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FWIW, these are 16x8, -12mm offset, 285/75's relative to USDM flares. Picked up 5 w/ centers for under USD $500. BTW, no spacers here. Spacers work if you're willing to afford the necessary maintenance thereof. If not, avoid spacers at all costs.

IME the switch alone does not enable a locked center in HI, thereby resulting in speeds above what LO allows w/o ABS. That requires an additional modification which ensures one will be found at fault in the event of an on-road, at-speed accident.

Mine has the switch and a VC. Great point about open center in LO, tho.

You're right. Checked it out on a trail run this weekend. No CDL light at key on. :thumbup:

Great news! What's going on with the rear lock?

All the diff lock lights should illuminate briefly when the key is turned to the 'ON' position. Do you see any lights in that regard?

Indeed they are very strong compared to other available rigs out there. Just mentioning as some guys here will mod to engage lockers independently and it doesn't always work well with just the front diff pulling the truck over a 10 ft rock just to say "they could". Hopefully no kiss o death...

Just a heads up, the bush collars for the t-case shifter are NLA. We have a vendor who is hand making them: https://absolute-wits-end.com/80-series-transfer-case-shifter-collar-bushing-sold-individually/ If you want to also address a floppy transmission shifter at the same time, this kit will...

That relay is clearly not up to the task of moving the current demanded by the devices it serves. Great catch! Could have been a total loss. Recommend replacing with an up-rated relay for sure.

OneStone rests?

Careful, that front diff was never intended to carry the full weight of the truck alone. Granted you have some forward propulsion from the rear, but I wouldn't get too crazy till you get that rear lock sorted. Nice rig, btw. :thumbup:

On USDM models, that button only came from factory on 93 and 94 years. 95+ models automatically locked the center diff when shifted into LO range. +1 the button can be fitted to all models 93 to 97 as the wiring harness for all models is the same. The plug for the switch is behind a blank...

If by facia kit you're talking about a surround for the faceplate/front of the unit, a double din unit sits fairly tight w/i the double din hole in the dash. Otherwise, you can get a 8"x8" piece of ABS plastic and easily cut out a surround to fit if you like.

Interesting info here. We in the US are terminally stuck with 12V it seems for most civil applications. I went the other way on my 80 and added (overlaid rather) 24V to the native 12V for all non-OEM devices. Partly because I wanted the runtime, partly because the cost of the wiring required...

Those are indeed two areas where play is induced. The matchmarks are per FSM, but only created by the disassembler in the execution of that task. Theory goes that disassembly isn't required when simply tightening to increase the preload in an attempt to account for the bedding in (fix the play...

Ok wow. How does that PPS part attach to the rest of the box? I see it comes in over the input shaft, but where/how does it connect to the box itself? edit: Saw the second pic after this post. 99.9% sure the part I recommended won't work. My mistake. Now I'm really curious if a PPS box is...

The 105 box, at least in USDM model 80s, is a direct replacement for the 80 box. The only diff I'm aware of is the shaft and its larger diameter, requiring a pitman arm matching that diameter.

Just a data point, I ran Patagonia A/T in 265/70 16. Highly recommend. They've changed the tread pattern since I owned them, but would guess they are still quite good. Very much a street tire but with an enormous amount of sipes. Great in the winter.

Late to the party but wanted to leave a note about the 'automatic' chains mentioned in the warning OP received and posted. I tried to run the Auto-Trac chains from Peerless in the beginning on 265/70-16s. And this was before the overland build out on the truck. I was having to get these...

Can you post pics of this PPS box? I can't find anything on them, at least in terms of relating to 80 series. RHD/LHD, shouldn't matter with regard to 44120-60180. The PPS part tho...I can't even find an epv on it. I used a tie rod puller to get the pitman off. Just be sure it's of a size...

33F/35R on 285/75-16. (Falken AT3W) 6000#+ GVW 80 series Not a daily, so an uneven wear pattern is slow in coming. No roar thus far after about 3 yrs and 10kmi and one rotation. Wear looks even.

Didn't see this on the list. I don't have a write up but have performed the mod following the linked video to stash a 33" tire so that it reaches just even with the bottom of a tow bar(hitch) if you have one installed. Incidentally, I also stow the spare with about 5 psi to get a little more...

That video may show it, but replacing 44120-60180 - along with the reseal kit - will resolve it. Unless: 1 - splines on shaft are twisted - need to replace that too if so. 2 - teeth on shaft show significant wear. They should be mirror polished with only evidence of meshing with the teeth on...

Post a video if you can. Any number of things it could be. Can the rattle be heard when rocking the truck side to side? Maybe banging on the doors from the outside?

Wow, ok 11 threads is a non-starter. Sounds like drive line bushes since you aren't far off from nominal. Do all the FCA bushes first and re-eval. Move to panhard bushes after that. Guessing your suspension (springs/shocks) is vintage?

If the splines on the shaft where the pitman arm connects are still straight, then the shaft should still be good and no need replace. This second hand box you installed...try adjusting the nut on top. The default setting is about 3 to 4 threads showing above the nut. Fewer threads showing...

I went where you think you need to go. It takes more than just the reseal kit - 04445-60050 - Steering box reseal kit To completely take care of it you also need the following: 2* - 44154-30020 - Power piston plunger guide nut - Partsouq - $5 - I required 2 of these because I went just with the...

Selling a REDARC2410 BCDC - this is a 9-32V to 24v converter/charger. It is the predecessor to the 2420BCDC. Looks just like the 2420, only 2 differences: 1) most obvious is a 10A charge rate instead of 20A 2) less obvious is that it does not contain the MPPT solar controller. I used it for...

Did this start immediately after the head work? If so, take it back to the mech and have them check it out. May be pinched/damaged wiring in the engine harness. What condition is that in? Specifically in and around where it comes off the firewall and runs down into the engine.

I'm curious if this lead is available too. It is the lead that plugs into the port circled in black.

Your statements, 'the paper clip test' and 'limp mode', don't go together in my mind. Is the AU 40th OBD1?? Need a code reader otherwise.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/repairing-differential-e-lockers.570087/

Rhino-Rack not an option in your area? We can't get the welded-rail rack anymore, tho i managed to snag one before they stopped shipping to the States. Well built and sturdy.

https://huddexpo.com/1991-1997-80-series-floor-mats/ While not OEM they are cut for the 80 series, thick, and have good backing. Front and middle rows available. Highly recommend (if you can get them shipped to you which I think you should be able to)

Was just about to ask when I saw your comment, "No CEL". The truck will not run w/o that light on in the ACC or ON positions. So start there. Get the light back on and your issues are solved as it sounds like everything else is working properly. There are many many threads on t-shooting that...

So error 55 is related to the rear-most knock sensor. Error 24 ... recommend taking a look on ih8mud.com. This error could be legit and/or it could be a screwed up MAF. Did you get yours new? And have you pulled power to reset for new codes after install?

The felt is intended to make up for "clearance" in that area. No need "chrome". lol What a load.

Guessing there's no AutoZone or O'Reillys or general automotive parts store in UK to get a free batt load test. But yes, load test each individually. But then you mention the install dates...lol. Def batt issues. :thumbup:

Cam sensor? On a '93? What codes are you seeing?

Sounds like warped rotors to me. But then came across a YT video (didn't watch it) that claimed warped rotors weren't possible. To which I say, BS. At any rate, have the vibrations come on all at once, or over time? If over time, prob a rotor issue...that could be caused by a sticky piston.

I'm referring to the function of the button, OEM vs OEMplus (modified). lol And this sounds "custom". The front shouldn't lock w/o the rear first, in OE trim anyway. The front wasn't designed to take much of the drive line stress alone. That said tho, with all of these rigs being 25 years or...

Have you tried disconnecting the battery for 15 minutes or so?

Agreed there is a different shift pattern between low and high. But using the button in my rig makes no difference in that regard. How does it work in yours? I can lock the CD at will with the push of the button, low or high. If I attempt to engage the axle locks w/o hitting the CD button, the...

Could a PO have performed the pin7 mod to your rig? In the US, the factory center diff switch originally only allowed an unlocked center in low. If you are getting a response in high, it suggests the mod has been performed. But I'm also willing to accept that different markets received...

One trick is to swap the CV's between sides. This places the force on the opposite side of the CV balls and cup. Not a permanent fix but can shut the clicking up for some miles while you budget new ones.

If I may respectfully disagree, and too perhaps I misunderstand your previous... ...my experience is that the pin 7 mod (and button) allows full, manual control over the center lock, at all times, in low or high range. W/o the mod, and regardless of the button, the center only locks when the...

Ok, so now that it's at the mechanic...what is to be done?

Well, low certainly increases torque to the axles. But "powered 4wd" is only achieved with 3 locks - 1 center and 2 axles. A switch on the center only ensures power to each axle (2wd) Not each wheel (4wd) It could be said that today's AWD is yesterdays "4WD" in the sense that - in my '80s/'90s...