Air Con Leak

[DaveN]

About 120psi will do you, but it must be absolutely dry otherwise it will contaminate the drier. You can use argon or nitrogen also. Just not oxygen or acetylene!! Or you can buy one of those cheapy a/c refill kits, just make sure it doesn't contain any magic sealants/lubricant booster/snake oils.

Yes, the O ring size is crucial, as it's not under pressure from the joint like it would be on something that's bolted down, like the acsd cover plate. It also holds the joint centered. Too thin and it won't reach across between the male and female part, and even if it's the correct thickness but slightly small id, then it will stretch to be too thin also. If you see what I mean.

If oil/dye comes out, then so does gas, just not necessarily the other way round. It's fairly safe to say that the evap is ok, as they're an extremely rare failure on toyotas.

 

[frank rabbets]

Thanks Dave

I stripped all my o rings out when the aircon went down originally and took them as patterns along with my micrometer. The specialists were a bit dissmissive re my concerns over the 4 rings that were thinner than the originals. They slid into the female joints rather than popped in. I'll get 4 Toyota ones, check them and fit them, and then get a free regass.

I'm most obliged for your comments. I think things will now be OK and I'll update regularly. If it goes down again I''ll use my compressed air and get to the bottom of it.

Thanks again.
Frank

 

[frank rabbets]

Just a thank you for everyones support. I've had the 4 suspect o rings changed and it was admitted that they were incorrectly supplied. The 2nd replacement ones are twice the wall thickness as the 1st replacement ones so I'm hoping this is a permanent fix.

The good news is that the evaporator is easy to get out if needed.

Take off glovebox.
Take off an ecu thats screwed onto the evaporator box.
Take off horizontal metal supporting strip. Mirror required to see screw on RHS.
Unplug the associated wiring..with a bit of guesswork.
Locate the fixing nuts and screws around the edge of the evaporator cotainer box and take them out. Difficult to see them all due to wiring in the way.
Take off the pipes in the egine bay.
Undo the two holding bolts in the same area.
Push off the drain tube.

No need to remove the heater motor or heater.
It should come out now without much trouble and can be taken apart in 5 mins on the bench. Cut through the foam seal at the joints as it is glued on after assembly and will not peel off.

Well that's roughly it. Takes about half to one hour depending on how quickly the screws are found.

Frank