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No.... 80 series.... can't afford modern vehicles ;-) 2 were built in 1943 , one in 1952 , cruiser in 1996 , working van is 11 plate and over 200K miles .....

Good to know...... I'm looking at getting my OE wheels refurbed and putting some 275 /70 / 16 AT's on them for general running about ... keeping my steel wheels with more MT types on them for playing ..... I didn't like the price of BFG's when I looked ..... but wanted winter capable tyre's

I seem to remember BFG's are one of the only AT tyres with a proper winter rating .... Loads of chunky tread does not mean it's a good tyre in winter conditions or snow.... I've done more than a few unplanned 360's in a 10 ton 375 hp tractor in the snow ..... tractor tyres are actually pretty...

^^^^^^ both of above comments but would add .... Depending what you mean by "overland" ..... replace UJ's , replace CV joints , possibly fit new radiator from a reputable supplier , yes.... strip and rebuild front axle including diff .... replace every flexible hose in brake system , fuel and...

I would question if the front prop is the issue.... quick way to test is to remove it then go for a drive.... the Colorado is selectable 4wd so just leave it in RWD

Any propshaft / PTO shaft should always have the joints in phase as in the top pic

Pretty s Pretty sure the original pumps were a vane type probably for a miniscule increase in efficiency over a gear type and bomb proof conventional pump ...the "mod " is to replace with a gear pump . Same for the wet belt engine lunacy ...it was to gain a miniscule amount of efficiency that...

How clean did it get you ;-) Sharing the bath with a loved one is fine..... not so sure about sharing it with parts of your car is OK though ......

And the "new" V6 Ranger has the JLR famed for crankshafts failing , plastic inlet manifolds cracking , will it explode or not engine.... People are swapping the oil pumps in the 5 cylinder Ranger engines to one that will self prime.... ridiculous that you have to pay to make your ford engine...

^^^^^^^^^ ask an expert ;-)

I think non genuine are available new ?

Blackcircles work well and are often cheaper for the same tyre than the tyre shop who will be fitting them...so much cheaper often he can't buy them for that price if he's a small indy tyre guy.... Used them many times and also used their customer services when some Michelin tyres started to go...

That looks like UV damage ...... mine are a similar age but live in the dark when not being driven .... no cracking to speak of . TBH my 1944 dated Goodyears on my Halftrack show similar cracking but have a good few years on the BFG's .... I wouldn't expect that level of cracking from a premium...

Some neat work there.... What many don't appreciate is the time spent being neat and tidy with wiring etc pays you back many times over in terms of reliability over time and use.... This build will serve you well for decades with the thought and attention to detail you have spent on it

I'm going to do similar .....OME 860 rears then run airbags for towing and adventures loaded with kit . What make bags did you go for ? some say kevlar bags are best to combat chaffing in the springs .

But still 5 speed ;-) The way this is going someone is going to fit a splitter box and start doing "twin stick shifting an LC 80 " videos on You Tube .... It is worth a gander at some of them actually especially the ones with a Detroit up front . There's a good one of a girl shifting up...

@LandcruisingFarmer .... In my eyes the ultimate would be a set up like the old 1255 and 1455 Internationals had and the "turbo matic " Fendt's too from the same era ..... Manual G Box with a torque convertor in the drive line ;-) it would give that auto like pull away under load but be as...

This is why I generally avoid quoting for jobs on old Ag and Plant kit...... "just jobs" got to love them .;-)

Update on playing with the rear springs and shocks on the 80... The rear red springs were Roughtrax HD springs and for towing an Ifor trailer with the Jeep on and all our kit for a few weeks away in Scotland worked well with a fully laden 80 sitting level and handling well .... I have a 2 inch...

Now that you've established the failure then the only option is to remove the engine and fully strip it . You can't drop the crank without dropping the gearbox and removing the front timing cover.... even then you need to make sure the piston hasn't contacted the valves so the head needs to come...

I thought the rad blind was more of winter thing to help keep the engine warm.... which reminds me... I must roll mine up . I forgot once and TBH it was summer and hot and it still ran in the same place on the gauge .

Toyota are either behind the curve or trying to make a bit more money from customers .... The Wife's Merc Estate has the entire owners manual loaded on the car hard drive... it's just a swipe away on the screen... It also came with a massive paper volume of the same that's never been used and...

Synthetic is the way to go ... lighter , safer as if it breaks it more or less drops to the floor .... and nicer to handle ...spool it out and give it a wash occasionally in a bucket of water and it will last for years . You can also carry an extension rope of synthetic with no weight penalty ...

Much depends on what your intended use is TBH ..... Occasional self recovery etc where you're not doing deep water crossings and driving in constant wet muddy conditions then Winch Max or Rhino are absolutely fine .... If you intend a lot of use and adverse conditions then check the IP rating of...

Varies hugely on the rating of the winch , the manufacturer of the winch.... steel or synthetic rope... same for the winch mount..... I would say £1000 - £2000 Make sure you fit a high quality battery isolator

But if it's the master cylinder wouldn't it wear the rear pads too ? What are the flexible brake lines like ? particularly the one from chassis to front axle ....I've known them to collapse internally and so hold pressure in the calliper's..... this single line would only affect the front...

First place to look is any multi plug or connector in the loom.... where they are on a 105 I have no idea... but if damp has gotten in to a loom the multi plugs are normally where it starts... The wiper switch on the column could be a good place to start with the multi meter..... it will or...

11.4 volts is an odd number TBH.....below battery voltage so must be stabilised or through an ECU ? and again 10.66 v and 10.2 v are either as a result of a resistor or ECU.... Possible the INT is a variable timed relay.... Is the table above from the tech manual or what you were measuring ...

As an experiment I've ordered a pair of Koni "Heavy Track " shocks to try on the rear .... they seem to be adjustable like the raids but a pair are less than one Raid so obviously nothing like as robust or good but as the Dakar isn't immediately on my to do list they might be OK for the current...

And get an old bit of carpet ....leave it under the engine and let her drip overnight.... your eyes and head will thank you .

Could be the battery taking charge..... alternators will now "talk" to the engine ECU and up revs to increase output .... so many things on a modern vehicle can communicate.... and command an upping of engine idle speed....it's all on the CAN

I've never seen an oil cooler routing from a Turbo return and would avoid it . Every single factory turbo engine I've seen has a big free flow return from the turbo....any pressure in the return is likely to make the turbo oil seals leak . Don't mess with the turbo oil return . If it needs an...

For my private use no..... my theory is it would take a couple of years before I used it even at 3 or 4 K miles oil change intervals on the 80..... during that time the oil in the metal barrel will have become contaminated by the condensation that would build up on the inside of the drum even...

That's my only concern with the Icon shocks..... alloy and road salt not normally a good combo..... the UK obsession with spreading salt really takes a toll on our vehicles . My OME springs started to flake after a couple of years.... Good call on the Koni raids...... but still like the idea of...

Worth enquiring at Agricultural suppliers or plant suppliers..... JCB do a 5w40 engine oil that's OK for their DPF's and EGR systems..... it's called "cold climate 5W40 " 10W40 is common in many tractors that have DPF's.....

I like the look of that Icon kit ....just need to work out how to get it here and cost ;-)

Our roads around here are worse than many farm tracks..... I've played with tyre pressures so I don't think tyres ....it's not the big potholes that are the worry it's the small ripples and the painted on rumble strips etc .... just a harsh jiggly ride issue . Could be shocks where the initial...

@Juddian .... you're spot on with what you say.... the cheapest part you will ever fit to any machine is oil.... even if it is JCB EP90 LSD oil at nearly £200 for 20 litres ! Many older designed vehicles using legacy parts have seen service intervals go up despite the engine being unchanged...

Looking and playing with rear spring rates..... initial investigation at the moment . My OME +2 springs had sagged a bit and just gave a harsh ride on the rear .... I swapped in a set of Roughtrax ( I think....they are painted red ? ) HD +2 ones that when towing work perfectly but are a bit...

Seconded on the spring hangers..... you need moveable shackles one end otherwise no movement.... the spring gets longer as it flattens with load .

Not Landcruiser related but similar..... We took my 1943 Halftrack to Holland for the 80th commemorations of Market Garden and XXX Corps .... parked up in afield for the night with other vehicles and a Dutch chap came up and started chatting and noticed the boxes and cans etc on the Halftrack...

Which is part of the reason why I can't find anything I like to replace it ..... you don't get anything useful in more modern vehicles....just tech for techs sake that then throws a wobble .

I seem to remember the GX was only introduced as a result of the strength of the Japanese Yen or some import tax for a couple of years made Jap vehicles expensive .... I remember for a couple of years the Shogun was also available as a de speccced version with steel wheels and a base trim as...

You will pretty much need an FTE engine , loom , ECU and get round the immobiliser ..... and an intercooler ....plenty of knowledge in Oz about FTE swaps and guy's who can supply modified looms etc Much easier to swap in an FT .......

To rule out a leaking or faulty injector do the following .... With the engine running just loosen the injector pipe at each injector in turn .... if you slacken one off and the noise stops then you have found both which cylinder and which injector is at fault . Take that injector out and get it...

Yes that's the normal thing that fails on the filter head letting air in ( the button ) Is this a new syndrome ? The 1HD FT's from the factory would give a similar symptom ...mine only did it at light throttle on a slightly uphill straight piece of road with a 40mph speed limit... you could...

I reckon the NRV was fitted to overcome the common issue of the primer on top of the filter allowing air in and letting fuel drain back when engine stopped.... Personal opinion but I would junk the little jubilee clips and put some fuel line clamps in their place..... yours look fine but I've...

From the visual picture no way is that going to fit ...... your man with the hydraulic press was spot on I've done 100's of different UJ joints on PTO shafts etc and most are way bigger than those .... all I ever have needed is a vice and a couple of the right size sockets to match the caps to...

I would think the original 60 series auto would be your best bet if you can find one as all the parts to convert will be off the shelf and designed to fit ..... are you sure the OE box is 4 speed ? An early 80 box might fit but would your transfer bolt to it ? Another thought is what about...

Running AG machines on a dyno we typically see A/C compressors take between 5 and 8hp on older tractors and still 4 hp + on the latest spec systems . Most machines now run vistronic cooling fans that are pretty much infinitely variable and controlled by A/C , engine and transmission ECU's...