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Front Bash Plate

Sam

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 12, 2011
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506
Garage
Hi all. The front bash plate on our 120 is now rusted pretty badly and we probably need to think about repacing it. The real issue is that someone has rounded off the 2 rear bolts (set up into the plate) that are going to be a real mission to get out. Might have to cut the plate off to get to them (got some of the bolt removal sockets but they didn't touch them - I think the bolt heads are too shallow) :icon-rolleyes:

The question is, what are my options for a new plate? Aside from the obvious attempt to source one from a breakers (not so easy), I can't find underbody protection anywhere on the usual parts diagrams - but I'm not sure if it's the best option anyway ... aftermarket?

Any thoughts / experience would be appreciated at this point. Not sure which direction to go :think:
 
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Bought this Asifir sump guard over 10 years ago,thick aluminum plate,fits perfectly,it'll last longer than the car...
 
Wow ... that does look thick. I'll have a look at their site and put it on the options list. Cheers :thumbup:
 
Hi Sam,

I've just ordered one from Rival for my 100. Just a basic 2mm steel one to replace the standard, which like yours was in poor condition. Won't be anything like the ASFIR one above, but it was by far the cheapest option.

I can post some photos when it arrives if you like?

For the bolts, can you get your hands on an extractor set?
 
That looks very clean, are you even hitting anything that needs protecting from? Just get an OE plate from a breakers and done.
 
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For the bolts, can you get your hands on an extractor set?

Yeah I did - and they didn't help at all. I suspect that the head of the bolt is too shallow for the extractor to get a grip - even with some firm hammer encouragement. It wasn't the best extractor set to be fair so it could be that - but looking at the bolt it only seems to have touched the very top edge. It's quite a flat bolt.

I'll check out the Rival too - thanks for the tip :thumbup:
 
Bought this Asifir sump guard over 10 years ago,thick aluminum plate,fits perfectly,it'll last longer than the car...

Ditto, got the same on the 120. A real piece of quality kit. I had the same on the Collie too and bought the plate as soon as I got the 120.
 
Yeah I did - and they didn't help at all. I suspect that the head of the bolt is too shallow for the extractor to get a grip - even with some firm hammer encouragement. It wasn't the best extractor set to be fair so it could be that - but looking at the bolt it only seems to have touched the very top edge. It's quite a flat bolt.

I'll check out the Rival too - thanks for the tip :thumbup:

Post a pic of the bolts you cant get out; I forget how the OEM plates are mounted
 
Youre better off going for aftermarket types, as any from a breaker will probably be rotten anyway,
They are not of any thickness to throw off flies in the first place !
Mine was rotten/had pieices missing and I had to cut/rip off what was left to get at the bolts using heat and an impact socket.
 
Post a pic of the bolts you cant get out; I forget how the OEM plates are mounted

Got a couple of terrible shots of the plates in a rush - but I've made them much better with a touch of professional editing to show where the bolts are.
Two front bolts are pretty easy to get to (and not stuck of course) - but the back two are inset into the plate. Might have been over gunned by someone at a garage - but could just be old and strong as cake. You can probably see that the extractor set barely touched the rim of the bolts - and they had quite a bit of persuasion to get on there (you can see where the socket was hitting the back of the plate bracket too - bolt head likely too shallow for the extractor).


plate1.jpg


plate2.jpg


I would have left this alone (I checked that I can get onto the crank bolt for the valve clearance check from the top) - but I happened to "brush" the radiator with my finger while I was under there and the fins literally fell to dust. The slightest delicate touch makes holes. :doh: I'm going to want the plate gone to replace that. It's one thing leading to another at the moment - and with every big "price it up" I'm doing, I've got one nervous eye on the orange chassis :lol: ......
 
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Left handed drill bit (Dormer usually good) might shift them.
 
Left handed drill bit (Dormer usually good) might shift them.

That's probably my next try. The front two were torqued pretty tight though - I'm not confident. I can see me having to get the bolt head off to relieve the tension and hope the thread isn't seized. One step at a time I suppose. Feel like I need a new bash plate lined up first - or at least some new bolts :think: ... that's a good question ... what kind of bolt spec would I be after? Off down another rabbit hole ...
 
Did you try heat ??
Cut the old guard off for more access and grind off the bottom of a socket (not part of a set), so that it grabs the hex head as soon as you offer it, as a normal socket has several mm before it contacts. Use an impact type socket that matches the hex pattern bolt, it grips on all flats, not one of the 'splined' types that just grip on corners.
 
The basic Rival skid plate for my 100 arrived yesterday. Fairly straightforward to fit. They do well at coming up with plenty places to mount the plate using standard holes in crossmembers etc. Quite pleased so far – not a particularly tough off-road plate, but a good replacement for the rusty standard one, and will no doubt stand up to any minor bumps.

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IMG_6504.jpeg
 
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