What blast media to use ?

[Shayne]

I have heard good things about crushed glass but the pic below is my worst rust and if i can get away with something less aggressive i would be far more comfortable blasting around the engine bay without removing things .

I don't think crushed glass inside the starter motor would be a good thing and i'm sure it would strip wires in a flash so i would appreciate recommendations from those with experience .

Please note this is a toy blaster 50l max output 14.6cfm and a 30lb media tub so i'm expecting slow progress in any case .

 

[t1pper]

The glass comes in several grades so a fine option would be the best for more delicate work and glass is one of the cheaper options too, you could also try walnut shells as its also less aggresive.
We do a fair amount of blasting here at work and the media is only half the picture it depends how much pressure you are using to the success (or damage) that can be achieved.
Lastly the process no matter what media is used it gets into everything its not just the media but also all the rust paint and general debris that works it way into oil seals etc.
Doing the process is reasonably quick but it is worth taking some time preparing the job and sealing or masking all the areas that you want to keep free from debris.

 

[BRE Fabrications LTD]

Soda blasting could work well. But not really something you could do yourself.

 

[Shayne]

Reading up on the soda blast it seems its more for paint than rust , i guess its a trial and error thing so if i start with the rear axle i will hopefully have some idea by the time i get to the front .

 

[Francesco]

Probably the best solution is glass microspheres with a diameter of 040-070 microns or 070-110 microns. They are effective in the removal of rust even if not rub off the underlying material; also they don't leave harmful deposits and are removed from the cavities by simple compressed air.
On electric cables and gaskets it is essential to use a sturdy masking tape.
The soda (just like other "natural" materials: corn cob and sinwood) is very delicate, but is not very effective on rust, unless you use the one with high grain size which, however, requires a great pressure and therefore a very powerful compressor. Even using soda, though, it's a good idea to mask rubber parts, especially if they are not new, because there is an abrasion effect that permanently damages a stiff rubber.
From what you write, however, I understand you don't mean to disassemble anything, so the blasting is not the definitive operation, but only a preventive care to prevent the spread of rust, that now is only superficial. Have you considered a treatment with Fertan? After brushing you could spray this rust converter and subsequently paint the surfaces. The result is usually good and quite durable, with the advantage of being able to remove the Fertan from plastic parts simply with water.

 

[StarCruiser]

Have a look at getting the truck treated with Krown, Shayne. It's said to stop surface rust like that and they apply it really thoroughly. I did a thread on here about mine and their website is pretty informative. If you google Krown you'll find some pretty good reviews about it in Canada where it originates. Personally I think blasting anything without dismantling is only going to end in tears.

 

[flint]

Blasting media certainly does get everywhere ! I used one of those clean and strip wheels on a 4 ½” grinder (and a small roloc one on a an angle air die grinder for awkward bits), followed with rust convertor. Seems to be holding out ok.

 

[Shayne]

My goal is to paint cold galvanize on everything hence i want to go back to clean bare steel .

Screwfix do a great preparation wheel (one of them hard sponge things) which will be used wherever possible . I use Fertan rust converter myself and its good stuff to use in an ongoing battle , but i'm out to win the fight .

I have seriously considered engine out and body off but reality bites and i have to accept even those who don't have to contend with the weather end up with a year long project in pursuit of such dreams .

I have two quotes starting at £800 to make the underside good again one who will blast and coat everything with truck bed liner , an idea i initially liked until i thought to myself "bed liner can hide anything" so no to that , and these guys who would be my first choice if i were going that route http://www.rustbusters.co.uk/ please note i think there are several companies using the same name but when i spoke to this guy on the phone i came away thinking old school "800 maybe more , 3 days maybe more , depends if we think it needs welding"

They wash it , dry it , wire wheel it , clean it with compressed air , treat it with rust converter , dry it again and then they seal .

Sounds like a good deal to me but they are not gonna drop the tank , remove the steering rack or control arms , or even bumpers which are things i can and will do at home .

Job and finish is not really my aim but i'm kicking myself because , for example , if i had the gear when i removed all my brakes another hours work could have blasted zinced and painted the shields and whatnot guaranteeing no rust in that area for 10 years or more .