Chassis Rust Removal -- Recommended Tools for Awkward Areas?

[stuzbot]

After spending about an hour scrubbing away at my rear axle with a wire brush yesterday to get rid of surface rust and, while doing so, casting my eye down what seemed like acres more chassis still to do, I'm thinking I'm going to have to break out the power tools to get the job done before the heat death of the universe. I've got a cordless mini angle grinder [which takes my Makita batteries] with the Roloc adaptor, which means I can fit the mini nylon grinding discs on it.

Like this guy is using...

That should be good for most of the easier to reach areas, but I'm wondering about the harder to access parts, like the tops of cross-members, around pipes and cabling, inner parts of axle turrets etc.

I've got a Dremel copy tool too, which could get into those kind of areas. And it has a flexi-shaft attachment, which would be handy. But, the trouble with that is, it only has a 3mm shank. So it's a bit limited as to what kind of attachments it will take. And, being so small, they don't last long either.

I'm humming and hah-ing about whether to move up a rung in the rotary tool ladder by buying an el cheapo die grinder type thing. Those have a 6mm shank, so would allow the use of heavier duty attachments. And I already have a set of burrs and a set of grinding bits here. So that would save on consumables. But I'm a bit concerned the tool itself might be a bit bulky for squeezing into tight spaces.

Something like this:

Alternatively, I'm wondering whether something like a cheapo electric finger file might be more handy for that kind of thing. They look like they'd be pretty good accessibility-wise. But, again, I'm not sure how bulky the actualy body of the tool would be. Or how durable those sandpaper bands they take are?

Something like this:

As I've never used either of those tools, or even seen one in the flesh, I'm not sure how bulky either would be. It's hard to judge from just a photo. Or how heavy or annoyingly loud to be using, given I'll be lying under a motor, holding the tool overhead.

Anyone got any experience of either / or any other suggestions?

Oh. BTW. I don't have a compressor. So air tools are out. Which is a shame, as they tend to be nice and compact. But I do have a 1500W power pack, so corded tools are fine. They tend to be smaller than their cordless equivalents. If cordless is the best option, I have Makita and Kielder batteries. So something compatible with either of them.

Cheers.

 

[chapel303]

I’ve been going through a similar process recently, spraying the odd bit and lano guarding as well. I’ve used a combo of a drill with wire wheel for tighter areas, angle grinder with a variety of attachments an orbital sander and the usual hand wire brushes etc.

Angle grinder is aggressive, worked well on things like the radius arms and some portions of the chassis but if you aren’t careful it rips straight through the surface rust and the paint and next thing you are looking at nice shiny silver. Drill isn’t that powerful and also doesn’t really get into tighter areas, still has a place though.

All my tools are cordless. At times the batteries have been a nuisance, dying fast when sending it and unable to squeeze into tight spaces. Noted you can’t use air, needle scaler was recommended to me by a garage that does classic refurbs and if I could go back and redo all the portions I’ve done already (I don’t have the soul to) I would have tried to source one. All the tools above don’t really get the rust off properly, they just get the top off and you can still feel the imperfections underneath.

 

[Tractionman]

Having been through this myself, it's been a multi combination of tools you mention and more.
Having used a power file on wood at work, I don't think it is up to moving at different angles that you can't see on metal with the appropriate belt and keeping the belt on track.
I think you will forever be tracking it and go through loads of belts.
Die grinder with the metal burrs are good, as are flap wheels on an angle grinder, or smaller rotary ones in a drill.
I found I was constantly chopping and changing electric and hand tools in my arsenal to suit, as I went.
Really there is no definitive answer what you need. Suck it and see.
A possibility I mulled over hiring a compressor and buying the appropriate medium and or a needle gun/scaler.My own wasn't. powerful enough, and I bought the wrong grit.
I just plodded on with what I had, about 3 weeks from start to finish.
Having a deep pocket will help, as you will get a boat load of suggestions.

 

[stuzbot]

Angle grinder is aggressive...

I find those nylon type discs quite good to use on a grinder. They get the rust off, but don't remove too much metal, like the wire cup brushes can

 

[stuzbot]

Having used a power file on wood at work, I don't think it is up to moving at different angles that you can't see on metal with the appropriate belt and keeping the belt on trac

Thanks. That's useful to know.

Another faint possibility I'm considering is one of those Foredom type pendant motors...

I actually had one of those about 4 or 5 years ago and ended up selling it again. But, at this distance in time, I can't quite remember why I got rid of it. There are various versions of these around, ranging from 250W up to 1000W [which should be quite pokey] and, like the die grinders, they have a 6mm chuck. So could use bigger discs/wheels etc than the Dremel-copy I already have.

Hmmm... I think the reason I got rid of the one I had last ttime might have been because they use a foot pedal to control the RPM, which is a bit impractical, when lying under a car.

I do know I used it for *something* on my old VW van, as I remember hooking it onto the wheel arch. But, again, the memory of what exactly, eludes me.

EDIT: @Tractionman When you talk about the power files being impractical to use at awkward angles, I'n looking at the slimline ones where the motor is in the handle, as opposed to bolted on the side. And the end can angle up or down a bit, to get round corners. I wonder would that kind be any more maneouverable?

 

[MGC]

I like to use the poly discs in a small grinder for surfaces but they do wear quite quickly. For corners and tighter areas I use 6mm wire brushes in a die grinder. I think I bought both corded secondhand for under half the price of new. It’s no fun under ramps and axle stands so use a full face visor and overalls

 

[stuzbot]

Well, in the end, I've gone for the cheapo die grinder from the pic in my first post. I suffered Analysis Paralysis for a long while, weighing up that against the cheapo finger sander. Both were similarly priced [around £45]. In the end, I went for the die grinder as I already have a set of 6mm shank burrs and a set of 6mm shank grinding bits for it. Whereas with the sander I'd have had to buy a load of belts. And, just from the reviews on Amazon, they don't appear to last very long when used on metal.

I feel a sense of achievement now, after finally making my mind up.

Does anyone else kid themselves that they've actually made progress on a job they've not actually started on, just by dint of having spent hours researching what tools they might buy to do it with?

...or is that just me?

 

[chapel303]

Well, in the end, I've gone for the cheapo die grinder from the pic in my first post. I suffered Analysis Paralysis for a long while, weighing up that against the cheapo finger sander. Both were similarly priced [around £45]. In the end, I went for the die grinder as I already have a set of 6mm shank burrs and a set of 6mm shank grinding bits for it. Whereas with the sander I'd have had to buy a load of belts. And, just from the reviews on Amazon, they don't appear to last very long when used on metal.

I feel a sense of achievement now, after finally making my mind up.

Does anyone else kid themselves that they've actually made progress on a job they've not actually started on, just by dint of having spent hours researching what tools they might buy to do it with?

...or is that just me?

I like to do this with parts. I buy loads then stare at them for a month hoping they’ll get themselves on the car.

 

[Tractionman]

Agree with Stu and Chapel, I do exactly the same, loads of homework on type/price, then look at it/them in triumph when they arrive.

Die grinder a good tool to use horizontally or vertically within restraints of working area and not so bulky as angle grinder, but it's amazing how many hand and electric/battery tools you can use, along with a never ending supply of consumables for them.

 

[Geoff 28]

The replacement belts for the small sanders don’t last long at all on chassis work so would be a very expensive option! an old wood chisel is good for scraping and getting into tight corners plus a chipping hammer comes in handy for tackling any of the really crusty stuff on the chassis that can be awkward to get at and can take a bit of shifting to get back to the original steel!

 

[Tractionman]

+1 Geoff. They were 2 of my main tools when scale was really bad on the thick metal components. Cleaned it off a treat ready for a light wire brushing.

 

[stuzbot]

... and don't forget an old dental pick. Handy for hoking the crud out of drainage holes and really narrow gaps.

The replacement belts for the small sanders don’t last long at all on chassis work...

Looks like I made the right call then.

 

[Tractionman]

Oñ the smaller stuff, which all have their place (Dremel for instance) the price for the consumeables is eyewatering considering the short time/amount of work they can do, so although a bit more bulkier I would agree the die grinder was your best choice against the finger sander for most areas, especially as you already have a head start with the rotary burrs in stock.

 

[Dave_S]

Has anyone tried using the electric needle guns, or are they too aggressive??

 

[Geoff 28]

I didn’t even know electric needle guns existed! I used an air powered one on my 100 last November and having tried grinders etc over the years they’re definitely the way to go, great on the chassis and no problems using one on the body either.
Ear defenders are a must but definitely not a job for your driveway if you want to stay friends with your neighbours!
Only reason I didn’t mention it before is because Stuzbot hasn’t got access to air.

 

[Tractionman]

I mentioned those earlier and suggested Stu may hire a compressor for the job.
Geoff, that's interesting using them on body or other areas than chassis, I assumed like Dave, they were too aggressive for the thinner metals.
I used one on smooth concrete years ago, and It sure did the buisness roughing that up for rendering.

 

[Geoff 28]

I mentioned those earlier and suggested Stu may hire a compressor for the job.
Geoff, that's interesting using them on body or other areas than chassis, I assumed like Dave, they were too aggressive for the thinner metals.
I used one on smooth concrete years ago, and It sure did the buisness roughing that up for rendering.

Good point Tractionman! I should have made it clearer that needle guns are ok on the floor panels, body crossmembers and the like on the underside but a definite no no on outer body panels!
I can think of better ways to spend a week than getting filthy under a Land Cruiser but I’d certainly use one again!

 

[Tractionman]

Thanks Geoff, I think we got our wires crossed somewhere, I was thinking/including floor areas under the heading 'body', as it is the same metal as upper body, something I would never use on?
As you have done successfully, that's scotched that theory !
Agree, definitely better ways of spending time than under a cruiser getting filthy everyday.
It was hot weather when I did mine, in shorts and t shirt - I came out every day dirtier than a coal miner, and to top it off I had crocs on, and my feet/ankles got sunburned sticking out from under.

 

[Geoff 28]

Thanks Geoff, I think we got our wires crossed somewhere, I was thinking/including floor areas under the heading 'body', as it is the same metal as upper body, something I would never use on?
As you have done successfully, that's scotched that theory !
Agree, definitely better ways of spending time than under a cruiser getting filthy everyday.
It was hot weather when I did mine, in shorts and t shirt - I came out every day dirtier than a coal miner, and to top it off I had crocs on, and my feet/ankles got sunburned sticking out from under.

 

[Geoff 28]

It was November when I did mine so no shorts and t shirt for me, still got rotten though! The sun must have burnt a weird pattern on your feet through the holes in your crocs!!
The underbody on mine wasn’t too bad so no problems at all using the needle gun and it took the surface corrosion off a treat. I knew the rear of the left hand inner sill was suspect so at least hitting it with the gun exposed the full extent of the tin worm before I got the mig out!