2001 GXL 100 A442F transmission fliud

[Neal Guthrie]

HI Guys,
Ive tried searching but cant seem to find the right info, i have an A442F Auto in my 100 and i would like to know what is the best ATF for the job?
Would DEXRON 2 be ok or should i use the Agent spec ws?
i plan on doing a Gbox strainer swap and a drain and refill this weekend...

 

[t1pper]

Hi,
Sorry the reply is a bit late, so maybe this info is wasted.

On the auto trans dipstick of my 1999 100 it actually says Dextron 2, so I will assume that will be ok, there maybe higher spec oils for the job but this should be fine.

Can I ask why you intend to swap the oil and stainer does it look dirty or do you have problems??

What did you find, was it sludged up?

My Gear box oil is very clean and I don't have any problems additionally the car had a good service history before my ownership, however it has covered 155K miles and is used for heavy towing should I cover this as part of my next service??

 

[uHu]

HI Guys,
Ive tried searching but cant seem to find the right info, i have an A442F Auto in my 100 and i would like to know what is the best ATF for the job?
Would DEXRON 2 be ok or should i use the Agent spec ws?
i plan on doing a Gbox strainer swap and a drain and refill this weekend...

That would be a 4-sp box on a HDJ100, right?
I recommend getting a syntetic Dexron-III equivalent. This box doesn't shift very smoothly, but the synt helps to that end. It has greater effect in cold climates, but, as I remember from my sub-tropics days, the 4-sp wasn't that comfy there either.

An agent that specs WS for the 442 can't be trusted, that's for the 750-box on the 8/2003 +.

 

[Neal Guthrie]

Great info guys, i will just use the Dex 2 that i have. uHu- i was also thinking that the WS spec is for the 750.
when you say the A442f os not that smooth, in which way do you mean? i do get jerking particularly when i pull off from stand still, get to about 40km/h and back off on the throttle i fell a sharp jerk/thud as the box changes to higher gear and starts cruising- also at about 60km/h +- if i floor it there is like a double jerk, as if its change two gears and then pulls off, but that only happens now and then. also when i the box is cold, there is definitely a lack of power un till the box heats up.

 

[uHu]

Nothing wrong with the 442, it's a strong and good box. Just not as comfy as the 750, or as smooth and easy to communicate with as an average car.

It will improve with a quality synt fluid.

 

[Neal Guthrie]

So reviving this thread....
i did the G box oils and strainer- it was better... a year and a bit later i had the Injection pump and injectors completely overhauled... $$$ but WOW what i difference... my cruiser feels alive and goes really well top end and holds speed on any hill.... BUT there is a problem.....

when i pull off there is still a lack of power, but only sometimes.... almost like 1st is not getting engaged. but if i shift to L then it pulls strong and i shift to 2nd then D. then it goes well, very well... it really is only on steep inclines and is worse when loaded... it also does it when i shift to 2nd from D on pull off.. i can feel it gearing down and pulling strong... its almost like the Torque C is slipping but the revs dont rise abnormally at all... at 120km/h im sitting at 2600rpm with 265/75/16 tires. when i accelerate it just goes and revs pick up accordingly..!!
could this be a solenoid issue? or actual gear slipping clutch or what ever is in there? doe the L setting and 1st in 2nd and D share the same gears/clutch etc? cause why is one pulling strong and the other is weak? and the hotter the box gets the worse it is... oils have been check and all is fine there....?

Any ideas?

regards.

 

[BobMurphy]

When you engage 'L' you lock the box in the lowest gear - i.e. the drive isn't via the torque converter fluid.

In '2' it will shift up from 1st into 2nd and then lock, again there will be no apparent slipping in 2nd.

In 'D' with 'O/D Off' it will change up through 1st and 2nd then lock in 3rd.

When locked, it allows the revs to build above the normal change point, just like having a manual box and clutch where you control the change point.

I use 'O/D Off' when towing horses up steep hills, it allows me to get the revs up to about 2,300 which I feel is better for all concerned!

Bob.

 

[Neal Guthrie]

Thanks Bob,
so if the box is locking up in L- the TC is being bypassed? so if it is weak in D on pull off, is this indicative of a tired Torque Converter? not a slipping clutch pack in the Gbox itself?

 

[BobMurphy]

So, if it is weak in D on pull off, is this indicative of a tired Torque Converter? not a slipping clutch pack in the Gbox itself?

Hopefully someone who understands Auto Boxes will be along to answer this - I'm way out of my comfort zone, never having had an Auto box apart (give me spur gears any time, I can understand them ).

I'm interested in the answer as well as I have always thought that my '100 Auto' is very sluggish, but it is the only one I've driven so don't have anything to compare it to.

Bob.

 

[Neal Guthrie]

Mine was sluggish (diesel) had the pump and injectors overhauled and my cruiser has serious power now. open road it just pulls on and on. Once it kicks into 2nd it goes very well!! its just that pull of from stand still...

i would love if someone could explain it.... im close to having the TC overhauled too...

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

I don't have any experience of the 442 in a 100 but do have some experience of them in an 80 and probably not much changed. When the auto box selector is in the L position the TC is not locked, so you're getting normal torque converter behavior. Unless you have a manual override the TC will only lock in 3rd & 4th/OD. iirc what changes when you select L on the auto box gear selector is that it forces selection of 1st gear where D selects the gear the ECU thinks is best which could be 2nd. A similar thing happens with the 2 position i.e. it could be holding onto 3rd in D but you move the stick to 2 and it forces a change. Sometimes a sluggish box is because the TPS isn't adjusted correctly, so maybe the ECU thinks you're taking it easy on the throttle when really you're flooring it. As well as giving sluggish performance by selecting the wrong gear it can give poor gear changes and excess wear on the clutches because the TPS is also an input for the line pressure used for clamping the clutches. Too much pressure when you're taking it easy gives a harsh change. Not enough pressure e.g. when booting it gives a very soft gear change with lots of clutch slipping.

If power output is down that will also fool the ECU because it is programmed for the torque curve of the engine with standard power output so it may expect to have a bit more torque and be able to hang on to a higher gear for a given throttle position so it holds onto that gear but the driver is expecting a down shift because the engine is struggling and feels even more sluggish.

 

[Neal Guthrie]

Jon, what you described is what is happening. the sluggish start is only when facing uphill. Other than that it goes well. and sometimes even uphill it goes well. Just when its hot it plays up.
i Guess its worth checking the TPS before i remove the T converter.... now does anyone one know where the TPS is on a right hand drive 1HD-Fte?

 

[BobMurphy]

I think it is mounted on the throttle pedal, in the driver's footwell (there is something there that looks like a TPS ).

So, the box doesn't lock in 'L' or '2', interesting. I was thinking that if the power braking system failed (again) I could shove it into '2' and get some engine braking, unfortunately it appears that isn't an option ).

Bob.

 

[Neal Guthrie]

No, i have full function in L, 2nd and D... just in D there is a lackof power in pull off... im leaning toward solenoid... other wise the symptoms would be across all gear selections?