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I've got to mine by removing the front wheel and the plastic wheel arch liner.

Feeling all deflated now

I'm not even going to bother to correct that, I tyre of it

Merged the two threads, use this one now

Thread locked whist I sort this out I have cleaned this tread up and removed non tyre related contend and insults both ways. Warnings have been issued (for whatever that's worth).

It's the number of posts, I think you need > 20

Not your tread or posts. Someone else posted some crap on here which got removed. You good, keep posting as it's looks like a good shelf/solution

It's always hard seeing one of Chris's old threads resurrected. Sadly Chris has passed on and gone to cruiser heaven, so hopefully someone else can answer this....

Looks like spam, smells like spam. Couldn't be arsed to click the links, so all gone now...

@Ryan Thomson if you have not already seen this

Not sure if it's still possible but you can also do a autotrader style add which has much less fees. Just take a look when placing the add. Sold a couple of bikes this way for around £25 fees

Probably did mine at 100k miles, but can't be sure

Couple of pics, before and after... Easy job to do, albeit a bit of a dirty job

What exactly is wrong with it? Can it be cleaned? Mine was quite gummed up and I took it off and cleaned it. I also have a blanking plate in place now which stops the exhaust gas from being circulated back through the EGR valve. Both quite common and quite a few have done these

Cheers Andy, dropped you a text

SC, curious as to why you went the commercial route and now converting it back?

I know, worried about that now. May just park it in with the lads Yaris for a few days.

Lol, you are probably correct Shane. WBAC say £3.7k, which will go down to £3k when you get there. Autotrader is around 6.5k for ones with similar milage and age. Reality is if I replace it even with a smaller runabout that will be more than the 4k. We do need to make a decision this year...

So just had a knock on the door and 3 nice Irish lads inquired as to if I would sell my 120. It's a LC4 with 141k mike's on the clock. Initially offered me £2k and I laughed at him, and said no £5.5k. They took a look and yes it has corrosion at the back and it's prob a bit more than surface...

Yeah last time I spoke to him he had moved up, but I think he is still supplying parts to some. Drop him a email, worst he'll do is say no can do

Urgh, what kind of stupid idiots do that

Serviced Tue 120 today. Oil and filters changed. I need to learn not to overtighten the new oil and fuel filters when changing them

Hard to tell, I don't see that on any service record ( I have all the Toyota ones) and I've never changed it, so could well be 141k miles

Well serviced the 120 today and changed this gas filter thing with a cheaper version off eBay. I cut open the old one and it's a odd one way valve thing with some sort of filter at one end. I assume to catch the oil and egr gasses. Anyway, here's a pic...

Just a small lift... Honest

Nice one, welcome back. All is forgiven

Merged the two threads

120 passed with only a CV boot clip needing to be replaced which they did right then. Has some reported surface rust, but I took a look and nothing too scary. Will need to get the anti roll bar off and rubbed down and sprayed up at some point.

The D4D can be noisy on cold start, and usually caused by worn injectors. These typically need replacing around 120k miles. If you do this with refurb injectors and yourself it's about £800. The SCV valve is also know to be problematic, about £130k for a new one. Generally good vehicles all...

Fixed for you

Well done Ryan, this has been a long time coming

Nice one Andy, I've always like those. Mind you, don't put that on a grassy bank, you won't get off it

I think this is defo achievable as a DIY job, and intend to do mine when it's due. Worth changing the water pump and tentioner whilst there as it's a 90k miles service thing.

Welcome to the forum. Great intro and you passed the first test by posting pics

Made that a sticky thread, so should be easy to fined in future

The problem we are seeing with older vehicles is finding credible garages to work on these, so unless you are willing to get stuck in yourself then maintaining them is difficult. We often have folk asking where they can get work done, and the few good places have long waiting lists. Something to...

Hi, no real rules on private sales. Stick a add up in the appropriate section. Yes, international forum, mostly UK based, but we certainly have a fair few Ossies on here

So glad it stayed on the family. As per Shane, new thread with the first post having a reference to its history.

If you are talking to him on the other side, He is always welcome back

Tony C is located in Cyprus...

In the middle of Germany at the moment, but will certainly be raising a glass to Chris tonight. Rest easy Chris

In that thread I posted there is a link to a site where you put in you reg it will give you the details. https://www.hpi.co.uk/content/diesel-news-the-future-of-diesel/hpi-euro-emission-standards-checker/ Ah, just realised you are in Ireland.... Not sure it will work for you. I'd give...

Take a read of this thread. I've posted a link in there to a checker. You need to check and see if yours is a euro 3 or euro 4 motor. I got my second one from Roughtrax in the end https://www.landcruiserclub.net/community/threads/suction-control-valve-removal.154571/

You can reset these. With the window closed, from the window switch on the door (don't use the driver's side control panel) press and hold the down bottom untill fully open and hold for 10 sec, then close and hold for 10secs. Do the same for all 4 windows and it should be fixed

Yup, both A and B trip meters reset to zero on battery disconnect. The main odometer should retain the total mileage. You will probably find that the one touch window function will also have stopped working.