Don't like the adverts?  Click here to remove them

underbody treatment

Where we are stuck is the quality of product comes secondary to application , without a good key and an airtight finish nothing will last .
 
Couplertec.....there you go 2 more Quacks. If only part of the car gets wet it cannot work....so doesn't.

I assume when a new ship is built the steel hull is cleaned and painted to the best ability but I think they still rust.

The salt on our roads is a big problem. Even when dry on the car the salt reabsorbs water when the humidity in the air increases so the car will rust away even sitting in the garage.

When I used to cut metal back to very lightly rusted areas to gas weld new steel on I could smell chlorine so I think salt must have still been present. I don't know what happened to the sodium lol.
 
Either way, Couplertec either works or is an elaborate hoax. Until I have personal experience, I'll keep an open mind. After all there's going to be a lot of opposition to it from paint and protection manufacturers if it actually does work.
 
Another was viewed for me yesterday. Worse than the last one.

Search now expanded to included non-land cruisers, very reluctantly. Mrs JB has decided on what she wants (E class convertible, with me having a 4x4 which we/she uses when seats needed), and there's a 0% deal on at Merc main dealers till tomorrow. So will need a 5/7 seater to replace the galaxy asasasasasap. Not driven the E class yet and its damned snowing.

Damn.
 
Last edited:
Another was viewed for me yesterday. Worse than the last one.

Search now expanded to included non-land cruisers, very reluctantly. Mrs JB has decided on what she wants (E class convertible, with me having a 4x4 which we/she uses when seats needed), and there's a 0% deal on at Merc main dealers till tomorrow. So will need a 5/7 seater to replace the galaxy asasasasasap. Not driven the E class yet and its damned snowing.

Damn.

Please, sit youself down in a dark room and have a good think about what you've just said...
 
How long would you be thinking of keeping the 120 for?
 
Don't like the adverts?  Click here to remove them
3 years.
Needs to be "nice" enough to do 3/4 weeks in Europe/trips up north etc.
Pal just brought round his L322. They don't half have their problems, but they are quite lovely, and drive very nice too.
 
I seen a good rangerover once it looked brand new apart from the fact it was on fire in a motorway service station carpark !
 
If your only keeping it for three years and your happy with the rest of the motor/price is right/ needs no welding. id be tempted to get it then.Id spray underneath with diesel and then engine oil, repeat yearly.
 
Any rust treatment is a quack remedy. Once you have rust there is absolutely no point in covering it up. It just gets worse under the surface. Hot soapy water to get rid of all the salt then thoroughly dry then spray with oil is the only prevention worthwhile. Most often the rust is worst where you cannot see it so there is no point of carrying out any protection anyway unless you can get into unseen areas. Trust me I've restored cars since 1959 and if rust cure was possible treatment would have been available then. There is no product that says it will cure rust, so it won't. It's a bit like cancer. There are remedies but not cures. The amount of rust depends on the quality of the steel. In the 80's I worked on 1959 cars that had no protection from new and had no rust. Then in 1963 with the same model car all hell broke loose and they turned to red biscuit in 10 years.

I'm not necessarily disagreeing with others, but I do side with Frank's use of oil.

I squib oil into my chassis boxes, and when I came to remove and replace the ARB front bumper a year or so ago, the visible interior of the front chassis box (where the ARB mounts) was oily up the sides and on the soffit (underside of the top).

IME, oil creeps and the rough nature of surface rust actually enhances the capillary action of the creeping.

There's no way to treat the interior of closed box sections other than an acid dip or similar with a zinc dip to follow, so for regular annual maintenance (in the summer) I squib oil.
 
Collie Chassis after acquainting it with an aggressive wire wheel on the angle grinder, Curerust, etch primer, matt black and smooth Hammerite. The inside was coated with engine oil applied with as syringe through all the holes in the chassis sides. Done end to end so it can be done. I used all my old aerosols up but probably would have cost about £80-90 to do.
I did all the under floor in a similiar fashion but finished it off with Waxoyl based underseal.

IMG_0590_zpscvzlzx4o.jpg

IMG_0591_zpsmlakuvrp.jpg

IMG_0601_zpsumgcg5tx.jpg

It might resist the salt a bit now, as the Collie is my winter driver till spring.
 
Mines booked in first shayne no question jumping
 
You either sit and watch telly at night or get in the garage and get things done. This is why I don't have a TV at all. It took me about 3 weeks to baseline the Collie and get it towards where I want it.
 
I hear that Andy i am determined to have a garage by next winter so i can take things apart and leave them apart until it's finished .
 
Yeah need a garage this year it will happen
 
Just booked mine into 'Rustmaster' for this Friday...:icon-biggrin:
 
Good job there Andy and if you do get board well we can keep you busy
 
Back
Top