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If the hose is set up correctly the oil from the little catch tray under the filter should end upo coming out the same place as the drain in the sump. My hose had hardened and cracked so I fitted a new hose and routed it down to the same hole in the undertray. Its not a stupid system IMHO its a...

I'd fit a new rad and thermostat probably a 76 deg one if you can find one. A good Nissens brand rad is just over 100 stg and will make life simpler, the old ones block up inside and flushing doesn't seem to work.

I put up 276k miles on mine without and drama, the only real failure I had was the front diff when the oil seals failed and I didn't notice the oil had gone. Apart from that its all been plain sailing, just regular oil changes and general maintenance and they will go for a long time. I'd...

Rough shutdown could indicate a problem with the butterfly in the throttle body. Is it sticking after you adjusted the cable? If its stuck open it will cause the symptoms you describe.

Apart from the bulkhead ;) They don't get up enough speed to blow any oil back onto the bulkhead to stop it rusting through.

Jeekers, thats some tinworm! It must be salt, because the roads here in Ireland aren't salted (potholed instead) and my 1997 chassis looks like a new one compared to that.

Nice. Is that Singapore?

There is a known fault with the bolts that hold the dash to the support tube under the dash. Maybe this is your problem? http://forum.ih8mud.com/90-series-tech/ ... d-fix.html

What condition are the airbox clamps like? If they are faulty there can be a rattle from the lid. Mine was missing a clip so I used a bungy to secure the lid.

Its a whine/drone that comes from the passenger footwell. The fix is to undo the return banjo on the fuel pump and stretch the spring very slightly to allow the valve to seat properly. Theres no rattle involved.

Would a roll pin work for this?

Last fill averaged 27mpg. I have got much better though up to 31 mpg. Manual SWB 1KZ-TE with 4.100 diffs and 265/75 16 tyres. and 275k miles on the clock :dance:

Rancho are made by Monroe, the standard Adventure shocks are good for general use, I think the 5000 and 9000 are a bit more off-road orientated and consequently a little harder for road usage.

Quite a few from the 4Runner fit as well, bear in mind that most US models are petrol as opposed to the diesels over this side of the Atlantic. Hilux Surf KZN185 have mostly the same running gear.

Steering box? There is a rack and a pump thats it. It could be your rack bushes have started to deteriorate, its an easy enough fix and not dear.

My sticker on the inside of the bonnet says 5w30 in winter. I don't bother, I use 15w40 all year round. I have no faith in that lighter oil on older engines like mine.

I tackled my LCA bushes today, it was a bit of a long job but not that difficult, just time consuming. Remove all the bolts and studs that hold the steering rack in place, this allows enough space to pull the bolts and cams free. Use a 4.5" grinder with a very thin cutting disc (1mm) to cut the...

The front diff holds ~1.1 litres and the rear holds 2.9 litres Front diff I would use a good quality Synthetic Oil, there isn't much oil in it and it does the same work as the rear diff.

89545-35030

On dirt bikes we used to use nylon stocking type material to stop mud from building up on rads. The material allows good airflow but is fine enough to stop mud from penetrating between the rad fins. Maybe this could work on a 4x4 radiator? Clean up is simples just move the material and the mud...

Just for your information, Toyota make their temp gauges with a dead spot purposely to stop people freaking out about the needle moving during normal useage and the consequent flood of telephone calls. The needle will only start to move when the coolant is over 90 deg C which is getting...

A smidgin under 3 litres usually does my back diff.

I think part of the problem is aircon, thats a constant drag even when switched off. The Irish model GL= FX didn't come with aircon in fact I don't think any of the 90 series had a/c as standard unlike the UK models which also had rear lockers as standard. I can't think of what else might cause...

Plain old 1KZTE with just about 270k miles on the clock. I have never even pulled the injectors yet! it seems to run fine so I may as well leave it alone.

Mines a Manual I brimmed it today after the light came on, 477 miles for 73 litres. Not too bad I suppose.

From brimmed I always get around 430-450 miles before the orange light shows permanently.

I have the same steel rims with 265/75 16 tyres on them on my 90, I also have the 4.100 diffs and they are fine with a manual transmission. I had 265/70s before on the same rims and they were fine even though they are 6". I don't know what the Auto will be like but I would think it will still...

That should be a runner, once a vehicle has FL plates it can be used interstate AFAIK.

It depends on which of the 52 states you are going to use it in. Not all states have the same laws.

They aren't bad prices to be honest. I paid 500e for the 4.100 diff in mine 2nd hand. Mines a DD though and I couldn't afford another week off the road.

There is no gasket shown on the EPG, I would get a tube of the blue loctite gasket RTV and use that when you refit the sump. It doesn't look like a big job, just messy.

I wonder what part failed first? Mine was the pinion bearing, that seems to be where the most load is situated and its only supported on one side. Yours on the other hand has plenty of oil so possibly one of the centre gears lost a tooth during hard offroad loading and the resulting shrapnel...

The dustcovers are quite big 3.5" dia or so and sit inside the hub with a flare to stop them going in too far. The only way I could get mine out was to bash away until a gap opened enough to get a big screwdriver in and twist, and worked around the cap. Different to the 80's I think.

Sharpish cold chisel or screw driver and prise it out enough so you can lever it off.

No mines a shorty, I followed your advice and took it off before I removed the diff. I found it handy to have a trolley jack to support the weight of the diff as I removed the bolts.

My manual says to stick two long bolts through the holes in the flange and tighten with a nut then use a bar through the two bolts with a breaker bar in the opposite direction. I got my wife to sit in and push the brake. This stopped the wheels turning and I could get purchase on the flange...

Sorry you are right I meant just take the ring gear off and leave the pinion in place. Drop the prop and leave it off. Easy job 8 bolts and a bit of a tap with a hammer and it'll drop off. Keep it filled with oil and you will be fine. I drove mine for a bit like that, and it was different much...

I'd stick the best synthetic GL-4 75w90 you can get in the front diff. IMHO. It runs hot, under the engine with minimal airflow to cool it, it has only 1/3 of the oil capacity of the rear diff and is permanently driven at 50% of the torque.

Can't really run without the diff and driveshafts in place. The driveshafts hold the hub in place when the hub bolt is tightened. If you run without them you are just relying on the interference fit of the wheelbearing in the hub to hold your wheel on. What you could do is remove the front diff...

My Gregorys manual gives the Lower at 130NM and upper at 115nm with the vehicles weight on the wheels.

Clips are the same, seals are different IIRC. I can't check toyodiy Its blocked where I work... Buy a couple of the clips, they are cheap and handy to have if you need to pull the DS at any point. Those fence pliers are great things to have really useful tools! Just a thought, that long pipe is...

Easy enough to do. Drain diff. Take off wheel, prise off the black dustcap over the front hub nut. remove the split pin and lockwasher. get a helper to push the brake while you undo the nut. Undo the 4 bolts that secure the bottom balljoint to the lower arm slide the hub off the driveshaft and...

I don't know enough about those R56 and 57 diffs, I just researched the R16-17 thing when mine was busted. Maybe they are the same internally but you would want to be very sure what they were. AFAIK they were only used on later model 90 series with the D4D engine but if a 98 Prado had one...

You can only see what it is once you have it out. If there is no VIN then theres not much you can do until you can physically inspect it. When I was searching around, I found one in a garage in Galway, he assured me it was an R16. rang a mate in Galway to have a look and pick it up if...

The only 90's that came with the 4.100 were either Japanese imports with an Auto or the TX/GL versions that came with 215-80 section tyres and no body flares (Commercials) If your front diff says R17 then it is 4.300. R16 diffs are a lot rarer, as I found out when I went looking for one. Your...

Have a look at your VIN plate, the bottom row has 4 groups of numbers. The 3rd group will say which diff you have on the rear. 4.300 or 4.100 and if its LSD, manual or open It won't tell you the front diff ratio but it has to be the same as the rear if its a permanent 4wd. Thats why they have a...

Shizer. Thats not good, but at least you discovered it during low speed manoeuvres. What mileage is on yours? Mine let go around 260k miles so they are quite robust but I guess offroading loads things differently.

I agree with Cabman, CV sounds most likely. Hopefully its not the diff. Thing is, changing the front diff isn't actually that hard, its just time consuming and awkward. I am going to run fully synthetic diff oils next service, The front especially is marginally lubricated considering the work it...

What happened with my diff was as the front bearing collapsed, the pinion actually bent. Badly. This locked the whole diff up. If your bearing is just slightly bad and the pinion is just a little bent as it turns the teeth contact the ring gear and make the car jump. Unlikely your pinion will...

I have 265/75-16 BFG and they fit fine, they only rub on the chassis rail on full lock. Mine is standard suspension not lifted at all. If you want to lift it don't let me dissuade you :D