Elecronic Diesel Tuning Devices

[Shayne]

Nanni 4.390 took me a while to find the marine version of the 1kz , 200 hp as standard

 

[Beau]

Nanni 4.390 took me a while to find the marine version of the 1kz , 200 hp as standard

Just had a search, sweeeeet! I imagine they can achieve that kinda power due to the constant cooling of the motor, plus a very efficient inter-cooler setup, plus a mechanical pump!

 

[Shayne]

I don't know but i have 7 pages minimized as i type this trying to find out max revs are 3400 which i think is the same as our trucks so it looks like just stronger components allowing tighter tolerances , and of course a watercooled exhaust manifold .

It was wondering if there is a marine version electric pump we could use that set me off on this wild goose chase

 

[Shayne]

Toyota's Ponam-31 boat gets 256hp from their 3L 4cylinder prado engines .

 

[Beau]

I think out RPM limit is 4200. But it's understandably why they'd limit the RPM to 3400 on a boat, as with a boat you're generally on the topper RPM band.

From some of the pictures I've seen, it looks like they're using the mechanical pump, that are on the normal 1KZT engines. I'm not that surprised with the power figures. I've heard a few crazy guys who are pushing close to 300hp and heaps of torque using a mechanical pump, IC and heaps of boost! The internals of these engines can take a lot of abuse.

 

[Iwan]

Interesting that is... had a quick look this morning. I found a UK parts seller for the nanni 4.390. I am wondering if they have the manual fuel pump in stock.. I have recently been messing about fitting a daihatsu rocky 2.8td denso pump to my year 2000 collorado 1kzt (e) engine. Its running but need to buy the correct timing dial gauge.

Its all fun!

 

[Shayne]

I assume you mean peachment i deal with them all the time because my boat has 2 nanni diesels in it (kubota base i believe) sad news is their prices are extortionate .

I am starting to think the fuel pump is the only real component difference on the marine motor .

Camshaft is ground to alter timing valve and injectors are the same but are adjusted to a different spec the aim being to allow the motor to shift 10 tonne with the same ease we pull off in first gear .

Can't find any info on the turbo so that might be different ?

As far as cooling goes i don't think it matters , a boat engine is usually locked into a very small and near watertight compartment so no airflow and it is cooled by water instead . My boats egt is what you might expect to see in your truck so i would guess its a necessary alternative arrangement rather than an improved one .

So there you go Iwan your just the man to experiment with this let us no when you have had a Nanni camshaft , pump and workshop manual delivered

 

[Iwan]

Thats the one ..Peachment in Norfolk I believe. .. if they're too expensive with their manual fuel pump. I guess I will stick to fiddling with my 50 quid daihatsu pump.. lol

 

[Beau]

I reckon they'll want a lot for the pumps. You can get hold of highly tuned hybrid mechanical pumps in NZ for about $1200 which are made to work with boost in the regions of 15-30psi.

 

[peter_kzj78]

the modified marine pump sounds nice, higher boost, etc. but how are you going to cool it down in your truck?

plenty of other mods possible, look here and use search from there on 1KZ-T(E)http://www.offroadexpress.kiwi/Forums/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=17578


cheers
peter

 

[Shayne]

Thanks Peter i skimmed through the info in your link and i think most of it is contained in this thread . I have an intercooler , 3" turboback exhaust , manual boost controller , a high flow air filter and adjusted fuel settings . All of this does make a very obvious difference in 1kz performance .

The thing is most who have contributed to this thread drive a KZJ90 which has a 1KZ-TE engine and the -TE is the limiting factor . These engines can cope with a far higher boost but the electric fuel pump is controlled by the ecu , we can turn it up a bit but not enough to allow maximum boost .

Replacing the pump with a manual one is the way forward but they are rarer than chickens teeth and harder to find than an honest politician .

A well tuned motor should not increase running temps .

 

[peter_kzj78]

Thanks Peter i skimmed through the info in your link and i think most of it is contained in this thread . I have an intercooler , 3" turboback exhaust , manual boost controller , a high flow air filter and adjusted fuel settings . All of this does make a very obvious difference in 1kz performance .

The thing is most who have contributed to this thread drive a KZJ90 which has a 1KZ-TE engine and the -TE is the limiting factor . These engines can cope with a far higher boost but the electric fuel pump is controlled by the ecu , we can turn it up a bit but not enough to allow maximum boost .

Replacing the pump with a manual one is the way forward but they are rarer than chickens teeth and harder to find than an honest politician .

A well tuned motor should not increase running temps .

I know, same issue, my KZJ78 is als the 1KZ-TE. no way to get a manual pump... I have ordered a chip tuning box which first came for Bosch VP 44 and didn´t work with the Denso, now waiting for the right one... this should allow higher boost beyond what is manually achievable with our pump. will see.... not too expensive, hope it will work

tuning goes beyond boosting power, you are right.

 

[Shayne]

We think 14psi of boost is where the ecu will get upset , i'm running just under that and haven't tried to go beyond yet . Maybe when i have my winch fitted the extra weight at the front will keep wheels grounded instead spinning on dry tarmac which would encourage me to seek more power .

 

[Beau]

There are ways around the boost cut at 14psi. Basically tricking the ECU sensor that it's only getting the max and no more... Problem is you'll run out of fuel on the electronic pump with anything over 16psi+ so there's no real point. Alternatively, you can play with the resistors at the side of the pump. This is the more clever way to get more power and economy as it can be adjusted throughout the range. This is way out of field though, I don't play much with electrics sadly!

 

[Shayne]

Your comment has been bouncing around in my head all night Beau and i have been looking for an alternative perspective . Your runaway engine tell's us we can turn the fuel up way too far without ecu interference so only boost pressure is the limiting factor .

I know nothing about electronics but i wonder if some sort of electrickery could prevent any boost signal below say 5psi , set the fuel screw so it doesn't run too lean , then at 6psi the ecu notes boost and increases fuel right up to 19psi .

Might that work ?

 

[Beau]

Your comment has been bouncing around in my head all night Beau and i have been looking for an alternative perspective . Your runaway engine tell's us we can turn the fuel up way too far without ecu interference so only boost pressure is the limiting factor .

I know nothing about electronics but i wonder if some sort of electrickery could prevent any boost signal below say 5psi , set the fuel screw so it doesn't run too lean , then at 6psi the ecu notes boost and increases fuel right up to 19psi .

Might that work ?

If I understand fully what you're saying...which I'm not 100% sure, then no.

Because when the engine is boosting very low, the ECU knows this and matches the fuel for that turbo boost. So 5psi boost will have less fuel than 15psi. I think on the standard ECU and pump, the max you could do is clock your boost to maybe 15-20PSI, trick the boost sensor to see no more than 15psi (or whatever the limit is). Tweak the fuel to the max possible. Then use resistors to advance the timing.

 

[Shayne]

I didn't explain very well , what if i said at 6psi the ecu registered 1psi , at 7 ecu registers 2psi and so on up the scale .

Before boost comes in the fuel air mix depends on where we set the fuel screw so we might have to run a bit rich low down to make up for the lack of fuel while boosting up to 5psi without the ecu knowing or automatically increasing fuel volume . At 6psi the ecu recognizes the need for more fuel and will continue to increase fuel volume right up to 19psi

Does that clarify ?

 

[Beau]

I didn't explain very well , what if i said at 6psi the ecu registered 1psi , at 7 ecu registers 2psi and so on up the scale .

Before boost comes in the fuel air mix depends on where we set the fuel screw so we might have to run a bit rich low down to make up for the lack of fuel while boosting up to 5psi without the ecu knowing or automatically increasing fuel volume . At 6psi the ecu recognizes the need for more fuel and will continue to increase fuel volume right up to 19psi

Does that clarify ?

I think I get you, but I still think what I wrote above applies. If we're actually boosting at 6psi, but the ECU thinks it's 1PSI, then it will fuel for 1PSI worth of boost. When we're seeing 19PSI boost, they ECU will see 14PSI boost, which again, I'm not sure how the mixture will work. I understand the concept that you'll maintain a steady fuel delivery curve alongside your boost levels, but if this is too low and your mixture is too lean then I don't know if it'll work.

Boost and fuel go hand in hand, with a increase in one you have to increase the other, but the correct mixture is vital for the best burn, low EGT and your power band. Now these electronic pumps aren't too bad in the sense how they smartly advance timing in the RPM range to pull more power out the engine by fine tuning timing - something you can't do with a mechanical pump. However, the ECU is also programmed for emissions which is where I believe there is a bucket of power to be unleashed.

I say this, because I had my fuel turned up to the max I could with a little black smoke for a good few years, and yet, the emission results from various MOT's came back with good results and always passed. In fact, a couple of them came back cleaner than when the engine was running leaner. That I can't really explain...

 

[Shayne]

Depends how it calculates i guess would i be right in thinking the boost compensator diaphragm on the manual pumps is little more than an on/off switch ?

If so the obvious improvement while moving into the digital age would be to swap on/off arrangement to a progressive increase in fuel volume during boost thus saving fuel and giving a cleaner burn (more power)

Remember this is a secondary function so fuel volume increases with engine speed regardless of boost .

 

[Firewout]

Depends how it calculates i guess would i be right in thinking the boost compensator diaphragm on the manual pumps is little more than an on/off switch ?.

It's a bit more than that. The boost compensator diaphragm pushes a rod with a cone. If you change the form of the cone, you change the boost response carateristic. More info here http://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/the-official-1hd-t-ft-fuel-pump-mod-tuning-thread.728533/