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Clicking ignition

Aquanuke

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Mar 10, 2021
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Garage
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scotland
Hi on cold start I have to turn the key maybe 10 to 20 times and get the clicking sound no crank and then finally it turns over and starts. Normally that would be the battery but I dont understand why it finally starts after so many tries.

Ive had both batteries on a charger and the main battery is low around 10.5 volts but the second battery seems fine

How does the dual battery setup work, is the second battery just aux or does it also start the car?

TBH both batteries are 7 years old so will need replacing anyway. But curious what the issue is and how they work in the car.
 
Batteries are wired in parallel. They both are drawn on to start the car. If one is bad it will affect the other as they try to balance out. On a warm day you only need one battery, although you can feel the difference. At this time of year you want them both to be good. Clicking then working sounds odd, assuming terminal connections, and body earth are nice and tight? At 7 years old with one sounding on the way out, and there being a couple of cool months ahead of us, personally I'd have 2 new batteries and then see what happens.
 
Just stating the obvious but your immobiliser light isn't on is it? Even if the immobiliser kicked in I think the engine would start then stop, but not certain?
 
Sounds like starter motor solenoid. A common problem, apparently, and easily repaired using a repair kit from Roughtrax - £60.

I agree your batteries may also need changing but I would think there should be enough current to try and turn the engine, even if slowly.

The click happens as the plunger moves to connect the two heavy copper terminals inside the solenoid, but fails to touch them both due to wear After a number of times, you get lucky and both terminals get contacted and the starter turns.
For my KZJ95R, the fiddly bit is getting the starter out, but the repair is easy.
Search for ‘Timmy the toolman starter’ on YouTube- quite a long video but shows exactly what to do.
 
That 10.5 volt battery is dragging the other down, that too is probably on its last legs.
A good chance the problem will disappear once you've got a decent battery set up.
 
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If one battery is that knackered (10.5) and won't charge up, you'd be better off disconnecting it (sensibly!) and just using the one. Not a perm solution obviously more of a 'get me home'!
 
Thanks for the advise, will update when I get the batteries. I read on another thread they fitted Varta Blue G7 and G8 they seem a reasonable price so will probs order those
 
Worth a call to your local dealer. Batteries are about the only thing I'd buy from mine, but the price and availability is usually good.
 
Update - So batteries died, not been to the car for two days went to the car this morning and remote key did not work.

Bought and fitted two new Varta Blue G7 and G8 batteries.

Interestingly Ive never seen the dash so bright before and its the first time in over a year of ownership I saw the glow plug light lit did not know it had a light lol

Anyway car still would not crank, just get a wee clicking sound when turn the key. def did need the new batteries though

So Im guessing starter is the next thing to check / replace ?

A new copy starter is around £160 and a solenoid kit is £60, would you just get a new motor for the effort to refurb the old one?

I cant drive the car onto my ramps, so only have the jack in the boot, will I get enough clearance on jack with the wheel off to get to the starter motor ? Also what tools do I need.

Cheers
 
Glad your batteries are sorted!

I think you'll be alright with that, as long as it jacks the car up enough to get the wheel off, you should have enough access.

If its the original starter, personally I'd replace the whole thing for the sake of 100 quid, as you dont want to be doing this all over again in 12 months when the rest of it fails do ya.....

Let us know how you get on!

 
Hi - when I replaced the contacts in my starter (KZJ95R Auto), I removed it from the vehicle by lowering it downward but also had to remove the front left wheel and the thin wheel arch flap. I didn’t use ramps - just hydraulic jack to lift and one axle stand, I think. It was a combination of working from the left side wheelarch and from underneath - plenty of room.
I remember it being a bit of a fiddle with a combination of tilting the motor, rotating it etc to drop it down and, equally, to persuade it back in again.
I chose to repair my starter, but a complete replacement is not a bad option for the money.
 
In addition, you can always use your multimeter to check resistance between the starter motor case and battery negative - that will check you haven't got corrosion inside the negative wire that you cant necessarily see
 
Also check the low tension side, in case that's a broken connection only just touching.
Had exactly that on a truck not 5 years ago.
 
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