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Ahh well can't do anything about that now!

I'm looking to play around with the lift/ride height on my coil converted VDJ79, the conversion uses 80 series rear coils so I'm looking for the following: Standard height 80 series rear springs in decent condition VDJ79 standard rear shocks, standard front shocks and standard front springs -...

Ok, I've never used them so don't have first hand knowledge of them, so was just curious.

Why not ARB lockers? I recall the Harrop e-lockers disengage if you let the vehicle roll back a touch for some reason. Not sure if that’s completely correct though

Yes, although if you go down that route you will need the ECU, wiring looms, actuator and dash switch as well, and I think one of the half shafts is longer too

This guy used to sell a kit to convert to factory lockers, not cheap though. Tom's-Fahrzeugtechnik-Shop - Warengruppen - [Leaving Land Cruiser Club]

The diff carrier is the same between the GRJ/VDJ etc. It's the ring & pinion that differs. Also the axle/diff housing may need a bit of grinding to suit a locker (although I think that only if you go for a factory locker). I fitted a 200 series diff in my VDJ as that's what was available 2nd...

I used the MDT Trutracker axle to sort out the track on mine. Was easy enough to do but certainly not as cheap as spacers.

The instructions for the kit state: • This coil kit must be welded by a qualified boilermaker or welder. • Recommended minimum welding procedure of AS 1554. • Vehicle must be inspected for a LS6 code once completed So I guess they will be looking at the welding and/or whatever the LS6...

Are you going bolt in or weld in? I guess the only thing they will check is the standard of installation?

I have converted mine but I'm in the UK and we have different rules. We don't have SSM or engineering modified cars. I would contact Superior as they would know all about it I'm sure.

I have a used double din surround that you are welcome to if you want it, just pay the postage.

I guess you would be relying on on silicone sealant or similar and run the risk of it leaking at some point

Here they are, let me know if you want any more.

Ok I'll get some pictures at the weekend for you.

Only after the hole was altered to suit the Safari snorkel, I can upload them if you like.

I've got an OE snorkel from my VDJ79 as I swapped it for a Safari Armax, so could get pics and dimensions if that would help.

It already had the intermittent wipers. I changed the whole wiper/indicator stalk assembly to the LHD type, but initially I bought a new RHD type by mistake.

I had a look at fitting variable speed to my 79, as I found the correct stalk to do it, but ended up just replacing the original for a new one, it's a VDJ79 so has intermittent, slow and fast. I have a new one surplus to requirements too. I can check wiring diagrams too for relays etc if you like?

What year is it?

What are you asking for it? And can you ship it?

Are you selling either of them? I'm looking for one for my 79 to experiment with making it full time 4wd

You don't have to strip out the tank or interior, just the handbrake lever gaiter to undo the 10mm tensioning nut and the cable anchor.

Hi, I think it's for 2009 onwards, when they changed to the plastic dash, the screen is bonded on those. I got the correct seal for my truck from Partsouq. I don't have this seal any more, I should delete the ad.

80 series I think

I'm looking for a HF2AV transfer box, preferably in working order but anything considered.

I fitted a Nitro Gear helical gear type LSD to the front and rear of my VDJ79. I got them sent over from the US to Scotland but maybe you can get them a bit closer to home?

Certainly sounds like an immobilizer issue. When I changed the ignition barrel & keys on my VDJ79 the same thing happened until I fitted the new immobilizer ECD and went through the procedure to make the new immobilizer ECU talk to the main one.

I have them for a 70 series V8 but I guess they will be different to the 200

Seen that 76 for sale a few times now?

You can do one at a time, I tend to slacken them all first, then crank it, whilst cranking keep an eye out and once it starts spitting fuel out tighten that one, and continue until you have done them all. It might be as simple as just pumping the priming pump though so try that in the first...

Have you tried priming the fuel system? Pump it until you feel a good bit of resistance building up. Then crack off the injector pipes at the injectors and crank the engine. Once you see fuel coming out tighten up the lines and that should be it bled. It's better if you have someone to crank it...

Might be of interest if you didn't know already but the Factory Service Manual gives this info for recommended plugs: Manufacturer Product DENSO - K20HR-U11, NGK - LFR6C-11 Gap for new plugs = 1.0 - 1.1mm Tightening torque = 20NM

I've tried dealing with that place. Next to impossible, he obviously doesn't need to sell anything. Either that or there is a big market somewhere for his stuff so he doesn't have to be flexible.

I have a new unused windscreen seal for a 70 Series Land Cruiser, it's the later type for bond in screens, that's the ones with the plastic dash. Part number is 56121-60140, genuine Toyota part. I'd like £30 for it plus postage at cost. Collection from Fife also welcome.

Is this any use?

I'll have a look and let you know. I've got the factory repair manuals for the 70 series so should have it

According to the manual you have to remove the ECM to get to the relay. Location of relay as shown in this pic.

Ok here is the wiring diagram, the side lights are called front clearance lights on there and it looks like everything is powered via the tail light relay.

Ok got you. I'm just looking through the drawing now so hopefully I'll find something useful for you.

Out of curiosity what lights are you calling park lights? I guess you have different terminology in Oz to what we use in the UK.