Keyless entry options?

[Knucklehead]

Was wondering if anybody had fitted a keyless remote system to a 93' cruiser?
Not sure what year the remote locking key fobs started but mine came with the plain old keys, no fancy buttons.

I have a drivers side key that now manages to go about a quarter way in and no further, so no locking.
Tried the usual graphite in the cylinder but no joy.

It has central locking using the driver's side key lock and I could just change the stuffed cylinder but thought might be a good excuse to fit keyless entry system.

Not looking any alarm/immobiliser, just something to link into the existing central locking if that is possible?

Any past experiences much apprecaited.

Dave.

 

[Chris]

I had a system fitted. Yes it has an alarm etc but it locks and unlocks perfectly with a fob. Now, having said that, I happen to have in my secret man cave a Waeco remote central locking system. It does nothing but lock and unlock although you can use spare wires to trigger things if you're smart enough. I know that Matt, now back in Capetown fitted the very same system to his 80 so it does work, but its not something that I'll ever use ....

 

[Knucklehead]

Cheers Chris, could you let me know what Waeco system it is/part number? If it links into my basic key operated system without immobilisers and the likes then happy days.

Find it odd that a lock that has worked without any issue, no sticking keys or the likes, suddenly buggers up and the key won’t go all the way in. Half expecting to see part of a screwdriver broken off inside it when I can see in daylight.

Maybe full alarm/immobiliser might not be a bad idea.

 

[Chris]

Well I'll have a look but it's a plain brown cardboard box from memory. With instructions.
I used a mobile alarm fitting company who came and did a full install for me of a basic system that hasn't faulted once.

 

[Justin_Elliott]

In case you or others are interested:

I just had a quote from Access Lock and Key Service, in Margate, Kent ([email protected]). to overhaul the lock barrels / replace tumblers / Recode etc.

They quoted me £70+VAT (& +Return Postage) for ignition barrel, driver, passenger and tailgate locks...

 

[GuyB]

I spent several hours at the weekend on this subject (separate post on that as I'm trying to do more than just unlock) and it's a bit tricky.

On my last 80 I fitted a £20 kit from ebay. No actuators, just a negative signal to the appropriate wire in the door control loom and it worked a treat. I didn't do it, mind... I have a mate who was willing to spend as long as it took to work out which cables, provided I kept him topped up with beer.

Unfortunately, he can't remember how he did it so I'm starting from scratch!

 

[Richard Turner]

On the alarm system I removed it all plugged into an intercept loom down in the passenger kick panel.

 

[Knucklehead]

Thanks for replies.

My ‘93 came with no factory alarm system and currently has none.

Possible opions from what you guys are saying is get the barrels overhauled which will likely mean car off the road. Being my sole DD probably not an option.

Try and find a similar Waeco system Chris mentioned which gives me keyless entry or possibly pay someone to fit full alarm type system.

Could always get a new barrel but sometimes with kids/dogs it would be great to have fob based unlocking.

Any recommendations for a full alarm type system and ball park costs? Never really liked the thought of alarm/immobiliser system leaving me stuck in the arse end of nowhere. I’m sure there are good ones out there?

Cheers
Dave.

 

[Richard Turner]

The door lock control relay is in the drivers door (I think as I only have the US wiring diagram) You should be able to do it by grounding pin 10 or 11 for lock and unlock. You can take the power for the remote receiver from pin 8.

 

[Knucklehead]

Thanks Richard and think the control relay must be in drivers door as that is the lock that is stuffed and locks/unlocks. Will pull door card to have a look at weekend. Had to lock drivers door from inside and then crawl across and out passenger door. PITA. Least passenger door still locks.

Why toyota went to the bother of giving the early cruisers central locking without key fob activation is a mystery.

 

[Richard Turner]

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/182676676538

This would do the job for the unlock and lock as it has the negative switching.

 

[Knucklehead]

Cheers again. At that price I might even give it to somebody less likely to set my 80 on fire. Electrics are unfortunately not my strong point....

 

[Chris]

£8.69? Blimey

This is what I dragged out of the cupboard

 

[Knucklehead]

Thats enough wires to give me nightmares. Obviously not the simple hook into existing central locking I thought it was. Cheers for posting image. I need a better man cave...

 

[chapel gate]

Its the barrels of the locks that corrode being die cast aluminium. the levers are brass. The corrosion stops the levers from moving when you put the key in. The locks can be stripped and the corrosion cleaned. If the corrosion has damaged the barrels beyond simple cleaning them a barrel from a known working lock can be used by removing your levers and putting them in the replacement barrel. Keep an eye on the tiny springs!
the other possibility is wear on the key, this would effect all locks and ignition barrel though.
in the end i just bought an entire new lock set including ignition and glove box, and four keys!
i do need to fit a keyless entry system though as using a key is a pain..

 

[Knucklehead]

Been looking at options this evening. Noticed the remote systems mention extra motor required if the central locking only operates on the drivers door, which mine does. Thinking after fitting one of these kits it might only remotely operate the drivers door.

Changing the passenger side parts into the drivers side might be an option as looked at the cost of a full OEM barrel set and its another mortgage. Can get a mate to ship me a set up from OZ lot cheaper or maybe just bite the bullet and get a proper alarm system installed.

 

[Richard Turner]

I ordered one of the ebay remote boxes earlier, I will put it in when it turns up and take some pics.

 

[Knucklehead]

That would be great.

From what I can see looking at the little diagrams on ebay for this controller, for a basic setup and my limited understanding, there will be a live feed (taken from toyo pin 8 wire), negative could be taken off 16 as constant earth or guess any good earth point, then pin 10 for lock, 11 for unlock. 4 wires I think.

Will be interested to see if yours works all 4 doors. Read in one of the manuals about needing extra kit if central locking only works from the drivers door key not the passenger side as mine does. Looking at your diagram though 10/11 are from the door master switch which works all 4 so not sure why any extra motors required.

 

[Richard Turner]

Basically I will be operating the lock/unlock switch on the electric window master switch. Which does all the doors on mine. My passenger side doesn't do the central locking, but it has central locking. Same as the boot. But that won't matter.

The only thing is that I don't seem to have the 'electric windows and sunroof still work for 60 seconds after the ignition is switched off unless you open a door' function. Whether it just doesn't have it (no door lock timer relay) or I have a failed capacitor in the door lock relay I will have to find out. But I can still get the lock/unlock button wires easily anyway.

 

[Knucklehead]

For anybody else who finds their drivers door key only goes halfway in, I just pulled both lock cylinders and cleaned/regreased. Now working great.

Very straightforward as long as don’t let the pins spring out when removing the cylinder from the barrel. Keep key in while removing it then clean them one at a time.

Still planning to fit keyless entry kit but at least can lock the 80 now.

Dave.