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97 Land Cruiser/Colorado TD - Ignition problem?

VirginiaColorado

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Hello!

Recently came into ownership of a 1997 Land Cruiser Colorado with 3.0 TD engine (1KZ-TE, model 95?). My goal is to get it running, and it was running until recently. I've never taken on a project like this, and although I am handy and can fix things, I'm just not sure where to start on a vehicle. So, here goes...

Currently, I'm having problems getting it to start. When cycling through the ignition steps, lock, off, acc, start, it's good until you go to start, then all lights go out and nothing. It's like the whole electric system shuts down. This has happened before and when I put the battery charger on each out to check, they are at 100% -- sometimes this "resets" the system and I am able to start it, but not recently. Just goes into shut down mode. Battery is draining at the rate of about 10-20% per week if it just sits. There are no accessories plugged in, only the analog clock inside.

Prior to this, I replaced some simple things like brakes, pads, tires, and filters. When I was driving it from Tennessee to Virginia, the radiator burst. We replaced that and all hoses and all was good again. Drove it 600+ miles and then... I replaced the speed sensor (speedometer/odometer stopped working) and the ignition switch and lock cylinder -- switch wasn't always catching, and the key could be removed from the cylinder while it was running. Now, I've got an ignition problem -- and also the temp is running very high, very quickly. I have a new thermometer, but don't want to change that until I can get it started consistently.

I'm not sure what else I should describe, I'm new at this, so hoping for some help in troubleshooting or the likes.

Thanks!

PXL_20240110_160549562.jpg
 
It looks like it's been over-pressurising. Are you losing coolant (expansion bottle filling up & overflowing.)?
That old radiator looks very rusty inside, has the engine block been flushed recently? It also appears to have had water in it instead of a recommended coolant that would incorporate anti- corrosion additives.
Do you know the history of the vehicle?
Rapid overheating indicates a blocked engine core, stuck thermostat or (whisper it) a head gasket problem or worse.
Bob.
 
It looks like it's been over-pressurising. Are you losing coolant (expansion bottle filling up & overflowing.)?
That old radiator looks very rusty inside, has the engine block been flushed recently? It also appears to have had water in it instead of a recommended coolant that would incorporate anti- corrosion additives.
Do you know the history of the vehicle?
Rapid overheating indicates a blocked engine core, stuck thermostat or (whisper it) a head gasket problem or worse.
Bob.
Hi Bob - Not losing coolant, but it hasn't run now for a couple of months b/c I can't start it. The old radiator was a mess and has been replaced and proper coolant installed. It wasn't flushed, but all "coolant" was replaced when the old one burst. I'm sure it had water in it. History of vehicle that I am aware of was that it was in the UK until about 2 years ago. One owner. No details on upkeep. Any of this cause it not to start? It won't even turn over at this point.
 
For others that may be looking at this, yes, the ignition problem is most pressing, if I can get it started then can troubleshoot the coolant system -- unless someone thinks they are related? Right now, batteries are charged and when I move ignition to start, car goes dead. No starter movement. No electrical system. Nothing works. Thoughts?
 
I often wondered what this number was and when you posted up to show yours Chris, it's prompted me too ask.. I have S7619 in same place... Can anyone shed light on this?
Screenshot_20240112_191654_com.android.chrome_edit_1470693413354751.jpg
 
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Chris, I know it may not help with the ignition itself, but a quick way to start it would be to remove the L/H inner panel just above the chassis, rear of the upper wishbone, to reveal the starter, leave ignition in the on position, and bridge the two big contacts on the solenoid, this will hopefully it will either spin, or spin and engage the flywheel to start it, if it doesn't engage you may need another person to possibly turn key for engagement, or purchase a mechanics remote starter switch that clamps on the terminals (it's a safer option than bridging contacts...
 
Gary - This is an education for me, so I will have stupid questions. I understand what you're saying and if I can start it, then I can move it to a better space to work on it. Where in the picture below is this located?

PXL_20240112_194120205.jpg
 
Yes from under the car. The starter is usually on on side but to the rear of the engine and is connected to the bell housing in some way.
 
I often wondered what this number was and when you posted up to show yours Chris, it's prompted me too ask.. I have S7619 in same place... Can anyone shed light on this?
I wondered about this too! Mine is S3408.
 
Ah OK... Yours is the right hand drive, so if you look down the drivers side engine, now if the 1kz is the same as the 1kd, then you will have the exhaust and steering column on that side, now on the other side, it's will be packed with alsorts so visability of seeing the starter from the top will be hard.. Its easier with the small panel removed as per the pic... One shows the panel in situ which is the left hand side where starter is, and the other is the exhaust side with panel removed... The panels are held on by plastic push in clips...
 
Gary - Thanks for the pictures! It snowed here last weekend and I've not been able to get back to this. Charging batteries and replacing ignition switch today to see if that will allow me to get it started. If so, then I can pull into garage and further troubleshoot.
 
Absolutely nothing. Batteries are charged, no power in the vehicle at all. I guess I'll wait for it to warm up. Any other thoughts?
 
What do you mean by absolutely nothing?

Is it:
1. Dead, no lights on dash at all?
2. Lights on dash but nothing else.
 
I guess the battery cables ( specially the negative strap) have all been tested/not corroded too far
 
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