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tailegate wheel holder

al/c

al/c

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Joined
Jan 21, 2016
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uk
i,ve already read how john fitted his but are there any other options than the direct 4x4 one. want to keep it standard as possible :think:
 
What's wrong with OEM?
Spare carrier.jpg
 
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I have that OEM spare wheel carrier fitted to my project vehicle.
It came with the vehicle but had the Toyo-Stickers all over it.
I had to modify it to make the latch fit. The unit I got MAY have originally been intended for a J8 as here are different versions listed.
Another thing to consider, is that if You fit this unit, You must reinfore the body inside the rear quarter panel (corner) where the upper hinge attaches to the body.
In the bottom there is a bracket that slides in that bolts to the body. You drill through the outer skin & bolt the lower hinge into th bracket.
Furthermore You must shorten the body trim aft of the rear wheel arch.
The suppport that goes onto the upper tail gate is abit "hmmmm"....
You must drill through two panles (1 cavity). In an ideal world, one would reinfore this area too....

Don`t underestimate the work required.
& if You want to fit the genuine 18" rim to it, You must add abt 60mm of spacer.

Shout if You need pictures.
@werner; The drawing can be found in the parts catalouge
 
That one you linked to looks smart Werner.
 
StarCruiser said:
That one you linked to looks smart Werner.
Click to expand...
It might be more expensive, but I think it's an easier install and nothing going through the body. I am weary of drilling through bodywork. Bumper plastic is another thing. I will have to save up for that, and with my health deteriorating, it will be maybe next year.
 
SafariTecPeter said:
I have that OEM spare wheel carrier fitted to my project vehicle.
It came with the vehicle but had the Toyo-Stickers all over it.
I had to modify it to make the latch fit. The unit I got MAY have originally been intended for a J8 as here are different versions listed.
Another thing to consider, is that if You fit this unit, You must reinfore the body inside the rear quarter panel (corner) where the upper hinge attaches to the body.
In the bottom there is a bracket that slides in that bolts to the body. You drill through the outer skin & bolt the lower hinge into th bracket.
Furthermore You must shorten the body trim aft of the rear wheel arch.
The suppport that goes onto the upper tail gate is abit "hmmmm"....
You must drill through two panles (1 cavity). In an ideal world, one would reinfore this area too....

Don`t underestimate the work required.
& if You want to fit the genuine 18" rim to it, You must add abt 60mm of spacer.

Shout if You need pictures.
@werner; The drawing can be found in the parts catalouge
Click to expand...
I tried that, but maybe I am not doing it correctly as I can't find any drawings.
 
Werneroeder said:
It might be more expensive, but I think it's an easier install and nothing going through the body. I am weary of drilling through bodywork. Bumper plastic is another thing. I will have to save up for that, and with my health deteriorating, it will be maybe next year.
Click to expand...
Me too, I'm not keen on going away from factory and drilling holes. Inside the tailgate or out of sight is an exception though.
Sorry to hear you're not well Werner. Nothing to do with me keeping you out in the cold I hope? :shifty:
 
StarCruiser said:
Me too, I'm not keen on going away from factory and drilling holes. Inside the tailgate or out of sight is an exception though.
Sorry to hear you're not well Werner. Nothing to do with me keeping you out in the cold I hope? :shifty:
Click to expand...
No, it's been going on for a while now, but it is getting worse unfortunately.
 
I used some bent 6mm plate for the top mounting and don't remember it being all that difficult to do and iirc there was just space for nuts so no need to drill through both skins if that's where you mean Peter? I bought another one for this 100 and modified it to move the tyre across and up again but for what I'm doing with this 100 the underslung location has been fine and so it hasn't been fitted yet.
 
@uHu; It does not come up "every time". It is rescently showing with me. I have stored abt 10 vehicles by VIN. It shows on about half of them....

Jon; I too shaped a doubler based on the outer skin contour & glued it in situe to reinforce & spread the load on the top hinge. I then bolted through the top hinge, the outer skin & the doubler & fitted Nylock on the back.
My reference to the double skin is refering to the support being mounted to the upper tail gate. A genuine "bit*ch" & one would have to do seriouse work to get this 100% strong & not bend the outer skin of the upper tail gate.
We ftted the spare wheel tyre to the back as the space underneight was needed by a LR tank. Its nice to have the extended milage the 192l tank represents. Unfortunately it was fitted before my time.....so there are a few flawes to it by my standard. Have not had the time to drop the tank yet. Priorities....
Belowe You will see hove the trim was cut back. I have later come to know that a suitable trim is available OEM.
Needs to be re-adressed either way. The spacers are added to cope with the 18" rim. Another thing that will be re-adressed. The other option is to cut & weld the bracket itself. As the car will be traveling soon & steel rims are going in, I opted for the spacers as they are a reversible option.
IMG_20170212_145606.jpg
IMG_20170212_145558.jpg

Sorry, truck was not washed this week :-(
 
Got it Peter. I don't think that upper tailgate mount (or the lower) are supposed to take any great load though, more stop small vibrations and the tailgate skin there is actually quite strong. The one I fitted to my previous 100 (with a 36" Simex mounted) I could put all my weight (about 100kg) on the very end without any determinable flexing anywhere open or closed. I have had heavy duty bumper mounted wheel carriers that flexed but the body mounted one did not. On that previous carrier I moved the wheel mount across 100mm, up 75mm and out about 50mm to hold the larger tyre. On my latest one I cut the tubing and welded 100mm spacers in and then moved the mount up 75mm and out 50mm - slightly more work but a tidier result. I also put an extra tube along the bottom with the intention of fitting a gas strut to stop it opening too far rather than the usual pin in the hole method. I also made the area inside the wheel into storage and put a 2" receiver in the middle of the wheel for other accessories and a similar hi-lift or shovel mount as my last one to the side of the tyre. I got a bit carried away though because I don't think I'm going to use now but it might give you some ideas for yours when you have time :blush:

20160525_193244.jpg
 
Hi Jon!

Thanks, I see what You have alteres in order to make it more adaptable for Your spesific needs.
I guess the 2" receiver is abit of a US-Marked copy. I have seen it often fitted across the pond.
The idea with the strut has been in the back of my head too. But again not been given any priority.

I was contemplating fitting a HiLift base to the hinged side of the wheel carrier. For now I have given the idea a rest as the HiLift is a; going elsewhere & b; I want to see how the carrier holds up with it`s current/normal load.

As for the upper tail gate "support"-> YES, there is no real support in it, I agree it is more of a rattel stop. Its position must however be such, that it does touch the carrier but does not transfer stress to the tailgate....
Not overly happy with how this thing sits tbh.....
 
How about an ARB rear carrier and bumper - expensive sure, but very strudy (read heavy). The boss that holds the wheel can be slid in and out so that wider wheels can be accommodated. You can see pictures of my 285/75 on an ARB in my hedgehog build thread. You can 2 wheels side by side @ 285/75 max if you want. Picks up on chassis rails so no body intrusion
 
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