Modified 1KZ-TE

[Shayne]

http://www.toyotadiesel.com/showthread.php?5851-My-Truck-on-going-project&

Pro's and cons of removing the throttle butterfly anybody ?

Also does anyone want to elaborate on the throttle body sensor mod , i think i would like to do the same ?

 

[Rich Sims]

no cons just a lot better air flow going it. I've done a few now..

Of coarse it does mean that the throttle position senser on the end of the shaft doesn't even have to be in the engine bay any more and can be moved inside the car or attached to the pedal!

 

[Shayne]

I have fitted an intercooler and other things that muck about with fuel air ratio which leaves me to guestimate how much to turn up the fuel . Basically i have set the fuel at the pump to run as rich as possible without producing clouds of black smoke on start up and the truck runs fine , but i feel it could be better , it feels to me like she runs rich in the low rev range while getting lean further up the scale .

 

[Beau]

I have fitted an intercooler and other things that muck about with fuel air ratio which leaves me to guestimate how much to turn up the fuel . Basically i have set the fuel at the pump to run as rich as possible without producing clouds of black smoke on start up and the truck runs fine , but i feel it could be better , it feels to me like she runs rich in the low rev range while getting lean further up the scale .

Shayne, that's the problem with adjusting the fuel at the actual pump. At low speeds and revs you don't actually need that much fuel as you're on constant boost already, but as you increase the revs you supply more fuel but proportionally not much of a increase in air, hence why you may be leaner on the top side and richer on the bottom. I don't think there's anything wrong with running a little rich on a Diesel, you may get slightly higher EGT but it would be small I imagine.

Regarding the throttle plate removal, it seems pretty popular on the Australian forum. I was going to do this at some point as well, I believe it'll increase the air flow a lot throughout the rev range and overall supply more air to the engine without the awkward restriction in place! Only downside I've read is you get a slightly rough shut down as the engine comes to a hault, I imagine this is because it's still getting plentiful supply of air but no fuel. Another con, is the possibility of a run away engine, but I think I'm getting ahead of myself here. Some guys have done the mod and have noticed no change in shutting down...

I reckon the next step you want to be looking at Shayne, is getting the max boost out of your Turbo, safely of course! Maybe nows a good time to use a bleed control valve on the waste gate line and up the boost a little. I would recommend you put a Boost guage in first. Being that you have a really good Exhaust system, I reckon you'll be fine on the heat side of things.

And also I like the intercooler setup but when I do mine, I think I'll fabricate the IC pipe to join at the side of the intake manifold as I've heard on the standard top intake it jams air down cyclinders 3 and 4 and leaves 1 and 2 struggling a little. You can kinda see this when looking at the intake...

 

[Shayne]

Running rich low down doesn't bother me Beau unless it gets smoky and that's the trouble . I think the truck would benefit from more fuel when moving at speed because that's when the cooler really comes into play . I found the thread i linked above because i was wondering if there is an oxygen sensor somewhere that talks to the pump ?

I've no reason to think there is i just dreamed up the option to move the sensor so it takes its reading from the cooler so fuel increases in synch with the air , its probably hogwash but researching such things can lead us down unknown paths

 

[Shayne]

With regards to the intercooler set up Beau i wouldn't worry to much the pressure in mine broke jubilee clips so i had to get heavy duty clamps and i still couldn't get it sealed for any length of time and ended up changing the silicone pipes when one bubbled .

 

[Shayne]

And this unknown path has revealed there is a pump specialist company in New Zealand that supplies Mitsubishi 4m40 mechanical fuel pumps ready modified to fit the 1KZTE , or at least they did in 2012 and all the discussions i've read about the swap offer that the fuel consumption of the 1KZTE is awful i thought mine was pretty good ...... suggests i can have more power and better mpg nah its one or the other a well tuned engine doesn't need to work as hard so yeah more power means better mpg ... if your driving a hearse

 

[Wingatui]

no cons just a lot better air flow going it. I've done a few now..

Of coarse it does mean that the throttle position senser on the end of the shaft doesn't even have to be in the engine bay any more and can be moved inside the car or attached to the pedal!

Rich! I know it's been 10 years since you posted this so fingers crossed this message gets to you! I've been searching high and low around the internet for a couple of months now trying to work out how I can remove the throttle body from my 1KZ-TE to fit a massive intercooler up top. I'm most of the way there. I just need to work out how to replace the throttle body with a simple flange on the intake manifold and somehow keep all the TPS intact and working. This is so the new wider intercooler isn't sitting up top high and touching the bonnet. How did you manage to achieve this?

Cheers mate, Sam

 

[Shayne]

It will be in here somewhere i think Elecronic Diesel Tuning Devices - [Leaving Land Cruiser Club]

 

[Wingatui]

It will be in here somewhere i think Elecronic Diesel Tuning Devices - [Leaving Land Cruiser Club]

Hi Shayne, great to see you're still around mate. I've been reading and learning from yours and Beau's posts for a couple of years now and feel like I missed the whole exciting period back in the 2010's of everyone modifying their 1KZ's. I've had no-one that is equally as enthused to share my journey haha.

Anyways, I had a look through that link you sent. Thank you! Lot's of chit chat of stuff I already know. Used the search function to try and narrow it down and the only solution I could find is to move over to mechanical setup. I've got the ECU controlled everything so that isn't gonna work for me unfortunately. I've got this later version of the throttle body which has a 6 pin TPS (instead of the usual 4 pin) and on the other side of the throttle body is what I think is the DC motor to control the opening/closing of the (removed) butterfly with a 2 pin plug coming out of it. One of these basically: https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/2q4AAOSwvCBkfYTq/s-l500.jpg So I'm trying to find assurance that I can remove the TPS and the other end unit of the main throttle body while keeping them still plugged in to the harness, and zip tied up out the way, if that will work or if the two ends of the throttle body need to be attached via that center butterfly control shaft? I could just keep the whole throttle body intact and tie it off to the side but I don't like that idea. Plus its too bulky. There isn't much room in my engine bay for that. ANy insight if you can remember would be greatly appreciated!

As you can see in the image below, the height of the intercooler i've custom made sits about 30mm too high. Working out how to remove the throttle body will allow me to drop the intercooler about 45mm.

 

[Shayne]

Long time ago and memory is vague but i removed the throttle butterfly completely deciding it had more to do with the EGR , which i had already blanked , and so it was unnecessary .

The TE of 1KZ-TE means electronic fuel pump so while i think yours looks a little different from mine i'd expect it functions the same , the difference being your had an intercooler fitted by Toyota and mine didn't .

I moved one sensor from throttle body into the intercooler itself and the other I actually found a connection to match already in the intake pipe (put there by Toyota) about a foot from the air filter box .

However a body lift is cheap as chips and infallible which solves your problem or a bonnet scoop to make room .

 

[Wingatui]

Long time ago and memory is vague but i removed the throttle butterfly completely deciding it had more to do with the EGR , which i had already blanked , and so it was unnecessary .

The TE of 1KZ-TE means electronic fuel pump so while i think yours looks a little different from mine i'd expect it functions the same , the difference being your had an intercooler fitted by Toyota and mine didn't .

I moved one sensor from throttle body into the intercooler itself and the other I actually found a connection to match already in the intake pipe (put there by Toyota) about a foot from the air filter box .

However a body lift is cheap as chips and infallible which solves your problem or a bonnet scoop to make room .

Ahh ok, your setup is quite a bit different. I'm guessing yours must be one of the ~1996 engines? And I think we're talking about different sensors? Sounds like you're talking about the intake air temp sensor and map sensor? The intake temps sensor on the older engines was placed just after the air filter (which is weird because it won't be picking up post turbo temps which are important for the combustion process). And the map sensor (one with the tube coming from the throttle body to the sensor via a little brown/beige filter) was attached to the crossover pipe just before the throttle body.

So on your throttle body, you would have had a spring-loaded mechanical accelerator cable adjuster on one side, and then a 4 pin electrical plug on the other. The accelerator pedal opens/closes the butterfly and the 4 pin plug reads the position of the butterfly and sends the info back to the ECU. So by deleting the throttle body, what happened to your TPS? Without it, you would have a 4 pin plug hanging loose and I'm presuming a confused ECU? Unless what you're saying is you detached the the TPS from the throttle body and left it plugged in but hanging? I just can't wrap my head around how that would work as the TPS needs to see changes occuring with the butterfly. Ugh this is doing my head in

My throttle body on the other hand doesn't have the accelerator cable and spring loaded butterfly. Mine has an electric motor opening and closing the butterfly instead. And then at the other end of the TB, is the TPS which detects the butterfly position and sends data back to the ECU. So to me it seems like separating the tps from the throttle body will cause big problems. I really need an auto electrician to tune in on this as I think my setup is a bit more complex and it's possible it can't be done.

I'll reassess the body lift option but last time I looked into it, you have to then extend break lines, the auto gear shifter goes out of alignment and a couple of other things that were not that appealing. It sounded like a right PITA.

Thanks for chiming in Shayne, appreciate the conversation

 

[Shayne]

Have a look just above steering rack at the splines connecting to steering wheel , from memory i'm inclined to think you could body lift an inch and still be on the spline so no need for a spacer in there .

I think the rear bumper might stretch enough to accommodate just an inch if it wasn't removed during the process and repositioning the front bumper is childs play . An inch should make no noticeable difference to gear stick or brake lines so the only other consideration is the radiator which from memory is held in place with 4 screws so you just drill 4 new holes an inch higher .

Might seem quiet daunting job but its not . Remove front bumper and detach radiator . Undo all the body mounts , jack up one side of the truck pop spacers in and replace bolts loose , same on the other side then tighten it all back up again . think my body lift was 2"done exactly like this though i did use a steering spacer .

 

[Wingatui]

I did a bit of googling on the body lift subject today following your suggestion. I'm not completely ruling it out. I have got a 2" suspension lift already which is the maximum legal limit I'm allowed where I live. We can have either a 50mm body lift or 50mm suspension lift. Anything beyond that needs an engineer's certificate. I don't usually care about the law in this sort of situation and would usually just bang on and do it, but the knock on effect is my insurance will become void which as I age, becomes a concern lol. I just installed a new steering rack a few weeks back and I reckon there might only be an inch overlap at the spline, but possibly a bit of leeway in the actual column? I'd have to double check. Apparently there are already holes for the radiator to drop into with the 90/95 series so that sounds easy. The gear shifter doesn't sound like an issue. I'll mull it over some more. I'm still determined to workout the throttle body delete haha Thanks again for the ideas!

 

[Shayne]

Mr Godzilla Universal Air Intake Bonnet Scoop For Most 4x4 4WD Snorkle - [Leaving Land Cruiser Club]

 

[Wingatui]

Mr Godzilla Universal Air Intake Bonnet Scoop For Most 4x4 4WD Snorkle - [Leaving Land Cruiser Club]

I've got.that exact one haha and I've cut the bonnet up heaps underneath.

 

[Wingatui]

I've got.that exact one haha and I've cut the bonnet up heaps underneath.

It's possible I could cut n shut the end tank on the exit side of the intercooler so it drops down at an angle and it might be enough to avoid touching the underside of the bonnet I'm about to head away for the weekend with the missus but next week, I'll have a look at that as an option also. The way it sits inside the bonnet a scoop might allow for that. Will still be close to touching but might just get me over the line.

This pic is looking through the bonnet scoop to the right/exit side of the intercooler. As the IC is off center, it doesn't seem to touch the other side I don't think. I'll have to have a other squizz in daylight. But yeah, that could be an option.