Recent content by DaveN

And who did the rubbish one last time?

That's the pipe. If it's blocked the passenger will get water in their feet, which will be below the evaporator box. Water from the door will be something else.

There should be a tube behind that little grill that goes to a small electric motor that sucks air past the sensor. The manual tells you the value from the sensor depending on temperature.

I doubt that little 13 row cooler will make any appreciable difference to transmission temperature. The std in-rad cooler is extremely efficient, and pretty big, so adding a little extra may no make a difference. Check out the size of the OE extra cooler to give you an idea of what may be required.

I massaged mine a little, and put spacers behind the supports to keep it away from the bulkhead. Unfortunately, after a couple of years it started leaking again, as there was a tiny imperfection in the pipe that turned into a pin hole. Fortunately I have a special brazing kit for ally a/c...

It's quite usual for that pipe to go where it touches the insulation and rots through. Be sure you get the correct pipes as the toyota number system used to be screwed up and you ended up with 2 halves the same, even with the correct (different) part numbers.

47 is very low for static pressure. Static pressure will always be the same so long as there is liquid gas in the system (think of a fag lighter, it has the same pressure until it's just about to run out). But at 47 it looks like it's jut got a sniff of gas left in the system, but enough to keep...

Really need to see what the pressures are, that will tell us if there's a blockage. But a blockage doesn't mean high pressure though. Sometimes the dryer is blocked, or more likely contaminated with moisture and freezing. Check to see if it's getting cold. Expansion valve not so common, and they...

About 120psi will do you, but it must be absolutely dry otherwise it will contaminate the drier. You can use argon or nitrogen also. Just not oxygen or acetylene!! Or you can buy one of those cheapy a/c refill kits, just make sure it doesn't contain any magic sealants/lubricant booster/snake...

Sometimes the pipes have tiny pin pricks in them, and often corrosion gets in the O ring joints, so even a new O ring doesn't fix it. There's always the compressor front seal and casing joints. I had to reseal my compressor a few years ago where corrosion got under the seals joining the casings...

The gas is pretty much odourless, and evaporator failures are rare. The usual areas are the condensor rotting out, the pipes from the condensor where they pass through the front panel and are wrapped in foam, and the pipe that goes across the bulkhead where it can touch the insulation and rot...

Also be aware that Scorpion don't exist any more, although there was a former employee that continued to repair them, but that was some 8 years ago now. Also, if the car batteries go flat, or are disconnected, it often results in a broken alarm and you can't start the car. Toyota had so many...

It means it's recorded a fault in the transmission. Get out the paperclip and read the codes.

Thanks guys. The heater seems to have done the trick - until next time. It looks like the lens clips on, so guess I'll have a go at breaking the lens an resealing it. I drilled a hole in the bottom of the sidelight to cure the condensation problem with that.

Got no SWMBO, and got no hair, so no hair dryer! I've taken out the bulbs and stuck a small fan heater down in the gap - see if that helps.