I found some rust!!!!!!! on my JDM 80

[Cptsideways]

I hate rust, full stop can't stand the stuff. Hence my inane inability to buy UK cars & why I always choose JDM cars if I can find them. Anyway whilst drying out the carpets after the floods from a few weeks back (it was pretty deep to get to the horses) I find a small hole in the drivers side footwell


So after a good prod & poke, then some cutting out I found the culprit, there is a mount on the front side of the footwell, that attaches the inner wing to the guard. This had obviously filled up & ritted away over time. There is a bung in the bottom of it, I'd suggest to remove the little blighter !

So we found this



After several hours work I finally fixed it, nice & properly, all fixed back into the mount (which I even had to fab up some parts of



So I have just ordered a bloody great load of Waxoyl & rust cure stuff & shall give the old girl a once over to keep that horrid rust at bay. This is first bit of welding my 80 has ever required not bad for 26 years old eh.

 

[Rob]

26 year old! I thought they started making the 80 in 1990

 

[x_shaun]

That problem was posted on the old site. and dont you mean 16 years old

 

[Towpack]

The first 80's rolled off the production line in late '89 and hit the showrooms in early '90.

I'm currently in the process of giving my LC a good going over on the underside. Doing the back half first as that seems to suffer more. Already scrapped off any flaky underseal or rust, treated any rust with converter and given 2 coats of anti rust primer. Next step is to attack the treated areas with the waxoyl/underseal gun, then repeat the process on the front half. Haven't found any penetration so far. The axle seems to be the worst hit. The chassis & floorpan are barely touched.

 

[Cptsideways]

Mine is one the first 80's made, probably built in the first few weeks of production! late 89 built 90 reg'd. So she is 23 years old my mistake. My other Toymota is the 26 year old

I spent much of yesterday evening getting very wet jetwashing the underside thoroughly, ready for the next step she spent all night in the garage with the heater on so it should be nice & dry.

 

[IRLGW]

Have to admit I'm not a fan of waxoil as unfortunately its as good as trapping moisture as repelling it. On metal I always go for an epoxy underwater primer and then over with chassis paint and recently have been using triflow with excellent finish results. Rust converters are also a gray area and they really only prolong the enevitable. I have a box with every size and type of wire brush fitting for the grinder & drill as deep removal of the rust is the best thing. Also you need to recoat steel/iron as soon as you expose it and don't touch it with your bare hands as that will already add moisture to the surface. Paint it cold as that way there is less humidity on the metal as well.

 

[Mark N]

Unfortunately buying a JD market car isn't a fail safe for a rust free car. Japan has beaches and people are allowed to drive on them....
Mine was squeaky clean apart from one of the tube cross supports at the rear that the shock mounts too. Totally gone - only about 10% of the diameter still joined. rust from inside out so suspect salt water hadn't been flushed out once.
Regards,
Mark.

 

[Towpack]

Any rust treatment is only going to slow down the process. Compete removal of the rust down to bare clean metal is the only real cure and, short of actually stripping the vehicle completely and having everything dipped or blasted, that is impossible. Prevention is better than cure etc. and that means galvanising from new.