What nuts for these rims? w/ pics

[uHu]

I got a set of wheels that I wanted to put on, but I don't have the nuts. I checked at a tyre place, and they gave me something that looks like they are made for steel rims. Are they the right nuts (see pic), or should they be the more common type for alu-rims, with both a conical tip and a flat collar ?
The nuts I have for other, more standard, oem rims I have (16" and 17"), are all the same type and too big to fit in the holes of these rims.
The rims have Toyota part number PZ406-70670-ZC, but are made by Ronal in Germany.

The second question is what to do with the spare wheel hoist? Since the center hole in these rim is much smaller than the standard rims have, the crossbar that hooks into the wheel doesn't fit. Have you seen these rims elsewhere, and what does the spare wheel hoist hook look like?

 

[clivehorridge]

I don't see how they're going to fit over the hub casings with such a small hole in them

Not sure of the hubs on a hundee, so you might have to ignore my ramblings.

Anyway, the nuts look correct. The washer type nuts fit wheels with a flat shoulder machined around the outer face of the stud hole.

 

[uHu]

The hub casing of a 100 doesn't stick out that much, so it fits inside the recess.

Re nuts: The hole does have a machined flat shoulder outside of the cone, just like on the other oem wheels I have, just that these are smaller, and deeper. But you might be right - It also looks like the conical part, and the shoulder, is of a different metal than the rest of the rim, so they might be designed for normal steel rim nuts.

Here, for comparison, my original oem wheels, with the belonging nut with washer. That washer nut is too big to fit inside the hole in the new rims (above), while the normal steel-rim-type nut fits fine.

 

[SafariTecPeter]

The posted part number does not list in my Toyo parts catalouge.
Abit of google did produce some results....ish....
Among others suggesting the part numer PZ4067067001 for the respective nuts.

 

[uHu]

...Among others suggesting the part numer PZ4067067001 for the respective nuts.

Yes. I came that far. Just couldn't find any pic or description of those nuts.
I'm hoping that someone else in here has the same rims, and knows how the hoist bit is made as well.

 

[clivehorridge]

The alloy rims I had in the past with the machined flat shoulder, had no chamfered bezel at all.

The wheel was centred on the wheel apature and the body of the nuts themselves, which inserted the thickness of the rim.

It could be that your rims will accept those you have and as an alternative, the washer type.

 

[uHu]

Added some text on the last pic above...

 

[Miro]

I have the same rims (PZ 406-70670-ZC) and also the OEM nuts (PZ406-70670-01) for these rims. The following may indeed be the only pictures of those nuts, available online:

20171018_164659

• Miro
• Oct 18, 2017

20171018_163509_HDR

• Miro
• Oct 18, 2017

Note: when I got them from the previous car owner, the nuts were heavily rusted and needed to be resurfaced, so this is not their original coating.

@uHu I know this is an old thread, but I would greatly appreciate it if you could share your experience with these rims, more specifically, have you had any issues while driving with them? Also, from your signature, I assume your land cruiser is with IFS, correct?

The previous owner of my truck had bought the rims (from the local Toyota dealer), as a second set for the winter season here. He had warned me however, that after some driving (a few hundreds km), either the nuts on those rims loosen on themselves, or the studs get bent or even break off. This had happened to him on several occasions, despite his efforts to solve the problem.

I have seen only one another Land Cruiser with those exact rims. However, it was a "105 series", i.e. with a solid front axle. And that made me wonder if the above issue has anything to do with the independent front suspension. Any thoughts on this are also most welcome.

 

[uHu]

Didn't have any issues with those rims. Never had loose nuts. I torqued them when fitting, and again after 20 to 50 km. I took the wheels to a reputable tyre and wheel shop, and they were certain that they are made for normal type nuts, like the one in my pics, and in yours. Seems to be working OK.
The only problem with those rims is that with the closed center, they take a few seconds more to put on, because it's hard to see the hub and bolts.

 

[Miro]

Excellent, I'll have mine double checked by a wheel specialist for any imperfections and give them a try myself, with the torque wrench near by

Also, another small issue with those rims is that, as noted by the dealer's description, they are not suitable for a spare tire.

Thank you very much for your reply.

 

[uHu]

They can be made suitable for use as a spare, either by changing the clamp at the end of the winch wire, or with a rear mounted spare wheel holder. The problem is only the tiny centre hole.
There is another difference: They have a J-lip, like most car rims, and not a JJ-lip which has been standard on Land Cruisers. The difference is the shape of the edge of the rim, where the tyre rests. I do not know enough about the subject to say if it has any implications, for on-road or off-road use.

 

[Miro]

I see, yes indeed, changing the clamp is a good option in this case. Thanks for pointing out the J and JJ lip difference. I will have to read more on the matter.

About this particular combination of alloy rims with steel tapered seats for the nuts, and respectively the normal type nuts (usually used for steel rims), I was only able to find one reference in regards to the recommended torque specifications. From what I read, these should be torqued to 130 N.m (96.6 ft-lb). Do not know if this is correct. What torque do you use to tighten yours?

 

[uHu]

130 Nm

 

[uHu]

Nother update on these rims, vs use as spare wheel on the OE spare wheel hoist.
Yesterday I put these wheels on, but only after ensuring that I could put one in the spare wheel location if needed. I have 4 of these rims, and use the more standard "big centre hole" rim for spare wheel. I found that if I take the lock washer off the spare wheel hoist clamp, so that the spring part attached to the cable can be separated from the traverse clamp, then I could nearly get the clamp through the hole. I then grabbed my biggest pair of pliers and squeezed the clamp a bit to make it narrower, and cut 2-3 mm off the 2 small guides sticking out (the longer "finger" which goes into one of the wheel stud holes, I left intact).
This gives me the possibilty to put either a standard or a "small hole" wheel in the spare wheel postion, and a slightly deformed, but fully functional, spare wheel hoist clamp. It is possible to remove and replace the little spring washer holding the clamp together by using the tools in the standard tool kit, if I would want to.

 

[Miro]

Sounds great. Now that you mentioned this, I just realized that should I ever need to use my spare "big centre hole", I will be having a problem transporting the faulty wheel with the "small hole", if the trunk is full. Yes will definitely have to take a look into this myself, as soon as the snow stops here . Thanks again uHu.

Btw, I have been using these rims for a little less then a month now. No problems so far . Upon checking them with a local tyre specialist before putting them on, it turned out that some of the wheels were not properly balanced. The ride with them is smoother and the truck accelerates easier.

 

[uHu]

data point: (completely besides the point )
I had my son help me carry the wheels when I changed, and he noticed that the BFG A/Ts on OE standard rims are heavier than the "small hole" rims with winter tyres on; so we put them on the scales:
16" OE stndrd rim w 265/75 bfg a/t ko2 : just over 34 kg
16" Ronal rim w 275/70 Nokian studded : just under 30 kg