Blue moon at Hlaro - the magic of Gonarezhou – Place of the Elephants - 08-2015

[John.Thome.2BWild]

Many of you are familiar with this region.
And Ken you will remember Johan from our previous trips.

Enjoy!

Our second trip to Gonarezhou (GRZ), Zimbabwe – once in a blue moon [which we experienced], only strengthened our resolve to visit again at the earliest opportunity. This amazing pristine wilderness National Park has so much to offer.


This is primarily a progressive photographic trip report.


Participants were:
Rob and Di Wybrow
Johan and Elmarie Kriel – who journeyed all the way from Windhoek for this trip - covering some 6 200 km !!!
Viv and myself.


Regretably Retief van der Reyden had to withdraw due to work demands.


Enjoy, and post questions at will.


Blue moon at Hlaro – presently our favourite camp in all Africa.

Our camp at Hlaro, wild and unfenced, visited continuously by browsing, friendly and relaxed ellies, adjacent to the Chilojo cliffs.

Our route was via the Pafuri border post, across the Limpopo and the Nuanetsi Rivers up the Moz/Zim border to Chiqualaquala (Sango), into Zim and the Mabalauta Camp in GRZ.






18 days in all.


Crested Guinea Fowl at Punda Maria

Dagga boy in Kruger

Crossing the Limpopo. With a little help from Johan as my low range didn't engage properly. Shown here is Johan leading and Rob crossing.

Rob crosses

The beautiful colonial architecture of the old railway station at Chiqualaquala

The road to Mabaluata Camp in the southern section

And our camp at Mabaluata. Right on the Mwenezi River [Nuanetsi?]. Lions roaring at night, plenty of crocs - a lovely camp with nice donkey ablutions and pleasant staff.

The mesmerising pools of Samalema Gorge near Mablauta

Then across the old 'restriced central zone' - a lovely drive - to the northern section: the Chilojo Cliffs, Save-Runde River confluence and Chilo Lodge.

Lunch pit stop at Lion Camp in the central reserve. A completely wild wilderness camp. Certainly to be re-visited.

Our view over the Runde River from Hlaro Camp, with the majestic Chilojo Cliffs in attendance - home at last!

Thr view of the Runde River from atop the Chiliojo Cliffs. How awesome is that. Great shot Johan.

 

[John.Thome.2BWild]

Part 2

Rob and Di baking bread at Hlaro.
We had three nights at Hlaro. So plenty of time to explore the Cholojo Cliffs and surrounds and enjoy seeing the Vereaux's Eagle soaring at our eye level.

Over lunch this breeding herd crossed the Runde gracefully at the Bopomela Causeway. Our low ratio 4WD again didn't engage properly, leading to a protracted 90 minute extraction here with the able assistance of Rob.

Nights camping at Hlaro are undescribable. One 'sleeps' with one ear open. Lion roaring nearby for most of the night [never seen], the lovely haunting sound of Jackal, and Hippo exchanging jokes a little way upstream. But best of all was a really huge Ellie [with a footprint of some 450 mm!!!] browsing at the tree behind our ground tent for an hour or so!!! What a pleasure to also see Sable in the Chinguli aree nearby. Chinguli is a beautiful camp too - right on the river, with pools. Perhaps Johan has some photos.

Chinguli Camp - thanks Johan. After Hlaro probably the best camp in Gonarezhou. Clean and tidy, full ablutions with hot water, fire wood, good fishing in the pools - but not exclusive.

Solar pumper water from the river

The river road on the northern side of the Runde takes us to the confluence of the Runde and Save Rivers. It is quite a technical and tedious drive, and thus great fun. Only tackle this with 4WD or bakkie with high clearance. En route we encounter more awesome Boababs - the Ellies however do them great damage. Also along the way a gropu of Cape Vultures feeding on some remains, Eland [3 small herds], Kudu, forests of date pamls and very dense 'fan palms'.

Spoonbills paddle the mud at Tembwahara Pan near our camp at Gayiseni.

In their travels near the Chitovo area north of the Chilijo Cliffs, Johan and Rob were delayed for 90 minutes by a large herd of Ellies. Look at the sixe of this bloke. And look at those tusks!

Lovely Kudu bulls abound

Chitove Camp - beautiful hey!

Next up is the very exciting Save River crossing - and our visit to Chilo Lodge, where Viv was to do a 'site inspection' for future clients.

 

[John.Thome.2BWild]

Part 3
Crossing the Save River (pronounced Savé)

The beautiful Chilo Lodge overlooking the Save River.

Runde Gorge near Chipinda Pools, another great campsite for the future.

Back in Kruger we saw this huge tusker

And an ambidexterous Buffalo

 

[John.Thome.2BWild]

Some images don't show. :scratch: why is that?

 

[Olazz]

Thanks for sharing John. Still one of the most unspoilt places in southern Africa.

Going back to Gonarezhou and will be at Chilo lodge in December.

Having been "locked up" at Mphoengs/Matsiloje border last year in December... " said we had a fake entry visas"... cost $250 to buy our way out eventually.. I'm keen to know what the road block/corruption situation is like at present?

Di you have much trouble?

Lazz

 

[John.Thome.2BWild]

Hi Lazz, great that you'll be at Chilo in December. Where are you based.?
Water will probably be up by then.

We had no border hassles via Pafuri, other than being a bit slow and tedious, even though we were the only customers on the way in and out!
That's four border posts in all: SA to Moz; then Moz to Zim
By far the most tedious were the Zim officials - but pleasant and friendly. And in general it's the police who give the hassles at the last gate in each case, not customs or immigration.
In particular the Moz police, who will always ask for "some cold drink" or "have you got beer." They "confiscated" a case of beer from one of our party, and also extracted $100 from him.

I usually place 2 beers strategically in the back/boot - so they can take them or leave them, I don't offer or give. Invariably they take them.

Otherwise no issues, keep a friendly face and chat. I'm very surprised you had the n-th degree with the visa thing...

 

[Olazz]

JT, I'm based in the UK, but my truck is in Cape town.

Had real hanna hanna at the border. That border is a very small out of the way post, so has zero non-local traffic. We arrived late on a Friday eve, (shabeen weekend looming ) so immigration and 7 police seized on the "Mzungu's" hoping for their weekend cash injection. It's a long story and we were locked up for 48 hours pending court hearing on the Monday morning. Had to negotiate with each of the 8 individuals separately, the biggest problem was SWAMBO who still doesn't get African mentality and the way to deal with those situations and TIA!

Thanks for the heads up