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Sometimes you can see dye, but that is usually long gone, or its been a slow leak over a long time and any dye, if there ever was any, is long gone. Sometimes you can get a sniffer near there, but they bleep at all sorts of things, so cant be relied upon much. You may be able to get a visual and...

Its unusual to leak there, but it does happen, and its not easy to find leaks there with certainty. Theres plenty of other places that usually leak first, and these need to be thoroughly checked first. For the evaporator behind the dash, yes, its a big job.

Was the first oil GL4 or GL5? GL4 should be used, and not GL5 it seems

In theory a bearing can be replaced, but not usually worth it. If the cylinders or pistons are damaged, its scrap.

You can buy a garden pump thing, but stronger, that is made for oils. I have two, one for atf and one for gear oil. Everytime I change the engine oil, I suck out atf through the dipstick hole, and replace with the same quantity. Atf is cheap.

The cooler in the radiator is extremely effective. So add another one by all means, but keep the original, as you’ll need a massive extra one to replace it.

I saw the vid, and thought 1.7 litres between oil changes wasn’t a great deal, depending of course on oil change interval.

I undertand that ad blue goes off, even in a sealed container, as there is a use by date on the container. So what happens in a car that isnt used much? I have a Berlingo that holds something like 12 litres, which lasts me a good coupe of years with my low annual mileage. But no problems so far.

It might not be the case with yours, but many ad blue tanks/meters, only measure empty, 1/4, 1/2, and 3/4, so small topups dont always register.

There was a mixture of cars being produced in the film

Bullet proof, but not tree proof.

I think they took away the xylene solvent, which was an important ingredient. It was also the reason you needed their special cleaner, and why you had to recoat within a certain time frame.

If its got a loft pump it may well prime, but it will take lots of priming by turning on and off the ignition, as the pump only runs for a few seconds each time.

Its got plenty of rust breaking through the fresh underseal.

Its common. Theres so much fraud going on - scam claims, cloning etc.

It seems odd, as the only thing that happens with a fluid and filter change is unbolting the sump and removing the filter. I guess the filter could not be positioned correctly, or double gasketed, or there is not enough fluid. Have you checked the level properly? What says the garage? Did they...

3PSMF are classed as winter tyres in Norway, note, not M&S. However, typical all terrain tyres, like BFG A/T are not particularly good, despite meeting the requirements. But its unlikely you would want to splash out on dedicated winter tyres just for the trip.

In theory it sees the dpf is full or filling up, so it initiates a regen. At the end of the regen it again checks the pressure differential across the dpf to make sure the regen has been successful. If it still sees a big difference it concludes the dpf is full and sets the code. In other words...

I can’t see its a proper DPF system as it has no way to monitor in and out pressures, and therefore calculate ash load, initiate a regen, and then recalculate its effectiveness. It looks more like an additional standard diesel exhaust filter.

Are you sure the centre diff unlocked?

No, I think the corners are part of the main ’tray’. I seem to remeber I ordered something that looked right, but were not. In the end a think I used silicone instead.

The plastic in the sunroof drain surround in the front corners also splits/breaks.

Is there still Mailboxes etc in England? They were UPS agents before. You will need to do the CN22 forms, accurately. However, I have a feeling none of the carriers except post office will take car parts.

You can buy a leather kit to recover it. I did mine and its not too bad.

There was a guy on the facebook group looking for a manual without rotten chassis.

Depends how bad the rust is.

Mine came in 2 parts, but I seem to remember there was some confusion when ordering. I don’t remember exactly, but what turned up first time was one correct part, and something else. They then fiddled about on the computer and ordered something else, which turned out to be the correct half pipe...

And don’t forget to find and fix the leak.

The replacement part is 2 pieces, that way it can be fitted easily.

The last ones I got from Milners didn’t have the specially angled grease nipple, so once on the car they can’t be regreased.

If its well protected underneath, how come the pipes would be corroded. It could well be the condensor or compressor front seal.

I’ve always used Dinitrol on older stuff, and recently new stuff. ML first, and then something on top. ML works fairly well on previous slightly rusty stuff, but isn’t 100% effective. Every year or two it needs a bit of a touch up where it has come unstuck, and the stuff on top of it has dried...

Yes, a new commercial Jimny. I got it last september for list price (in Sweden).

I bought a new Jimny and plan on keeping it for a long time. Dumped gallons if Dinitrol in and over it - chassis, doors, sills, bonnet, scuttle, pillars, tailgate, cross members. 6 months later and it still stinks to high heaven. On a hot day it knocks you bandy when you open the door.

It happened rather quickly - one day good, next day shaking. Thanks for the advice.

Great, I’ll take a look. How do you remove the glass to access what lies behind?

The glass in the door mirrors is now a little ’loose’ ie the glass vibrates as you drive. It seems well attached, bit what its attached to has gone sloppy. Any thoughts?

Toyota usually have a large glass palace with lots of people floating aroung seemingly doing little. Roughtrax have a small unit on an industrial estate with a handfull of staff.

Strange that it failed on ns rear lower seat elt mount, then passed, then a couple of years later failed on the same thing.

With electrical problems, alway check aftermarket installation jobs first.

I see they’re trying the old ’spare or repairs’ sales trick.

Its aftermarket with a vacuum actuator. I had something similar years ago called Gold Cruise, or something.

I did mine about about 15 years/100k miles ago, so maybe its time to do them again.

That’s a blast from the past

Do as you likey!

You have fuel stations with attendants?

He needs to mark it up substantially to cover all the work required on the last failed MOT

Grimbo, do you follow VHS Rallies on the youtube? All the old stuff on there.

It’s had more hits than Elvis!