ModelMakerMan
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- Jun 25, 2011
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My powersteering pump had a slight leak and as Ive heard horror stories about gear driven powersteering pumps seizing and damaging the engine I though I should get it re-built and post up my experience for others that might need to do this in the future (Ben 
):
This is a messy messy messy task! Did I mention that its messy? You WILL get powersteering fluid/ATF everywhere so make sure you have plenty of rags, buckets, bowls etc. to hand and the floor under the truck well covered.
I didnt take any pics of removing the pump as I wasnt taking my camera anywhere near car while it was gushing ATF everywhere but the pump is on the passenger side in front of the starter motor. You need to have access underneath, through the engine bay and through the rubber flap in the passenger wheel arch. I didnt remove the wheel as I had enough room due to my suspension lift but you may find it easier to remove the wheel.
Removing the pump:
1. Empty the Powersteering fluid reservoir. I pulled the hose off the bottom and tried to catch the fluid in a jar.
2. Remove the 22mm bolt holding the banjo connector on the connection to the steering box on top of the pump. I did this through the engine bay with a very long socket extention. It will be very tight. If possible get a 24mm spanner on the nut below the connector but I couldnt find the room to do this and it just undoes both which is fine as you need to undo the nut later anyway.
3. Remove the 2x12mm bolts holding the feed pipe from the reservoir on the side of the pump (easiest access through the wheel arch). The union will be a little stiff to remove due to the o-ring, just keep wiggling and pulling till its free.
4. Remove the 2x14m nuts holding the pump in place. One is easy to see/access from underneath the other you get at through the wheel arch.
5. Remove the pump. I found it easiest through the wheel arch. Takes a slight tug to disengage the gear.
Ta da! One pump:
Official Toyota Re-build kit from Roughtrax:
This diagram from the Roughtrax website is very useful:
http://www.roughtrax4x4.com/media.php?file=2275
Remove the snap ring and seal on the gear end of the pump. Sorry bad picture, snap ring is in the grove below the gear where the big notch is.
Turn the pump over and remove the snap ring on the rear housing plate. This was a PITA, I found I had to push the central rear housing plate in whilst levering one end of the clip with a small flat blade screwdriver. Took several attempts and a lot of swearing.
Remove the rear housing plate:
Remove the spring/wave washer:
Remove the side rear plate:
Now we can see the pump rotor and vanes inside its cam ring. NOTE: Be careful at this point not to turn the pump upsidedown as all the vanes will fall out of the rotor!
Remove the pins. NOTE: Remember which pin goes where in the cam ring.
Remove the cam ring. Easiest way I found was to partially re-insert the pins and use them as a lever.
As you can see the rotor vanes are now loose and will slide out of the rotor very easily. Ideally you want to keep all the rotor vanes in the rotor so they stay in the correct place the right way round and dont get lost.
Remove the rotor and vanes. I found the best was was to bend the old snap ring off the gear side of the pump so its a tighter fit round the rotor and slip it over the rotor so it holds most of the vanes in place. Stiction from the fluid on the rotor and vanes will make it very difficult to remove the rotor with the vanes in place but you can help release the stiction by gently turning the rotor as you lift it. Have a small piece of card, metal, plastic ready to place the rotor on as the vanes will try to drop out the back.
Using a vice an a soft drift (I used Aluminium bar and a copper mallet) knock the gear, shaft and bearing out:
You can now see the seal which need to be replaced:
With the gear side of the pump up use a drift to knock the side front plate out. Work evenly round inside on the plate so it comes out flat.
Carefully clap the pump in a vice gear side down and use a small drift the knock the seal out:
Unscrew the pressure union port:
Remove the flow control valve and spring:
I hope youve been laying all the parts out in order!
Lay out the new parts from the re-build kit in the correct places ensuring you get the o-rings for the front and rear side plates correct to the diagram in the kit (above) then replace all the o-rings. NOTE: Unless you are replacing the bearing DO NOT replace the snap ring on the shaft. As long as the bearing and snap ring are fine leave well alone, its more hassle than it worth!
Took me a while to work out that this one goes on the feed union from the reservoir which is still on the car:
Install the new seal on the gear side. Using a socket slightly smaller in diameter than the seal knock it in with a copper/plastic mallet.
Sorry forgot to take a pic.
Flip the pump over and insert the longer of the 2 pins (you remember which way round it went right?
):
Apply ATF to both o-rings and fit the side front plate and knock it in using a large socket and a mallet. It will take quite a bit of force to compress both o-rings:
Apply ATF to the shaft then using your copper/plastic mallet drive the shaft bearing and gear back in. Fit the new snap ring:
Insert the short pin and the cam ring:
Using the same snap ring technique insert the rotor and vanes. Be careful not to drop any of the vanes:
Apply ATF to the o-ring and drive the side rear plate in ensuring it will locate with the pins correctly:
Fit the wave washer/spring:
Apply ATF to the o-ring and fit the rear housing plate and the new snap ring:
Insert the spring and flow control valve and fit the pressure union port and tighten to 700 kg-cm (51 ft-lb, 69 Nm):
Done!
Now make it look pretty
Fitting is reverse of removal. Remember to re-fit the seal. It was a little fiddly getting the gears to mesh, I found I had to get the pump on the 2 studs and slowly rotate the gear while pushing and wiggling the pump until it meshed.
Torque settings for the pump nuts is 450 kg-cm (33 ft-lb, 44 Nm) and for the feed union is 80 kg-cm (69 ft-lb, 7.8 Nm) (dont forget to fit the new o-ring).
Bleed the system:
1. Remove the upper return pipe from the reservoir and block it off with a bung.
2. Fill the reservoir to the top with Powersteering fluid/ATF (Dextron II)
3. Place return pipe in a jar/clear container
4. Start engine and immediately turn off after 1sec
5. Check jar for aerated fluid and ensure the reservoir is not empty
6. Repeat steps 2-5 a few times until the fluid is less aerated.
7. Remove bung and replace return pipe to the reservoir
8. Ensure reservoir is topped up
9. Turn the steering to full lock and hold for 3 secs. Do this several time in both directions checking for aeration and/or level drop in the reservoir. Top up as necessary.
Hope this helps
):This is a messy messy messy task! Did I mention that its messy? You WILL get powersteering fluid/ATF everywhere so make sure you have plenty of rags, buckets, bowls etc. to hand and the floor under the truck well covered.
I didnt take any pics of removing the pump as I wasnt taking my camera anywhere near car while it was gushing ATF everywhere but the pump is on the passenger side in front of the starter motor. You need to have access underneath, through the engine bay and through the rubber flap in the passenger wheel arch. I didnt remove the wheel as I had enough room due to my suspension lift but you may find it easier to remove the wheel.
Removing the pump:
1. Empty the Powersteering fluid reservoir. I pulled the hose off the bottom and tried to catch the fluid in a jar.
2. Remove the 22mm bolt holding the banjo connector on the connection to the steering box on top of the pump. I did this through the engine bay with a very long socket extention. It will be very tight. If possible get a 24mm spanner on the nut below the connector but I couldnt find the room to do this and it just undoes both which is fine as you need to undo the nut later anyway.
3. Remove the 2x12mm bolts holding the feed pipe from the reservoir on the side of the pump (easiest access through the wheel arch). The union will be a little stiff to remove due to the o-ring, just keep wiggling and pulling till its free.
4. Remove the 2x14m nuts holding the pump in place. One is easy to see/access from underneath the other you get at through the wheel arch.
5. Remove the pump. I found it easiest through the wheel arch. Takes a slight tug to disengage the gear.
Ta da! One pump:
Official Toyota Re-build kit from Roughtrax:
This diagram from the Roughtrax website is very useful:
http://www.roughtrax4x4.com/media.php?file=2275
Remove the snap ring and seal on the gear end of the pump. Sorry bad picture, snap ring is in the grove below the gear where the big notch is.
Turn the pump over and remove the snap ring on the rear housing plate. This was a PITA, I found I had to push the central rear housing plate in whilst levering one end of the clip with a small flat blade screwdriver. Took several attempts and a lot of swearing.
Remove the rear housing plate:
Remove the spring/wave washer:
Remove the side rear plate:
Now we can see the pump rotor and vanes inside its cam ring. NOTE: Be careful at this point not to turn the pump upsidedown as all the vanes will fall out of the rotor!
Remove the pins. NOTE: Remember which pin goes where in the cam ring.
Remove the cam ring. Easiest way I found was to partially re-insert the pins and use them as a lever.
As you can see the rotor vanes are now loose and will slide out of the rotor very easily. Ideally you want to keep all the rotor vanes in the rotor so they stay in the correct place the right way round and dont get lost.
Remove the rotor and vanes. I found the best was was to bend the old snap ring off the gear side of the pump so its a tighter fit round the rotor and slip it over the rotor so it holds most of the vanes in place. Stiction from the fluid on the rotor and vanes will make it very difficult to remove the rotor with the vanes in place but you can help release the stiction by gently turning the rotor as you lift it. Have a small piece of card, metal, plastic ready to place the rotor on as the vanes will try to drop out the back.
Using a vice an a soft drift (I used Aluminium bar and a copper mallet) knock the gear, shaft and bearing out:
You can now see the seal which need to be replaced:
With the gear side of the pump up use a drift to knock the side front plate out. Work evenly round inside on the plate so it comes out flat.
Carefully clap the pump in a vice gear side down and use a small drift the knock the seal out:
Unscrew the pressure union port:
Remove the flow control valve and spring:
I hope youve been laying all the parts out in order!
Lay out the new parts from the re-build kit in the correct places ensuring you get the o-rings for the front and rear side plates correct to the diagram in the kit (above) then replace all the o-rings. NOTE: Unless you are replacing the bearing DO NOT replace the snap ring on the shaft. As long as the bearing and snap ring are fine leave well alone, its more hassle than it worth!Took me a while to work out that this one goes on the feed union from the reservoir which is still on the car:
Install the new seal on the gear side. Using a socket slightly smaller in diameter than the seal knock it in with a copper/plastic mallet.
Sorry forgot to take a pic.
Flip the pump over and insert the longer of the 2 pins (you remember which way round it went right?
):Apply ATF to both o-rings and fit the side front plate and knock it in using a large socket and a mallet. It will take quite a bit of force to compress both o-rings:
Apply ATF to the shaft then using your copper/plastic mallet drive the shaft bearing and gear back in. Fit the new snap ring:
Insert the short pin and the cam ring:
Using the same snap ring technique insert the rotor and vanes. Be careful not to drop any of the vanes:
Apply ATF to the o-ring and drive the side rear plate in ensuring it will locate with the pins correctly:
Fit the wave washer/spring:
Apply ATF to the o-ring and fit the rear housing plate and the new snap ring:
Insert the spring and flow control valve and fit the pressure union port and tighten to 700 kg-cm (51 ft-lb, 69 Nm):
Done!
Now make it look pretty
Fitting is reverse of removal. Remember to re-fit the seal. It was a little fiddly getting the gears to mesh, I found I had to get the pump on the 2 studs and slowly rotate the gear while pushing and wiggling the pump until it meshed.
Torque settings for the pump nuts is 450 kg-cm (33 ft-lb, 44 Nm) and for the feed union is 80 kg-cm (69 ft-lb, 7.8 Nm) (dont forget to fit the new o-ring).
Bleed the system:
1. Remove the upper return pipe from the reservoir and block it off with a bung.
2. Fill the reservoir to the top with Powersteering fluid/ATF (Dextron II)
3. Place return pipe in a jar/clear container
4. Start engine and immediately turn off after 1sec
5. Check jar for aerated fluid and ensure the reservoir is not empty
6. Repeat steps 2-5 a few times until the fluid is less aerated.
7. Remove bung and replace return pipe to the reservoir
8. Ensure reservoir is topped up
9. Turn the steering to full lock and hold for 3 secs. Do this several time in both directions checking for aeration and/or level drop in the reservoir. Top up as necessary.
Hope this helps
