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Ye mate simple job to be honest. The main one is watching the Teflon rings don’t get buggered when reinstalling. Had to get a replacement out for mine when I snapped one.

These are what the seals looked like prior to the rebuild. Snaggy.

Steering box rebuilt. A few snags on the way but all sorted. Will get it back on the truck after I’m done with the rad, water pump and belts.

I just find it easier and it’s peace of mind. To me, and I’m not mechanic (as can be clearly seen in this thread ) but if I’m getting the OEM bolt or nut I know it’s the same spec as the one Toyota put in there. In some instances I think it’s safe to assume the bolt is intentionally the weakest...

What you on about? That’s mint condition. Ready for Facebook marketplace haha

Some images of how it’s going….

I’m hoping to get some time this weekend to give it another crack before I’m away for a bit. If I don’t get them off now it’s going to sit for a while so last chance saloon or they are getting the chop.

For me it’s probably a combo of being a snob for OE bits and peace of mind that makes me go for amayama or a Toyota branch, the local Toyota branch for me have been sound. But you do pay out your hoop which is getting boring so I’ll probably give up on that at some point haha

Hey mate, we’ve already chatted on Facebook and instagram. I’m in, my wagons an auto. Just let me know when you are going ahead with them.

Did you just get a load from Toyota or amayama? I’m planning to do the same.

Cheers guys. Seems every battle I have with this wagon has to do with seized bits. Looking at its history it did sit for a pretty long period before I picked it up but I’m clutching at straws to make up for my inability to crack nuts off that and I’ve sheared so many now I’ve lost count.

I’ve borrowed some decent spanner’s from work and I’ve got an extender on order so I’ll see how it goes on the next attempt. Failing that I’ll try everything out through the front which will be a pain. Or I’ll just cut the stupid thing off and replace it, new pump has bolts, will just need a new...

Alright guys, back again. I’m struggling to get the nuts off the viscous fan clutch, please see the photo (mates wagon not mine, mine are in a significantly worse state). It just keeps turning which doesn’t allow me to get enough power to break them. I’ve used loads of different sprays etc...

Quick resurrection. Has anyone removed the rear window sprayer to mount a reverse camera? A friend of mine has mounted his there but it was a blank hole with no washer sprayer in it. Mines intact but doesn’t work so I reckon that a reverse camera would be a better use of the spot, I just don’t...

Worked a treat. Was a bit janky but a few rotations and it was like new. Did the screw, the nut and the internal thread in the side assembly to be safe. But it doesn’t end there. The power piston plunger guide nut (notorious for needing to be replaced on a rebuild) has peeled in. Local Toyota...

Ye so I’ve got a tap and die kit on route at ridiculous cost (all up im at what a replacement box would have cost!) just to get the right thread pitch for these ridiculous Toyota threads. I’ll see when it arrives today, if I don’t get that right I’ll just go for the replacement screw and side...

So after all of that the sector shaft adjuster screw copped some damage, not sure when or how, either way it was me or the garage that removed the pitman arm but the side cover assembly piece won’t go back on due to the thread being mangled. I can use a tap and tie set but I’m not sure if I want...

Ye I went for a Nissens. Will update in 3-5years time if I ever get this thing back on the road.

Ye mate same page, I’ve got full terrain tamer hose and clamp kits good to go on. Currently deep in a steering box rebuild that is not going to plan but the hope is radiator and belts this weekend.

Ye I need to drill out the bolt I have snapped off in my under chassis mount in that case. I’ll give it a crack tomorrow. I’m also keen on the LCP option which would mean I potentially don’t have to extract the snapped bolt by the look of them? I’ve got a mate heading to the states shortly, if...

Attacking this one again while my power steering is down and out. Has anyone installed the chassis mounted drop plate style sway bar attachments? I have holes on the side of the chassis for them, but they aren’t captive. I’m basically trying to figure out if I need to weld a threaded boss or...

Ye no bueno. Won’t come off.

I’ve had to undo the steering shaft from inside the wagon and feed it out with the box. Can’t get it off for anything. I’ve dropped it off at a mechanic. Defeat is real.

I looked long and hard for Dobinsons as well mate, couldn’t find anything. Devon 4x4 stock EFS I think? But their prices are always quite steep. The guys at 4x4works stock terrain tamer and OME coils and a range of shocks. I went Koni shocks and OME coils and it’s been decent.

I’ll give it one more shot with this stuff. If I can get it off I’ll crack the rebuild, throw the chicken bones and pray to the Toyota gods that all my prying and hammering hasn’t done any other damage.

Alright I’m done, after hours of heating, prying, hammering and two cans of WD40. Took 3 of us and we all admitted defeat. Anyone able to sell me a reconditioned box that will arrive before this weekend? Also… steering shaft is seized onto the box, both sides of the UJ are impossible to get...

I can’t see any cracks. Pipe joints are tight. It looks like it’s coming from where that pipe joins on the second pic but I can’t be sure. I’ve degreased and had another look the next day at the power steering res, it’s now completely Winchester and there’s fresh fluid on the box and chassis so...

Alright guys, looking for some advice/diagnosing help. I was driving along, heard what sounded like sucking air and some screeching. Pulled over had an inspection under the wagon and there’s oil/fluid pissing out from under the steering box. The power steering res is still holding steady on...

I just sprayed them in the end. Trashed the finish in a few places when I was getting them back on anyway so powder coat would have been a waste.

Parts of it you’ll look at it and think it was some old biddys daily driver, other parts look like it’s been back to backing Dakar.

Radius arm castor correction bushes done. Again, original ones were in an absolute state. Ratchet straps and FSM are your friend when taking them off. I just cuffed it on a whim thinking it couldn’t be too hard and didn’t read anything in the FSM, when I was under my wagon with a headtorch in...

Can anyone tell me the main differences between the pre and post 93 sway? Is it just the link arms and bushes or the actual shape and routing on the vehicle? 4x4 works stock a heavy duty post 93 one, my wagon is July 92. Just trying to figure out if it’s possible to make it work. Cheers

I like to do this with parts. I buy loads then stare at them for a month hoping they’ll get themselves on the car.

I’ve been going through a similar process recently, spraying the odd bit and lano guarding as well. I’ve used a combo of a drill with wire wheel for tighter areas, angle grinder with a variety of attachments an orbital sander and the usual hand wire brushes etc. Angle grinder is aggressive...

‘92, 197k. Starts fine, idle revs are too low but any attempt to adjust sends it to either 600 or 1100rpm, no middle ground. Fuel filters just done and no to having checked the rest you’ve suggested. I’ve asked for a compression test on two separate occasions at separate garages and had no...

We are a bit thin on the ground down here. I’ve moved from Devon where I was spoilt for choice with decent 4x4 garages, I’m now spending an irrational amount of time on google maps hunting down smaller garages. I’m booked in for some work with LAR in June, I don’t particularly want to wait that...