Colorado heating and running problems

[RL12]

Hi all,

For a few months I've had a intermittent oil temp warning light that comes on after 5mins for a few seconds. The engine tempts normal so put it down to dodgy sensor.

Most recently The front heater matrix doesn't seem to get warm anymore and now more worryingly after starting up the car it cuts out after 10seconds and needs a fair bit of cranking and throttle before it starts again.

I'm planning on changing the coolant but am a bit worried that it's more terminal than that if the starting problem isn't related to it?

Also is it pink coolant or blue coolant?

Thanks in advance, I know you're a knowledgeable bunch!

 

[Shayne]

Most of us use Toyota red coolant .

I'm guessing you have an auto and if so you might want to look at removing the rad because the bottom rots out letting coolant mix with gear oil and or visa versa . It's known issue so many just add a separate oil cooler .

 

[RL12]

Hi Shayne, tanks for the reply, I have lots of blue and pink for my other vehicles but am not familiar with red...

It is an Auto yes, and has had a separate oil cooler added already by a previous owner.

 

[StarCruiser]

There's also a thread on here entitled "cooling the 1KZT-E" that may be of some help. I hope you don't have head problems.

 

[Shayne]

Some add it for the extra cooling only but still let oil run through the bottom of the rad , if that is what's been done just bypass the rad with a tube for oil . Mind you the cooling system of the 1KZ is know to be only adequate so personally i wouldn't hesitate to buy a new rad if the old one is showing signs of deterioration .

 

[Steve H]

I didn't know the KZTE had an oil temp light, only a low level oil light unless you mean the trans light and I've read this wrong. The cut out and cranking to restart wouldn't be the pick up pipes on the tank rusted out by any chance? As for the heater matrix have you checked the valve in the engine bay is working properly and not jammed shut? Or has the cable snapped ? Only asking as you didn't mention that you have already checked all this.

 

[RL12]

I've had a read of that thread which is quite informative, hope I don't have a cracked head though?! Thread Link below if anyone is interested

https://www.landcruiserclub.net/community/threads/cooling-the-1kz-te-motor.130304/

I think the auto cooler is bypassed but I'll check, and the engine oil temp light
is next to oil level light on the bottom far right FYI

 

[Trevor]

I can’t tell from the profile pic but is that a late 1KZT or the D4D variant of the Collie?

 

[RL12]

It's the D4D.


The A/T cooler is separate from the standard rad.

 

[Shayne]

Ah the 1KD or D4D as its more commonly known is a whole different ball game and a more complicated engine . But its not known to crack heads at all .

Non specific general knowledge floating around in the abyss inside my skull say injector seals and suction control valves are more recognized issues with the 1kd either of which might shed some light on your starting problems but its a shot in the dark from me .

 

[Ben Stratford]

Ah the 1KD or D4D as its more commonly known is a whole different ball game and a more complicated engine . But its not known to crack heads at all .

Non specific general knowledge floating around in the abyss inside my skull say injector seals and suction control valves are more recognized issues with the 1kd either of which might shed some light on your starting problems but its a shot in the dark from me .

+1

 

[RL12]

Hi all, bit of diagnosis/solutions to this:
I put an in-line clear fuel filter and found that the starting problem is the diesel draining back to the tank over time. The fuel lines are quite rusty so I’ve ordered new fuel hoses which should cure it.

The thermostat was blocked up with its own disintegrated rubber (I suspect it’s due to previous ATF contamination in the coolant) so it wasn’t opening or closing properly. I’ve swapped this over for a new one and put new pink coolant in and it’s working fine now!

 

[BobMurphy]

Well done on finding a solution to the problem(s).

As well as fuel lines you may find that the steel pipes emerging from the diesel tank are rusty and have pin holes. A new pick-up is the best answer but that entails dropping the tank.

I have had to do this on mine (which has the 1KZ-Te motor so is older than yours).

A new pick-up cured my starting problems but I also replaced the fuel lines as a precaution.

Good luck with it.

Bob.

 

[RL12]

Well done on finding a solution to the problem(s).

As well as fuel lines you may find that the steel pipes emerging from the diesel tank are rusty and have pin holes. A new pick-up is the best answer but that entails dropping the tank.

I have had to do this on mine (which has the 1KZ-Te motor so is older than yours).

A new pick-up cured my starting problems but I also replaced the fuel lines as a precaution.

Good luck with it.

Bob.

Wow thanks for the detailed reply Bob, that’s a good shout to be honest, was the new fuel pick up very expensive?

 

[BobMurphy]

Was the new fuel pick up very expensive?

Back in July 2015 it was £77.10 including the VAT (from our friendly Toyota Parts Manager ) .

Part Number:
77017 (77017-60350) - BTUBE SUB-ASSY, FUEL TANK VENT

Bob.