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We've had wet periods before but one thing that really gets up my pipe is that all this excess water is going to waste and some of the various water authorities have said they cannot guarantee there won't be a hosepipe ban if we get a long dry spell in Summer. They were discussing this a couple...

Tempting fate here but I've never had trouble with the immobiliser. When I had an extra key cut the dealer had to wipe the immobiliser ECU as it already had 4 keys registered which is the max allowed. Fortunately the key I got with the truck was the master which is needed to wipe/reprogram the...

That cover is present on mine although it's not shown in the FSM. The TVSS and immobiliser are completely separate. The immobiliser was factory fitted and the TVSS isn't but was fitted by Toyota GB.

The relay underneath the battery box that powers the 1HD-FT's intake heater, was/is certainly an issue and needs checking but it won't bring on the light on the dash. It's just a basic relay that operates when told to and has no input to the actual operation of the cold start heater. I changed...

There's numerous ways you can disable a vehicle with a hidden switch and that's what I'd be doing if I owned one.

I take it the AC wasn't working?:laughing-rolling:

Not sure why anyone would want to order OEM nuts and bolts when there are numerous companies in the UK that make and stock them. You might as well replace them with stainless while you're at it. A bespoke vehicle component is one thing but general nuts and bolts?

I've not seen these before, dual purpose starter/deep cycle leisure batteries. If they physically fit then I can't really see any problem other than they're not "handed" like the Varta's are so a bit of cable rerouting may be required and also new clamps. I'm not that clued up on the boating...

Did the oil pressure drop suddenly without warning? Have you noticed the oil pressure getting lower over time? I'd expect a clogging oil strainer to show this as it gets worse. The main and BEB's will be the first things to suffer from a pressure loss, especially if the engine is under heavy...

I used that on a seized motorcycle swingarm bolt and it worked after all else failed. Heat, then cold shock with the freeze spray. It's flammable though so be very careful with the heatsource!:thumbup:

.....and make sure you put it/them on the right way round.:thumbup:

You don't need to spend that on a flaring tool. I bought one for around £25 whcih does the different typres of flare, inverted, bubble, double bubble etc. Once you've done a couple it's child's play and the pipe, copper/cunifer and the union nuts are cheap enough. I replaaced my flexis a couple...

As a (now ex) BT engineer, years ago when fibre broadband had just been launched, I arranged for the job to instal our connection to be issued to me as there would be no one else at home. I did fantastic job! :thumbup::laughing-rolling:

Does the estimate include uprating of brakes, suspension and the rest of the transmission? A standard LS3 puts out around 430bhp with similar torque figures, way too much for standard 80 running gear IMO, plus if they've never done an 80 before they're bound to hit unforeseen problems and...

When I removed mine with the nut welding method, I shielded the alloy wheel with a piece of thin wall tubing just big enough to fit in the nut well, then made a good job of the weld. I suspect the localised intense heat of the welding process helped a lot here.

The knackered locking nut has a revolving collar round the outside which spins so I doubt these would work even if they were big enough.

I had those locknuts on my LR Discovery and they were shite. I ended up doing as suggested above and welded a nut on the end which worked.

Yes, thinking about it, if the problems only in 2wd it must be the drive to the rear and not the front that's the issue.

Does it have free wheeling hubs? If it has it could possibly be one of those that has failed.

She's obviously flattened some grass in her time:thumbup: No reason why she shouldn't have plenty left in the tank though. Nothing wrong with a "good old'un":icon-biggrin:

I extended all my breathers high enough to not bother with the valves. If I end up in water deep enough to swamp the breathers I've got far more important things to worry about!:laughing-rolling:

There's so many factors that will affect this. I've done this with bikes but not cars and found prices vary massively from company to company and vehicle to vehicle. When I bought another new bike in 2020 I added it onto an existing policy for way less than the cost of a new policy but when I'd...

The air bag light is there! :laughing-rolling:It comes on on first key turn. If you turn the key back to "accessory" position and back to ign on it does not light. You have to turn the key back fully then back on. Curiously, the centre diff lock light does not come on (to the left of the front...

Ignition on....... .....after 2-3 seconds 4 have gone out......

Witter, one of the major manufacturers, no longer make them, Towsure only make them for the later 150 and the OEM Toyota offering is long gone. As mentioned there must be some sat around in breakers somewhere. Type approval for towbars came in on 1st August 1998 which muddied the waters somewhat...

Looking at the 2nd photo is does look like they are thinner pipes in some sort of insulation so AC is more likely than fuel. If it's just the brackets you want to renew, couldn't you just make some yourself?

Have you tried the Toyota EPC? Toyota EPC

Looks like fuel filler pipe?

Not sure about the Bread Van looks but everything else, the spec, performance and usability is certainly impressive. :thumbup:

Their place is where Kellet's used to be years ago. Springcoil Sheffield

The wiring diagram shows two seperate feeds form the sender unit, one for the gauge and another for the fuel light.

There's nothing that I can see regarding spring length in the FSM, only ride height measured at certain points on the chassis. I asked the spring Co. about copying an old, potentially weakened spring and they can compensate for that but without the exact length of a new OEM spring, surely there...

I would imagine the gauge is calibrated in psi or Bar or maybe both. I watched an episode of the Wheeler Dealers program where Edd China used a very similar device to test the injectors on a Merc. Basically just operate the handle and observe at what pressure the injector fires and the spray...

There's this one Injector tester , still pricey but as Grimbo has said, probably better to entrust them to a specialist if it's just foe a one off.

A company here in Sheffield, who supply springs to vehicle manufacturers and racing teams etc, can make any spring to any spec. They hold data on many vehicles, including uprated springs for a 100 series but don't have any for the 80 series so will need a spring to copy which makes things a bit...

Come to think of it, I had a coil spring made for an Opel Commodore by Kellett's in town back in the early 80's. They're long gone but there are other spring makers close by. Might give them a ring.

This is a job I've been contemplating for a while, standard 80 still with original springs. I've just priced up a set of 4 OEM on Amayama around £614 delivered including ID & VAT, +/- a few quid either way. Quite a bit more than off the shelf stuff but I don't want a lift or uprated springs...

Yes, just 4 bolts after removing the cover. Plenty of tales of woe on here regarding removal of actuators that will crumble to dust at the slightest provocation. Being cast alloy they corrode readily, almost like a sacrificial anode, if not well protected. Their fragility just makes removal even...

Shouldn't that be the other way round? That's what happens on many modern vehicles with DRL's, the light on the side with the flashing indicator dims or even goes out completely.

Can of worms springs to mind. There's one thing virtually guaranteed with rust and that's it's always worse than first it looks. Yes, I know they don't but they rarely get used on mine as I park facing downhill on the drive so the roof tray empties via the front drain tubes. I did find one...

I find it strange that the areas mentioned above are known rust traps yet, on Cruisers with an OEM sunroof where the sunroof drains empty into the sills which fill with water if/when the sill drains become blocked, the sills themselves don't seem to suffer. I looked in my sills with an endoscope...

Those rear quarters hold water, made worse by the fact the rear side sliding windows are prone to leak and are a real rust trap. I check mine regularly. The plastic arch flares and bumper end caps are also superb at hiding corrosion until it gets serious!:thumbdown:

Routine oil + filter change followed by cooling system flush and new coolant. I monitor the coolant every so often with one of those hydrometers with the 3 balls and noticed one of them had dropped indicating "medium" protection. The last change was with Halfords OAT long life (5 yrs) stuff and...

.....neither can I. I was just making the point that dash illumination couldn't be relied on to indicate the headlights were on. All road motorcycles in the UK have, for quite some time now, been legally required to run with dip beam headlights automatically when the engine starts, with no "off"...

In daylight, dash illumination (especially on an 80 series) is practically invisible so, if you came out of thick fog to brighter conditions lets say, you could forget the lights were on. I've done it and the only thing that gave the game away was that the clock dims when the lights are on!:wtf:

Is it something that"s appeared on "modern" vehicles which have DRL's in addition to H&L beam headlights?

Early 80 series LandCruisers in some markets were offered with an OEM part time 4wd system that did not have a CD. If part time 4wd is retro fitted to a full time vehicle the CD has to be modified or it will not work correctly. The CD lock button on the dash should then engage 4wd in the part...