a go at the actuator pipe, tbh this is the first truck I've worked on and the most scariest job for me was removing the lift kit out and replacing it with standard suspension all on my drive with no specialist tools and I managed that fine

 

[Shayne]

good for you there really is nothing to it . When you remove the intake pop a glove over the hole because you don't want to drop a nut or washer in there . The heater pipes running down the side of the engine are a pita when removing the heatshield but just shut your eyes and rattle the shield every which way you can and it will come out without mucking with those pipes . Just pull the crank breather off the head and fold it out of the way (mine doesn't even have a clip holding it in place) .

And then you will see its just a bit of rubber pipe with a clip either end , a bit fiddly but nothing challenging about it .

The washer mod is unbolting your actuator and popping a couple of washers between it and the bracket it is bolted to . Again the how where and what of it will become obvious as you proceed . This was a little more challenging because although i could get a spanner on the lower bolt there was no way i could grab it with my fingers . In the end i made this to slot over the bolt and tighten up against so i didn't have to remove the bolt completely .

2mm thick washers are generally considered to be well within the safe zone .

 

[Umar]

Do I need to up the fueling in any way?

 

[Shayne]

I don't think you need to . With your truck at 180k+ miles i'm inclined to think the washer mod will do more to bring your tired actuator back into spec than it will to up the boost . You might want to up the fuel though which is a different thing . Its a 2 minute job and you could do it while wearing a white suit on your way to a wedding .

On top of your fuel pump there is a little steel cap , pull it of with pliers and underneath you will see a 12mm locking nut holding i think its a 7mm smaller nut . Mark it so you can always return things to original . Turn the small nut clockwise to up the fuel . I advise no more than a quarter of a turn at a time between taking it for a test run .

There's a pic over here somewhere , in fact my whole learning curve is in there because i had to ask all the same questions and i'm only sharing the answers i was given by other forum members http://www.landcruiserclub.net/forums/showthread.php/49574-Elecronic-Diesel-Tuning-Devices

 

[Shayne]

Just found my own pic on google images showing how to turn up the fuel while i was searching for steering parts anyway here you go

 

[Umar]

Thanks dude