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1992 FZJ80 with the 1FZFE: Daily Driver + Tourer

More fiddly jobs done (and none of the comments from the RWC inspector, but one might help)
  1. Fitted up a new O2 sensor, and that's improve the idle - drops down much quicker now on start up.
  2. New O-ring picked up for the dizzy, but not installed yet
  3. Spark plugs all re-gapped to 0.8mm - they were around 0.875
O2 sensor came out nice and easily, but the heat shield needed a bit of assistance with the grinder (luckily did it before the total fire ban came into place)

O-ring has all the hall marks of being a painful job, but I will get it done.... soon.

Spark plugs weren't too bad, until #6 where the heater tap is in the way a bit. Undo it, and it's all nice and easy to get at.

No photos - I'm rubbish when doing theses sort of jobs as I've broken too many phones working on cars...

Oh, and we filled up with fuel... yeah... uh... perhaps a Fuelly record isn't the best idea! Last tank (with a lot of town running, a duff O2 sensor and incorrect spark plug gap) was 18.1L/100km. At about the same, the 4Runner was doing 16-20L/100km, so if the O2 sensor was playing up as much as I think it is, then we should see some good improvements.
 
All the little things make a big difference with these engines, while you're doing the dizzy seal look into timing adjustments
http://www.lcool.org/technical/80_series/timing.html

Little tweaks improve power lower down and fuel consumption, I'm running 13 degrees advance, do have other things done too and run 98 octane. Wouldn't go that far without other work!
Revs pick up quickly and pulls well from low rpm.

Plugs are a nice easy job on these, worth a look at the contacts on the distributor cap and the rotor arm.
 
Going to look at that timing tweak, I had come across it before. Might take it to 5* or so for now.

Got the sparkplugs earlier this week as one of the parts stores had 30% off (about my target for those sort of deals)

Also managed to get the cars all lined up:
IMG_20190920_163426327_Blanked.jpg
 
And the 4Runner went off to pastures new after 6 years with us:
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The dog was a bit confused as to why the car was coming and and going without her...

Also changed the plugs in the 80 today:
IMG_20190921_173448275.jpg

Should help a bit as the old ones were quite worn really.
 
Got into the dizzy sorting today -the o-ring was solid and "thunked" when it came off and I dropped it into the tool box.

Did have a few false starts, had to get the dizzy to slide in at about the right spot to start with, but one of the FSMs I've found had the spots to line up to. Managed to get it right after a few goes (had some good spluttering etc) and then got it sorted.

Set the timing to about 6* for now, so we'll wait to see how it goes - I just need to take it for a run and get it to normal temp as I'd been doing it cold, and the timing is supposed to be set when warm.

It definitely doesn't like short trips... wife has chewed the fuel much to her dismay... I'm using it to get her back on her motorbike(s) as she's not that keen on using the ute to get to and from work (and that might be going onto historic rego in November which limits the amount it can be used)
 
Got a trip planned for December - only a little 1200km each way trip.... so I've started to organise things a bit for it.

I decided I wanted a gear loft to shove stuff up into, and after much searching I found one for a Gazebo... $15.... and I could get it in town. So I got the 80 off wife at lunch, and went and grabbed it and put it up:

Loaded up with my jacket and hat:
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Before I loaded it up after the first test fit:
IMG_20191014_140233035.jpg


I actually put it in upside down, which means the pockets can be flicked up into the loft, but also means I can have useful things in them that we need to get hold of frequently.

Planning on putting a strap across between the handles so it has a bit of support in the middle, the other way would be to tack on a couple of loops to go round the handles that are attached to the edge of the loft.


This is what I've got:
https://www.bcf.com.au/p/wanderer-gazebo-gear-loft/543229.html
BCF_543229_hi-res.jpg

I'm struggling to find an equivalent in the UK for you guys - GoOutdoors and Cotswold don't have anything quite like it.
 
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1000km this weekend, a good benchmarking trip as it's one we do quite often.

Delz had taken the Cruiser to Tamworth the other day and had it a bit slow coming up the last of the Moonbi range, so I knocked the timing back to 4* for this trip.

Averaged 13.8L/100km on the way down (21mpg-ish) and a touch worse on the way home (about normal compared to the 4Runners trends on the same journey), but most importantly it was an hour quicker each way as it carried an extra 20km/h or so up the hills and on the ranges.
 
That's pretty good going. Asks the question if a petrol is a better buy with you getting 21mpg on a run
 
That's pretty good going. Asks the question if a petrol is a better buy with you getting 21mpg on a run

It's in part why I went with the 1FZ-FE; it's similar enough to the 3VZ-E in the 4Runner which I had running well.

So far the tricks (things) I've done to it are:
1) O2 sensor: new one of those makes a huge difference to it's thirst
2) New spark plugs gapped correctly - the old ones were quite worn
3) Clean the intake manifold etc with some upper engine and intake cleaner
4) Run on 95 octane fuel (Aus gets 91 as well, and E10 blend), and a decent amount of injector cleaner through (I reckon it still needs another)
5) Tyre pressures run a smidge higher than they are supposed (36psi instead of 32)
6) Timing is set using the paperclip in the box, and set at about 4* - it then cycles correctly when the paperclip is removed; when it was on 7* it wasn't going quite right.
7) Clean air filter - it got a good blow out with the compressor he other day, and wasn't too bad... the mate's ute that we were supposed to be working on had a filter that weighed about 2kg more before it got cleaned out!

A diesel would probably have been about 10-11L/100km, so about 20-25% better off, but it would have cost another $10k to buy... so that $10k of fuel buys a hell of a lot of fuel!

I'll let you know how we go after driving to Melbourne... 1200km each way... At the fuel use we got on the way down, we'd be needing an extra 20Litres to get us there without needing to refuel!
 
Interested in the timing aspect plus general things to check. I may put shell vPower in next time on mine, that is 99ron and is E05 now, the car could definitely do with a bit more timing feels a bit flat.
Although I run LPG on my other 100l tank - extra timing would help that too. Sure wish I could have a play with the ignition and fuelling tables in the ECU.:anguished:
 
Interested in the timing aspect plus general things to check. I may put shell vPower in next time on mine, that is 99ron and is E05 now, the car could definitely do with a bit more timing feels a bit flat.
Although I run LPG on my other 100l tank - extra timing would help that too. Sure wish I could have a play with the ignition and fuelling tables in the ECU.:anguished:

Install MegaSquirt or a Haltech and have a separate map for LPG? That's almost the way that the factory (Holden/Ford) LPG stuff runs here; two maps and go!

I nearly put some 98 in yesterday, as it was only 6c/L more than the 95 was (and 7c cheaper than the 95 is at home) - I won't tell you what I'm paying a litre for 95, but it certainly makes it a viable option compared to a diesel!

On the intake manifold stuff, see if a Subaru dealer in the UK has an intake cleaning gunk like this:
http://www.barsleaks.com.au/product/subaru-upper-engine-cleaner/

I've run it through a couple of times in the past - last time I used one of the other ones from one of the other companies here. I recommend finding an empty industrial area to do it in, as it can lead to some good stuff coming out the exhaust if it's really bad!
 
Install MegaSquirt or a Haltech and have a separate map for LPG? That's almost the way that the factory (Holden/Ford) LPG stuff runs here; two maps and go!

I nearly put some 98 in yesterday, as it was only 6c/L more than the 95 was (and 7c cheaper than the 95 is at home) - I won't tell you what I'm paying a litre for 95, but it certainly makes it a viable option compared to a diesel!

On the intake manifold stuff, see if a Subaru dealer in the UK has an intake cleaning gunk like this:
http://www.barsleaks.com.au/product/subaru-upper-engine-cleaner/

I've run it through a couple of times in the past - last time I used one of the other ones from one of the other companies here. I recommend finding an empty industrial area to do it in, as it can lead to some good stuff coming out the exhaust if it's really bad!
Haltech was quite expensive when I looked the other day, megasquirt would be better but looks complicated, maybe in the future. Next time I’ll go for some 99rom fuel and see how it goes.
 
That's returned quite a good mpg, pretty much what I can get on a run. I've been running 98/99 octane for a while now and it's a noticable difference, performance is better, runs smoother and mpg is better generally.


As you say the extra money to buy a diesel engine pays for a lot of petrol.
 
That's returned quite a good mpg, pretty much what I can get on a run. I've been running 98/99 octane for a while now and it's a noticable difference, performance is better, runs smoother and mpg is better generally.


As you say the extra money to buy a diesel engine pays for a lot of petrol.

I suspect that it helps as well when we get on a run that we're at a lower altitude than we are at home (1,000m above sea level is the starting point of where things change in terms of boiling points and air pressure), but that can then be mitigated by upto 10*C warmer air temps, as up high we're cooler.

The jump to 98 is huge here; I pay $1.53 for 95, but 98 is $1.66, so that 10% makes quite a bit of difference. I might do it when we get a good price on some. Normally that's not around here, but when we're out on the road - for example, down the hill (110km away) it's $1.58, only 9c more than 95 is down there.

$10k+ difference in price between a FZJ80 and a HDJ80, so if you assume that's a 25% improvement in fuel consumption, then you're looking at about 200,000km to cover that increased cost I worked out... but that doesn't include the increased costs of oils and filters etc for the diesel.
 
This weekend's game...

We tend to have a strong smell of petrol after a run, normally from around the rear corner, but also in the cab sometimes when the windows are open.

I've already replaced the fuel filler gap, but that didn't cure it, so this weekend I set to it.

The suspected culprit is the carbon canister - according to IH8Mud, unobtainable - so I've been trying to make sure ours functions correctly. Following the FSM, ours is marginal on some parts (5B) but fine on others (4):

1586763117399.png


1586762693046.png
1586762693046.png
1586762693046.png

Now what I have worked out is that the one way vale in the top of the canister isn't quite working right - With the purge pipe pulling vacuum, air only comes in through the tank pipe when the bottom pipe is closed.

Is that the correct configuration? If so, will a one-way check valve in the bottom hose ensure that it draws correctly. I've done 6 (the clean) a few times, but that doesn't seem to have cured the one way part.

Has anyone else got a suggestion or any other comments?
 
My canister has the same fault as your one, I got this from the USA as the recommendations on IH8Mud but I have not got round to fitting it yet. I was considering removing it altogether but not 100% sure what it involves


There is a few YT videos of making it fit
 
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Mechanical
  • I gave up on the charcoal canister when I worked out how it worked a bit more - I ended up constricting the end with a cable tie, so it can't suck as much air in through, forcing it to pull from the fuel tank instead. This appears to have improved matters.
  • Last fill up was exactly 16,000km recorded in Fuelly - we've averaged 17/100km now over that time.
  • Oil has now been changed to Penrite instead of the Castrol I was using before - costs a bit more, but is generally reckoned to be a better oil
Other
  • Finally got round to getting some new tyres - some take offs came up in the next big city, so a 250km round trip and I then had some 265/70R16s from a brand new 70 series (Dunlop Grandtreks). Still had the line around them and the valve markers. 1518 date stamp on them, so they'd been sat in the shed for a while, but for $600 for 6 I wasn't going to complain. Even better was the lads at the tyre shop said I didn't turn up to my booking ;).
  • Picked up a 180* awning for it, which had the ability to take the canvas that came with our trailer.... so with some extra poles, we now have a decent camping set up.

Because posts are worthless without pictures, here's some photos:

Awning: I wanted to keep it low profile, and worked out if I used some flat bar, I could tap a thread into one piece and bolt it inside the roof rack rail, instead of putting it up above the roof rack:

1) Rapid prototyping: Take it to Bunnings and go through the big stuff section, park it up and go find some shelf brackets for proof of concept - will it work?
IMG_20200202_140129341.jpg

Yep, that has merit - but they're not the right shape, nor heavy duty enough.

2) Head to the local metal shop and get some 6mm flat bar bent up instead:
IMG_20200203_173834646.jpg

Drill a few holes, tap a few threads and it was good to go

3) Fitted up:
IMG_20200204_194813771.jpg

Next time I'd use slightly thinner flat bar, and then I could get it way from the bend a bit more; there's also a 2nd bolt on the other side of the roof gutter foot to hold it all in, so it can't slid out. Everything is M8 8.8 bolts, so not going anywhere in a hurry!

And set up:
IMG_20200204_195623483_li.jpg

As you can see, opened up it lines up with the tailgate giving us a decent bit of space under cover.

And with the other bit of canvas on it, it gives a good amount of coverage:
IMG_20200628_095223854.jpg


Also still just getting out and about as things open up post-bushfire here:
IMG_20200516_105403636.jpg

This is on the edge of the Gondawna Rainforest area, and is rainforest.... therefore not somewhere that should burn! This picture was taken at 11am, and shows how the cloud hangs around this area (we went along here when @Scott visited); a bit later on and it was nice and clear again

IMG_20200516_122333130_LI.jpg

(and the car is even dustier than that now, after the last week where's it done a couple of big trips out on dirt)

Next project:
The next project is working out how to carry the mountain bikes off the back; whilst they fit in the car, if we have camping gear (or fridge and battery) + dog, we don't have much space for the bikes, so I'd been looking at hitch mounted racks that tilt down out the way. However, the dog isn't very good at jumping in from the side (mainly because she commits a bit much and nearly goes off the other side....) so it was decided a swing away one would work better.

But they don't really exist; what's looking like the go is to build one that swings away on a tyre carrier stub or similar - like this one on the spare tyre on the Patrol:
14291871_10157558116670604_8746324369804804541_n.jpg


That then leaves the door area completely clear:
14311459_10157558116535604_2848061160037004959_o.jpg


But I'd want it to swing off the bumper, and I'll leave my spare under the car, so I'm now on the hunt for a rear bar to do this with.... to which a mate mentioned that there is still a 100 series rear bar sitting at his old work that needs a home...
WP_20181128_09_15_00_Pro.jpg

I'd pull the swing arms off, and sort out one that would swing across from the passenger side to the drivers side and then latch on that side, which means I could mount the bikes centrally on the car.

Now the problem here is that it's for a 100 or 105 series, and I've not worked out what the differences are yet - does anyone know? @Julian T did I read that you had a similar TJM bar mounted to an 80?
 
Yes, I have a 100 series TJM rear bumper mounted on my 80 series, chassis is slightly narrower at the rear and requires spacers or modification to secure the two chassis mountings, it mounts at the tow hook mounting, then the end sides of the chassis and has two brackets to the chassis behind the wheels.
 
Yes, I have a 100 series TJM rear bumper mounted on my 80 series, chassis is slightly narrower at the rear and requires spacers or modification to secure the two chassis mountings, it mounts at the tow hook mounting, then the end sides of the chassis and has two brackets to the chassis behind the wheels.
Thanks Julian - I did do a bit of poking through Dr Google and did come across yours - do you have any pictures of the fitting etc? I've found one OK picture of it, looking from slight above down onto it.
 
I can get you some pictures, give me a day or two as I will have to go "visit" her where she is in storage.
 
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