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Bush replacment
- Thread starter warrenpfo
- Start date
I am no expert but that sounds like a major job Warren! Best get 4 cans of penetrant spray for that.Do you have a press or bench vice to press them in? You could do it when/if you do your torsion bars as you will need to remove the lower wishbone to do those bushes which are connected to the bars!I would do the lower ball joints as well while the wishbones were off as they are only £30 for a pair and you really don't wanna do all that again ! 
warrenpfo
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Its not a job that I have to do all at once but rather as I go along so I can replace the bushes. Its one of those things that if you have the bushes you will replace them but if you have to order them and then wait for them to arrive my mind says ill do it next time im in the area.
Its preventative rather than must do now work.
Its preventative rather than must do now work.
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ignat
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I dont think thats such a bad price compared to what you would pay for original Toyota bushes.
Regardless, I'd recommend you get the SuperPro bushes in the UK before returning to SA.
I tried getting some bushes from the official suppliers here, which were coming direct from AUS and was quoted over £500 for steering rack and control arm bushes only. So I ended up ordering from Roughtrax in the UK. Strange they are sent from AUS to the UK then to SA and its cheaper than direct from AUS to SA
Regardless, I'd recommend you get the SuperPro bushes in the UK before returning to SA.
I tried getting some bushes from the official suppliers here, which were coming direct from AUS and was quoted over £500 for steering rack and control arm bushes only. So I ended up ordering from Roughtrax in the UK. Strange they are sent from AUS to the UK then to SA and its cheaper than direct from AUS to SA
ignat
Well-Known Member
The £25 set and the £155 control arm set.
Actually just checking the email correspondence and it was more than £500 they wanted - it was R16000 !!
I said to them, you're having a laugh, but they couldn't do it for any less.
So, whatever you do Warren, get them in the UK before you emigrate!!
Actually just checking the email correspondence and it was more than £500 they wanted - it was R16000 !!
I said to them, you're having a laugh, but they couldn't do it for any less.So, whatever you do Warren, get them in the UK before you emigrate!!
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Some food for thought when considering choice of bushings:
Polyurethane (poly) is normally firmer than rubber, and can give better control of the movement in some of the places we use them. It can also last longer than rubber.
Poly can squeak if not lubricated. Rubber can squeak if lubricated. (yes, this is true). The rubber bushings will stick to the surfaces and the material itself will give. I.e. there is no movement/friction between the rubber and the steel, only within the rubber bushing itself. Poly can not do this, and there will be movement/friction between steel and bushing, and therefore squeaking if not lubricated. Ceramic grease is good - doesn't wash off easily. Most poly bushings come with a small sachet of lubricant. If rubber is lubed, they will not stick to the steel, and start squeaking after a short time.
Another issue is that the bushings are there to make a flexible connection between two parts, some times in order to save other parts, by giving them less shock-load e.g. If the construction is designed for rubber bushings, it might not always be a good idea to replace them with something with less "give".
A sports-car mechanic/driver I knew (Monte Carlo veteran - RIP) said it very clear: He would normally never use poly bushings, because there would be something else giving in if the rubber didn't. And that's from someone who wanted maximum control!
I'm not warning against poly, just trying to highlight some of the considerations we can do.
Think of a sway bar: For the frame mounts it doesn't really matter how much they give as the bar itself gives a lot anyhow. But for the ends, there is a considerable angular movement, and the bolts will brake if the bushings are too hard or too thin. The only advantage of poly on the sway bar would be the durability of the bushings, as there is no advantage of restricting the flexing.
Hope I'm not littering the thread - The thread heading covers the contents....
Polyurethane (poly) is normally firmer than rubber, and can give better control of the movement in some of the places we use them. It can also last longer than rubber.
Poly can squeak if not lubricated. Rubber can squeak if lubricated. (yes, this is true). The rubber bushings will stick to the surfaces and the material itself will give. I.e. there is no movement/friction between the rubber and the steel, only within the rubber bushing itself. Poly can not do this, and there will be movement/friction between steel and bushing, and therefore squeaking if not lubricated. Ceramic grease is good - doesn't wash off easily. Most poly bushings come with a small sachet of lubricant. If rubber is lubed, they will not stick to the steel, and start squeaking after a short time.
Another issue is that the bushings are there to make a flexible connection between two parts, some times in order to save other parts, by giving them less shock-load e.g. If the construction is designed for rubber bushings, it might not always be a good idea to replace them with something with less "give".
A sports-car mechanic/driver I knew (Monte Carlo veteran - RIP) said it very clear: He would normally never use poly bushings, because there would be something else giving in if the rubber didn't. And that's from someone who wanted maximum control!
I'm not warning against poly, just trying to highlight some of the considerations we can do.
Think of a sway bar: For the frame mounts it doesn't really matter how much they give as the bar itself gives a lot anyhow. But for the ends, there is a considerable angular movement, and the bolts will brake if the bushings are too hard or too thin. The only advantage of poly on the sway bar would be the durability of the bushings, as there is no advantage of restricting the flexing.
Hope I'm not littering the thread - The thread heading covers the contents....
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Sounds like a good way to wear out the metal bush holes when sand gets in. Then nothing will fit. I've used them on an Ultima but that had very little suspension travel. With an LC on rough terrain something is bound to wear. The bush holes are not designed to take any friction. And when MOT time arrives ?
Frank
Frank
Julian Voelcker
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warrenpfo said:
Do you have a list of what is in the kit?
The average SuperPro kit only does the main bushes, you then have to add on all the anti-roll bar, steering, etc bushes.
Toyota bushes are generally very resillient so I would only be inclined to change them as a last resort.
You could get a lot of other things done for that £500 like a performance chip
warrenpfo
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Sorry to bring this back to life but do I Lube my shock mounting bushes or not on the OME kit. No instructions on the box so was going to put some rubber grease on them but just thought I would ask? I done want to have to do this job twice. They look to be poly bushes/spacers between metal plates.
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Why all this polybush popularity, Are they fashionable or something. They are a no/no for vehicles with large suspension movements as they can wear the holes they go in especialy if hard. Then you need new suspension parts. Not good for high mileages either. Neither can I see any advantage whatsoever of using them on a Landcruiser.
Frank
Frank
warrenpfo
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Frank the thread is old but your comments are still valid. I don’t want to replace bushes on my current 100 but rather the OME suspension that I will fit this weekend has polly spacers sandwiched between metal discs and I just wanted to know if its worth putting a swear of red rubber grease on them?
He doesn't, that was on his old truck, he's just talking about shock bush's. I've never lubed a shock bush Warren, doesn't mean it shouldn't be done though ... Lack of instruction on the subject suggests OME don't think they should be lubed either though.
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Congrats on your new purchase Warren. Bet you can't get to sleep for smiling!
You can smear rubber or poly' shock washers whilst fitting but this would serve no lubrication purposes but might stop rust creeping in for a bit. No harm will be done. With my soft rubber bushes I smear these with waxoil to ensure they squeeze up to the correct profile and to stop rust for a bit. Surprisingly the waxoil is very stiff after a few days binding the bush in firmly in place stopping any movemet on the surface which may cause wear.
Frank
You can smear rubber or poly' shock washers whilst fitting but this would serve no lubrication purposes but might stop rust creeping in for a bit. No harm will be done. With my soft rubber bushes I smear these with waxoil to ensure they squeeze up to the correct profile and to stop rust for a bit. Surprisingly the waxoil is very stiff after a few days binding the bush in firmly in place stopping any movemet on the surface which may cause wear.
Frank
